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Hunt4Allis 
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 Posted: 25 Mar 2020 at 6:42pm |
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It's no show tractor, definitely has work clothes on😁
It does look rough, but at least there's not a quarter to a half-inch of gunk covering the whole thing anymore.
It makes me laugh because it's kind of like other guys at work that have 60 to $80,000 trucks that never even used the four-wheel drive or tow anything or even put mulch in the bed (a waste, imo)
I'm more concerned with how well it operates not looking for a showpiece that never leaves the concrete floor of someone's shop...
Thanks Matt 👍
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FREEDGUY
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Joined: 15 Apr 2017
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Posted: 25 Mar 2020 at 6:48pm |
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Just saying that if the carb is that oily on the outside of "it", maybe you've got some leaking seals/ gaskets elsewhere that might make a carb rebuild "moot"?
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 25 Mar 2020 at 6:58pm |
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Next project maybe,
For now my curiosity is in fixing/ cleaning carb to run like it did before it got clogged with bugs.
One thing at a time...
They used a rubber hose that is 6" long to connect to carb instead of running the steel gas line the whole way from bowl to carb( which I'm sure has been leaking a long time creating a wet exterior all the time letting it collect 60 years of dust and dirt on it)
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 25 Mar 2020 at 9:54pm |
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Not sure about this but I think there is a screen inside the 90deg elbow on the carb. Leave that fitting screwed into it to turn it out or you may distort it. I guess you know to remove tube above power screw(inside)to get bowl off?
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 26 Mar 2020 at 7:01am |
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Okay so you're saying the 90-degree elbow that the gas line attaches to has a screen before the carburetor? No I am not sure what you are talking about with the screw to get to the bowl?
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 26 Mar 2020 at 8:07am |
 Hunt4Allis wrote:
No I am not sure what you are talking about with the screw to get to the bowl? |
Some TSX carbs have the power metering screw come in from the top half and are long and extend into the bottom half. This carb has the power metering screw in the bottom 'front' side of the bowl and does not interfere with splitting the halves. Here is a Marv Schebler PDF file that may come in handy. http://fergusontractors.org/nfs/wp-content/uploads/technical-articles/Carburetor-Information.pdf
Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 26 Mar 2020 at 8:16am
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 26 Mar 2020 at 8:17am |
Matt, Your on your way to a good working clean carb! Good job. These are good projects and I am sure your tractor will probably run better too. These may or may not have a screen at the carb entrance? Most of mine have not, but i have not done one of these carbs like you have. Looking forward to following your work. Good pictures of your progress too! Thanks. Good pictures prompt more good questions and we can all learn some things! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 26 Mar 2020 at 9:50am |
Hunt4Allis wrote:
Okay so you're saying the 90-degree elbow that the gas line attaches to has a screen before the carburetor? No I am not sure what you are talking about with the screw to get to the bowl? |
Some do have the screen. You won't know until you remove the fitting. Been a long time since had mine apart but I thought it had the tube behind that external power screw...like a Briggs &Stratton.
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WF owner
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Posted: 26 Mar 2020 at 10:42am |
I think this is the elbow/screen Steve M C/IL is talking about:
Has anyone used this screen that goes fits snugly into the top of the sediment bowl assembly, inside the gas tank? I just got a couple. I'm hoping they will help the plugging the inlet of the sediment bowl on a mildly dirty tank.
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 26 Mar 2020 at 1:29pm |
I use a similar fuel tank filter in my Model A Fords. Works fine there - doesn't fit the sed bowls on my AC tractors, though. Haven't used the elbow version.
Dave
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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CTuckerNWIL
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Posted: 27 Mar 2020 at 7:43am |
SteveM C/IL wrote:
Been a long time since had mine apart but I thought it had the tube behind that external power screw...like a Briggs &Stratton. |
It does have a 'tube' behind the 'external power screw' but that screw is on the bottom front of the bowl, not the top, and doesn't interfere with splitting the carb in half. If the power adjust needle is on top, the needle goes way down into the bottom and has to be removed to split it. Pic 1 below. The TSX B has the power metering screw on top and has to be removed first. Pic 2 The TSX C has the power metering screw on the bottom and does not have to be removed for disassembly. 
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 27 Mar 2020 at 3:24pm |
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Ok,
I have a question about one of the floats in my carburetor was bent when I disassembled it (not the arms that hold the floats but the actual float is bent in, in other words it does not look the same as the other side and I'm wondering how do I check the floats to make sure they're not damaged or allowing gas to get inside of them?
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 27 Mar 2020 at 4:28pm |
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Hey Matt - submerge the float in a bucket of water. Should try to float. If you see air bubbles, it's got a hole somewhere.
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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WF owner
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Posted: 27 Mar 2020 at 4:45pm |
Dave(inMA) wrote:
Hey Matt - submerge the float in a bucket of water. Should try to float. If you see air bubbles, it's got a hole somewhere. |
....and after doing that for several minutes, you should be able to hear water moving inside it, when you shake it.
Edited by WF owner - 27 Mar 2020 at 4:46pm
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Ed (Ont)
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Posted: 27 Mar 2020 at 5:19pm |
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Submerge it in a small container of gasoline. Gas will leak into it quicker than water if it has small leak. Water may not leak where gas will.
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Alberta Phil
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Posted: 27 Mar 2020 at 7:31pm |
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I just submerge them in a small container of warm water. The expanding air will come out of any bad seams or pin holes and you will see the bubbles
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 28 Mar 2020 at 7:36am |
Before and after Got her all cleaned up/ rebuilt with new carb kit and ready to hook back up and give it a go🤞   There were a lot of the small ports that were closed off completely and a lot of junk pretty much everywhere inside of the carb, I don't think it's ever been cleaned since manufactured in 1959 so it always feels good to do your best at getting something back to decent condition.
Edited by Hunt4Allis - 28 Mar 2020 at 7:38am
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 28 Mar 2020 at 7:58am |
Matt, That is looking a lot better! Hope the D17 runs better for you too! Thanks for the updates on the carb rebuild. Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 28 Mar 2020 at 8:13am |
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Yup, thanks
I'm having trouble finding carb setting for lower main adjust needle screw in/out?
I did adjust / bend float where directions showed to a measurement of 1/4" between float and gasket
Edited by Hunt4Allis - 28 Mar 2020 at 8:16am
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 28 Mar 2020 at 10:12am |
Matt, I'm having the same challenge with the carb on my WD45. It's likely a partly blocked passageway or jet in my case. Could be the same with your D17 just from running it as the crud moves around inside the carb. It can take several cleanings to get all the passageways cleaned out. One thing to try is submerging the two halves in carb cleaning fluid - I think you can still buy it - for a day or so. Then blow every passageway dry. Also try gently reaming out any passageway you can get a reamer into. I use a light paperclip - unbend it, then shape it to get into passageways.
One other thing that can happen. In some of these old carbs, some of the needle screws tighten against seats that are built into the casting. Those seats can be damaged by overtightening, crud buildup, etc. If that happens, adjusting them can be frustrating - adjusting the needle screw doesn't seem to change much.
HTH Dave
Edited by Dave(inMA) - 28 Mar 2020 at 10:13am
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 28 Mar 2020 at 11:11am |
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Yep all cleaned now and reassemble it yesterday but don't know where to set main jet needle( rich/ lean setting I believe?)
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 28 Mar 2020 at 11:35am |
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Ah. I think I misunderstood your earlier question. Try closing it - gently - all the way. Then open 1.5 turns and try that. Adjust from there.
Edited by Dave(inMA) - 28 Mar 2020 at 11:45am
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 28 Mar 2020 at 1:00pm |
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Oh, I know the idle adjust screw is all the way in then out one to one-and-a-half turns but did not know that the main jet bottom screw on the very bottom of the carburetor was the same?
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 28 Mar 2020 at 1:14pm |
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I'm no expert, Matt, but my understanding of these carbs is to start with 1.5 turns out on the idle and main and tweak from there. You want the engine warmed up. Tweak with engine not at idle - you want the high speed circuit engaged.
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 28 Mar 2020 at 2:48pm |
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Well, Yahoo! D-17 is up and running again and actually idles all the way down to its lowest setting on the steering column lever and stays idling very low speed... Thanks to all who gave me information on getting this fixed 👍
It does however seem to have a misfire about every 10 seconds or so probably needs new components in the timing I'm guessing plugs wires etc...
Man it feels great to know that if I need it to clean up the pasture with the rear blade now and grade our driveway, I have a tractor that at least starts and runs like it should( for the most part)
Thanks Matt
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Dave(inMA)
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Posted: 28 Mar 2020 at 4:46pm |
Well, good to hear, Matt! About your misfire...I have a similar thing with my WD45. Could be a valve not set properly or wobble in the distributor shaft or ??? Have you worked it hard recently? Maybe it just needs to be pushed hard for a few hours.
Dave
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WC, CA, D14, WD45
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Hunt4Allis
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Posted: 28 Mar 2020 at 5:53pm |
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Very well a valve needed to be set correctly.
I bought this tractor last Summer and the only thing I've done with it so far is cut our three acre hay field with a 80t sickle mower that I fixed up, so no I have not really run it very hard at all and while I was using it to sickle mower it was spittering and sputtering so bad that I almost couldn't finish the field (hopefully I've got that issue taking care of because it was mostly an issue when it was trying to go up a hill under load)
Edited by Hunt4Allis - 28 Mar 2020 at 5:56pm
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 28 Mar 2020 at 6:02pm |
Matt, Good job getting the tractor running with the rebuilt carb! Just one of the many things to keep these old tractors functioning! Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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