D17 power diverter?

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   Hi all,

I fired up my D17 after it sat for about a year. It ran fine, but when 
in gear when i let the foot clutch out, it only moved a small distance. I
 shut it down, checked the trans fluid level and refilled it. I was able
 to get it to drive a bit, and then parked it again. After a month, with
 good fluid levels, I started it up again but it wouldn't move. With the
 foot clutch in, when I put it in gear it "bumps" like normal, but when 
the clutch comes out it doesn't move. If I move the Power diverter lever
 nothing happens; as in there isn't resistance when it moves. The PTO 
will run when I let the foot clutch out. Any thoughts on the hand 
clutch? Would I go in from the side cover or the trans shift cover to 
inspect it?

Thanks, Happy New Year!

Peter

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75aztec Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 26 Apr 2010 Points: 10	Post Options Post Reply Quote 75aztec Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: D17 power diverter? Posted: 01 Jan 2016 at 10:23pm
	Hi all, I fired up my D17 after it sat for about a year. It ran fine, but when in gear when i let the foot clutch out, it only moved a small distance. I shut it down, checked the trans fluid level and refilled it. I was able to get it to drive a bit, and then parked it again. After a month, with good fluid levels, I started it up again but it wouldn't move. With the foot clutch in, when I put it in gear it "bumps" like normal, but when the clutch comes out it doesn't move. If I move the Power diverter lever nothing happens; as in there isn't resistance when it moves. The PTO will run when I let the foot clutch out. Any thoughts on the hand clutch? Would I go in from the side cover or the trans shift cover to inspect it? Thanks, Happy New Year! Peter

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MACK Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664	Post Options Post Reply Quote MACK Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 02 Jan 2016 at 7:02am
	Sounds like setscrew on lever or inside has backed out. MACK

Dan73 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Location: United States Points: 6061	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dan73 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 02 Jan 2016 at 7:37am
	I was thinking the same thing as Mack. Mark the shaft for the power direct clutch and see if it is turning when you turn move the lever.

75aztec Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 26 Apr 2010 Points: 10	Post Options Post Reply Quote 75aztec Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 02 Jan 2016 at 10:10pm
	Hi guys, Thanks for the reply. Yes. the shaft that the diverter lever connects to turns with the lever. It acts like the diverter side of the clutch is disengaged and stuck. The lever has excessive rear travel too. When I pull it back it comes WAY back. Thanks again. Peter

Dan73 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Location: United States Points: 6061	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dan73 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 02 Jan 2016 at 10:20pm
	You would have to drain the oil and open the side cover. Look it up in the service manual first. That lever moves a fork on the inside of the torque tube which has two wood drift keys holding it to the shaft. If the lever and shaft turn but the fork isn't moving the keys might have fallen out. But I don't know how that would happen. I would mark the shaft on the far side of the tractor from the handle and visually make sure it is really turning before opening the tractor. If you open up the side cover and the fork moves the clutch pack is slipping you can try adjusting it before you resort to splitting the tractor and rebuilding the clutch pack. Edited by Dan73 - 02 Jan 2016 at 10:21pm

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 22825	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 03 Jan 2016 at 5:51am
	So many original posters don't give enough information. How OLD of a D-17 is this???? There is a setscrew on the bottom of the hand lever where you can see it. There also might be an internal setscrew if the tractor is OLD enough. Anything series 3 or 4 will have half-moon keys inside and they can't really fall out of place on their own. The prior to series 3 will have a setscrew inside just like the one outside on the bottom of the lever, and the access would be thru the square cover on the right side.

75aztec Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 26 Apr 2010 Points: 10	Post Options Post Reply Quote 75aztec Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Jan 2016 at 1:09pm
	Hi again, This D-17 appears to be a 1965 model. I recall having the diverter handle being hard to move in the past and assumed it was from lack of use. I will open the side and take a look when I can and will report back. In the mean time, I am dealing with what looks to be a head gasket issue with my other D-17, a 1967 model. I'll also let you know how that goes. Thanks again, Peter

Dan73 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 04 Jun 2015 Location: United States Points: 6061	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dan73 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Jan 2016 at 1:14pm
	Peter inspect the head bolts very carefully if you pull them out before you attempt to reuse them. I just went through 2 head gaskets on my d15 before I realized I need to get new bolts from ARP. The old ones just wouldn't hold torque any more.

DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 22825	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Jan 2016 at 2:01pm
	A 1965 or 1967 model D-17 (if that is what they are) makes them a Series 4 model......are you sure about the year?? Series 4 is the hydraulic lever to the right of the seat.

75aztec Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 26 Apr 2010 Points: 10	Post Options Post Reply Quote 75aztec Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 04 Jan 2016 at 11:30pm
	Hi, Yes, the 1965 is a narrow front and the '67 is a wide front. Both are D-17 Series IVs with the lever on the right. I have had both for about 20 years. I converted both to Genesee Electronic ignition, which is a HUGE improvement in starting and running. These are the first real issue I have had with either machine other than maintenance, batteries, hydraulic leaks, etc. Unfortunately both problems happened at the same time. Thanks again, this is a great forum. Very helpful. Peter

75aztec Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 26 Apr 2010 Points: 10	Post Options Post Reply Quote 75aztec Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 Jan 2016 at 11:49pm
	Hi again, Well I got my other D17 running tonight. Started with a head gasket. Well if you pull the head, you might as well change the thermostat and hoses, with them off and the head off, might as well have the head redone, new valves, springs, guides, etc. And the belts don't look so hot so better replace them. And flush the rad and notice that it's been patched a few times, but clean the fins and put it back on anyway. Get everything set and fire it up. Wipe off all the fresh anti-freeze that's now blowing out of the rad everywhere, drain the system, order the new rad. Just got it installed and fired up. Everything seems fine, but I think I have an airlock in the system because the lower hose stayed cool while the upper heated up. both sides of the thermostat housing got hot, so that seems to be working. I'll top it off with coolant in the morning and try again. Other than that it runs great. And while your at it, probably due for an oil and filter change. Oh, and the hydraulic filter too...and did I mention the welds on the muffler split? So that's new... Gotta love old tractors. Two most expensive phrases in English are, "While you're at it.." and "Might as well..."