D19 power director update

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Finally got into the power director on my D19.   The oil slingers on two of the three clutch link assemblies came off at one time and when they did they tore apart the outer parts of the shim stacks on all two of the three shim stacks in each location.   So I decided to take out all the shims and see where I originally am at before I do any measuring or adjusting(partially because I had to order a split bore gauge and it hasn't come yet).   So this is what I found out: 
Location      High Side        Neutral          Short Side
1                   .050S             .055S            .050S
                                          .045L                  
2                   .050S             .055S            .050S
                                          .045L
3                   .050S             .055S             .050S
                                          .045L                       
 
S denotes short shims and L denotes long shims.   If you add all the shims up, you get .205 in shims which is correct.  Also, there is short shims in the center where there is supposed to be long shims, another problem.    
 
The reason I pulled it open was it didn't want to "snap" into low range like it does in high range.   All the rollers seem to be ok from what I can see from the outside.   It doesn't slip in low, at least not driving around the farm, but I haven't put it under a considerable load under low to see how it performed, mostly because it didn't feel right.   
 
So besides ordering some more shims for neutral that are long shims, I also should buy some short shims as the outside of alot of these shims got beat up from the oil slingers letting go.  Basically all of the shims in the high and neutral position should be replaced.   So does anyone have a pile of shims that they wouldn't mind selling.   I know as these wear, most people need long shims to go into neutral, so I can understand not wanting to sell them, but does anyone have a pile of short shims.   I could use a bunch.   I will post some pics later of the shims that are gouged up.  


Edited by ChuckLuedtkeSEWI - 02 Jul 2012 at 6:44pm

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ChuckLuedtkeSEWI Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson, WI Points: 1826	Post Options Post Reply Quote ChuckLuedtkeSEWI Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: D19 power director update Posted: 02 Jul 2012 at 6:13pm
	Finally got into the power director on my D19. The oil slingers on two of the three clutch link assemblies came off at one time and when they did they tore apart the outer parts of the shim stacks on all two of the three shim stacks in each location. So I decided to take out all the shims and see where I originally am at before I do any measuring or adjusting(partially because I had to order a split bore gauge and it hasn't come yet). So this is what I found out: Location High Side Neutral Short Side 1 .050S .055S .050S .045L 2 .050S .055S .050S .045L 3 .050S .055S .050S .045L S denotes short shims and L denotes long shims. If you add all the shims up, you get .205 in shims which is correct. Also, there is short shims in the center where there is supposed to be long shims, another problem. The reason I pulled it open was it didn't want to "snap" into low range like it does in high range. All the rollers seem to be ok from what I can see from the outside. It doesn't slip in low, at least not driving around the farm, but I haven't put it under a considerable load under low to see how it performed, mostly because it didn't feel right. So besides ordering some more shims for neutral that are long shims, I also should buy some short shims as the outside of alot of these shims got beat up from the oil slingers letting go. Basically all of the shims in the high and neutral position should be replaced. So does anyone have a pile of shims that they wouldn't mind selling. I know as these wear, most people need long shims to go into neutral, so I can understand not wanting to sell them, but does anyone have a pile of short shims. I could use a bunch. I will post some pics later of the shims that are gouged up. Edited by ChuckLuedtkeSEWI - 02 Jul 2012 at 6:44pm
	1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221

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ChuckLuedtkeSEWI Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson, WI Points: 1826	Post Options Post Reply Quote ChuckLuedtkeSEWI Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 02 Jul 2012 at 6:35pm
	After reading the book one more time, and mic'ing a couple shims, I do have the proper amount of shims in there, yet it doesn't snap into low. I will have to reinstall all the shims and tighten things up and then engage/disengage each side and do some measuring as soon as my split bore guage shows up. Another question, seeing as the clutch starts out with .090 in each side and .025 in neutral, and I am already down to .050 in each side and up to .100 in the middle and I will probably have to do some shim shifting from low side to neutral, am I better off finding another good power director clutch assembly as this one is on it's last leg? There is a good amount of hours on this tractor(the tach doesn't work and it rolled over already, so 10,000 plus hours), so it wouldn't suprise me if the power director clutch should be replaced with one with alot less hours on it. Just wondering if I'm wasting my time with this clutch and I should buy the one from the salvage yard that I talked to last week. Also, has anyone been through a D19 power director clutch and replaced back to new, and what did it cost to get you to that? Just comparing as I was quoted $450 for a good used clutch. Just wondering if I'm better off ordering new parts for mine or if I would be better off changing out for a good used one. Edited by ChuckLuedtkeSEWI - 02 Jul 2012 at 6:53pm
	1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221

Gary in da UP Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: EUP of Mi. Points: 1885	Post Options Post Reply Quote Gary in da UP Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 02 Jul 2012 at 6:55pm
	Chuck , i have a good assortment of new shims for a D17... D19 the same shim?

ChuckLuedtkeSEWI Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson, WI Points: 1826	Post Options Post Reply Quote ChuckLuedtkeSEWI Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 02 Jul 2012 at 6:56pm
	I think so Gary. PM me your number again and I will call you on my dime and we can compare sizes of the shims.
	1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221

ChuckLuedtkeSEWI Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson, WI Points: 1826	Post Options Post Reply Quote ChuckLuedtkeSEWI Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 02 Jul 2012 at 9:08pm
	Here is a picture of the good shim and one that has a chuck missing.
	1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221

d17brown Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: farley iowa Points: 1722	Post Options Post Reply Quote d17brown Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 02 Jul 2012 at 9:12pm
	i also have some shims,how are the ramps and rollers,for going into low

ChuckLuedtkeSEWI Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson, WI Points: 1826	Post Options Post Reply Quote ChuckLuedtkeSEWI Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 02 Jul 2012 at 10:13pm
	What do you mean by the ramps. The rollers seem to be fine from what I can see through the inspection hole. I do notice though playing with it a little more is that the rear release levers have worn a light flat spot on the pivot shaft and the two keyways in that shaft have a little play in it when I try to move the lever back and forth. I suppose replacing the keys would help some in the play but I'm sure the keyways in both the shaft and the fork have some play as well.
	1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221

DonDittmar Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 15 Sep 2009 Location: MIllersburg, MI Points: 2516	Post Options Post Reply Quote DonDittmar Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 03 Jul 2012 at 10:21am
	Shims are the same between, D14, D15, D17, D19
	Experience is a fancy name for past mistakes. "Great moments are born from great opportunity" 1968 D15D,1962 D19D Also 1965 Cub Loboy and 1958 JD 720 Diesel Pony Start

ChuckLuedtkeSEWI Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson, WI Points: 1826	Post Options Post Reply Quote ChuckLuedtkeSEWI Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Jul 2012 at 12:34pm
	Well, local dealer had a big bin of shims, so I bought a pile and brought them home. After it got too hot to play outside, I put them in this morning, replacing the broken shims with good ones and replacing the short shims in the middle with long shims. I assume the shims should be pushed all the way in. They weren't before, and that's why I think they got messed up when the oil slingers let go. I pushed them all the way in. After tightening it all up and measuring with my split bore guage that came in the mail, High range is good with about .045 all the way around. The low side though has only about .007 all the way around. Right now there is .055 left in the low side, so I will have to remove .040 of shims and put in neutral, leaving only .015 left in the low side. So I need to go back tomorrow and pick up some more long shims, and then I'll adjust it again and see where I'm at. Looks like the low side is about worn out so I will probably be getting a used clutch in the future and putting it on the shelf for down the road. I will probably get some new keys for the worn keyways so hopefully that will take some of the slop out of the lever as well. And Happy Independence Day to everyone!! Edited by ChuckLuedtkeSEWI - 04 Jul 2012 at 12:36pm
	1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221

d17brown Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: farley iowa Points: 1722	Post Options Post Reply Quote d17brown Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Jul 2012 at 6:03pm
	well there is a plate on the clutch pack that has grooves in it that are referred to as ramps, when the groove wore and no ramp for the roller to go over you will loose the snap, the shims will make it drive or not and roller and ramps will make it snap and stayu in place

ChuckLuedtkeSEWI Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson, WI Points: 1826	Post Options Post Reply Quote ChuckLuedtkeSEWI Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Jul 2012 at 10:58pm
	Ok, thanks for the explanation. I was thinking it wasnt' snapping because it is worn, which still may be the case. I guess the only way to inspect that ramp is when you have it apart, correct?
	1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221