D17 rotor shaft not?

Well, if you had 2, or more, plug wires crossed, it would have an obvious continuous severe miss!  (or 2)  So if you got it started and somewhat smoothed out by rotating the distributor, you probably got the wires hooked up right.  

Edited by Tbone95 - 21 Jul 2022 at 7:56am

steve(ill) wrote: dont set it by ear...  --Rotate until you feel air pressure on #1 --continue to rotate until you have the FRONT PULLEY SET SCREW straight DOWN --flywheel should be at the TDC mark no --take the cap off the distributor.. --rotate the distributor SHAFT and watch the point open .020 inch at the MAX CAM point. --loosen the lock bolts and rotate the distributor until the point JUST STARTS TO OPEN (not turning the SHAFT-- only the distributor CASE). --tighten the lock down bolts --rotate the rotor SHAFT by hand and see that it moves free, advances, and the point opens up .020 inch --this is the SHAFT position ( if you were not holding it open) when you are on the FIRE mark on flywheel Okay I will try all this. I hope I can see the front pulley set screw from underneath but I'm doubtful. If I rotate distributor shaft to watch The point open that the max cam point I will lose my TDC mark correct? Rotating the rotor shaft by hand means that I need to do this slowly by pushing in on the fan belt and rotating the engine over correct? What does this is the shaft position if you're not holding it open mean? It's a bit confusing because I read that the only marks on this flywheel are TDC and either a 25 or 30 which I'm guessing are degrees before top dead center?

The timing marks on the flywheel are hard to see when things are clean.If rusty crusty you will struggle seeing them. I don't know if it would work but maybe you could push a stick in the hole while running and kinda knock the debris off enough to see the mark. It's helpful to paint line white but don't know how you could do that with things assembled.

So it will start easily and idle all the way down( running this way won't hurt anything correct - only to try and rub rust off with stick for 10-15 second)

you need to have the timing CORRECT at TDC so you can eliminate that as any problem..

Edited by steve(ill) - 21 Jul 2022 at 1:12pm

Edited by steve(ill) - 21 Jul 2022 at 1:10pm

steve(ill) wrote: HUNT......... maybe we should look at the actual PARTS so we are not confusing the CAP with the ROTOR.... You should be able to wiggle the center ROTOR back and forth 15 degrees... the CAP is indexed to the housing and will not rotate... the shaft is connected by gears and will not rotate...

There is a metal plate below black plastic dust cover that the condenser is strapped to along with the point that rides on lobes machined onto vertical distributor shaft.are these weights below that metal plate?

Edited by Hunt4Allis - 21 Jul 2022 at 11:54am

I have not looked below metal plate that the condenser and points are mounted to.
I will try and redo my TDC, with looking for set screw at 6 o'clockon pulley at bottom of engine first, then move on to these...( Wish AC would have made a bigger viewing hole to see TDC...
From other post and my manual I may only have a "TDC" and either a 25 or 30 mark since it's a 1959 model?
When it started and ran I was surprised that the throttle response was so bad( was not like this before) thanks for your help,more to come!

Edited by Hunt4Allis - 21 Jul 2022 at 12:13pm

All info is greatly appreciated 👍
It helps to know the workings of these as I have 3(1950-B,1953-ca,1959-d17)that I can apply more knowledge to these in the future! Thanks fellas

clean it good with sand paper or wire brush and shoot a little white or yellow paint in a 2 inch circle with TDC in the center..... for NEXT TIME. 

If you got the timing set ( point starts to open) at TDC..... then yes, the next step is to see if the ADVANCE works properly... If you have a timing light, you can use it and look at the flywheel and should see the FIRE mark when your up above 1500 RPM or so.... Might help to rotate the crank by hand and stop 30 degrees early ... and CLEAN the FIRE mark first. ........ once you see the FIRE mark, you know the ADVANCE is working OK.

Take a 6 inch long piece of sandpaper or emery cloth and narrow it up and shove it in the timing hole with a rod or screwdriver while the engine idles and clean the whole flywheel in seconds.

When people say they use a timing light and if you can see the fire or 25 or 30 degrees before center mark
, Wouldn't I see my white line also from my center mark along with let's say if I painted the 25 or 30° before center mark yellow? I guess I need a little more detail on what to look for with a timing light...

I guess I figured that, but if I have them marked respectively with white marker paint on the TDC line and the 25, 30, fire mark(whichever one I have) with yellow does the timing light still work or am I going to see a blur because of the white and yellow?
I guess once I get rid of the white line with Emery cloth once I'm happy with the initial setup maybe the 25, 30, fire Mark will be more easily seen after it's cleaned up? (I'm guessing I should use 120 grit or finer so that I do not just put heavy scratches all the way around the flywheel)?
After reading the manual more I guess I'm confused why the timing light is necessary since in the book it has an automatic advance built into the distributor (using the weights and springs below the condensing/points plate)?
The manual says it's been proven that this engine runs best at 25°before top dead center I believe at 1800 RPM. I wish I could find a in good condition used tachometer gauge and cable for this 1959 gas series 1 so I knew what RPM I was running... My cable is snapped off internally so it could just need a new cable but I don't know how to check that gauge otherwise? Could I hook a battery drill up to it and see if the needle moves?

Without a tach I have no idea what RPM I'm running at at wide Open throttle, it sounds like it does not matter as long as it's WOT...