D17 SERIES IV BRAKES

If you don't already have, pick up a copy of the shop manual. The best one is a copy of the actual manual the dealership mechanics used. An I&T manual is far better than nothing.

I have an early D17 shop manual that I got from Jens Sales. It's a scan of an original A-C manual. Not the clearest pics, but it has everything I need to know.

"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford

Have done a couple now. Currently doing them on my 185 which are identical.

Only do one side at a time. Remove the wheel, fender and seat, unhook the hydraulic lift cylinder and get it out of the way, remove the final drive with a cherry picker (I use an engine hoist), cut the brake bands on the top pin and get them out of there. Getting that top pin out can be tricky - some are pretty easy, some are not. When everything is out, I use a vacuum to suck up all the dust and debris in the cavity - a good opportunity to make sure the brake rod adjustment is not rusted or seized. I also change the bearing carrier O ring and seal while I am in there.

When putting everything back together, you will have to measure the tolerances between the brake drum and the anchor and shim it accordingly. The Allis service manual gives the acceptable range. It is the most important part of the installation. As far as new parts needed: shoes, drum facing, drum springs, shoe springs, top pin, bearing carrier O ring and oil seal. You might also need new balls for the drum - clean and inspect the old ones, they must be smooth and round. No rough or flat spots.

It can be a bit overwhelming the first time you do it, just take your time and make sure you have the tractor well supported - no cinder blocks!

'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080

Hydraulic console doesn't need to be removed. Disconnect some of the lower linkages and prop it up an inch or two with a stick from the platform. No need to touch any of the hydraulic lines except maybe the one on the lift cylinders.

I have a new service manual and operators manual. they show the old style brakes on earlier 17's, the ones where you do don't have to pull any axle. it seems to me like it's a great big secret on how to do anything to and Allis. if I knew how to I would film it and put it up but have no idea how to. the one I'm working on is a serial 88963. I know tractor data says they only made something like 86000 something but this is 88963

Here is a scan of the two pages on the brake from a 170 manual. I believe it may help you.

170_brake.pdf

well jim.me you are absolutely correct it helps 100% plus now I know how to deal the with brake. not sure yet about pulling axle. never did it before.
txs Jim.me

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nKIJNiCH6p8&t=58s

Edited by HoughMade - 12 Apr 2019 at 1:27pm

1951 B

sounds like a good idea I probably would not have thought of it txs.

JIM,ME!!!! that's exactly what I needed to see. going to attack the beast soon as it warms up around here. thank you JIM.ME and everyone else txs.

I'll be looking txs

snakefoot wrote:

I'm doing the LEFT brake (the right brake is fine) because when you push the pedal and watch, the rivets on the brake shoe pop up so I know the brake lining is to thin. also don't want to screw up the drum.

If the one brake needs replacing, chances are the other one is not far behind (even though you say it is fine). I would do the other side while I am at it.

'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080

yes that's true the one in the video I believe is a series 2 or3 where you need not have to pull axle to change the brake shoes. txs

Replace item 2, Retraction Spring while you're in there.

The critical dimension, and procedure ... (we're looking at the LEFT side here)

I made a lifting bracket that bolts to the final drive and makes the whole assembly balanced when taking it out and putting it back in. The axle has to be lined up for it to slide together. If you want the dimensions and/or pic of the bracket , let me know

gatz

Edited by Gatz in NE - 13 Apr 2019 at 6:32pm

Lift Bracket;

Drawing;

The plate can be flame-cut. It can easily be 3/8 thick.

The 1" x 1 1/2" was rectangular tubing; not solid.

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