d17 power director adjustment

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   ive been working on restoring a d17 series 1 for a FFA project. I am at the power director and was reading up on how to adjust the low and high side. When you engage the power director lever back it easy to pull and on the director the clutch moves toward the engine. When i disengage it it makes a poping sound really loud and also the same for the high side when the clutch is pushed toward the rear of the tractor and disengaged. i was wondering if anyone has adjusted them before. i see that theres shims that are marked with 010 and 012 . i took out 012 on both sides of the director all the way around. do i need to add in the middle? did i remove to much shim? Our do I need to add shims?  

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OrangePowerFranzen Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 05 Mar 2011 Location: nashua Points: 228	Post Options Post Reply Quote OrangePowerFranzen Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: d17 power director adjustment Posted: 17 Mar 2012 at 10:06pm
	ive been working on restoring a d17 series 1 for a FFA project. I am at the power director and was reading up on how to adjust the low and high side. When you engage the power director lever back it easy to pull and on the director the clutch moves toward the engine. When i disengage it it makes a poping sound really loud and also the same for the high side when the clutch is pushed toward the rear of the tractor and disengaged. i was wondering if anyone has adjusted them before. i see that theres shims that are marked with 010 and 012 . i took out 012 on both sides of the director all the way around. do i need to add in the middle? did i remove to much shim? Our do I need to add shims?

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DrAllis Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21485	Post Options Post Reply Quote DrAllis Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 Mar 2012 at 6:26am
	There are three shim stacks (at each of three locations). The rear stack is for high range.....the front stack if for low range.....the middle stack (which has the LONG shims) is for neutral. If you aren't having any issues with the way the clutch is working, you probably shouldn't even be in there. If the low range effort to pull the lever rearward is a little soft, pull out a .010" or a .012" from the front stack location and do it at all THREE places around the clutch. Then, whatever you have removed (.010" or .012" or any combination) you must replace that thickness into the neutral shim position with a CORRECT LONG SHIM. This means you need to buy long shims to do the job correctly regardless of what anyone else comes on here and says. Long shims must be used in the center location to keep the center plates from warping when the clutch is engaged. Just for your information, if you removed all shims from each of the three stack locations and added them up, the total is supposed to be .205". If it isn't, someone else has been in there before and couldn't count to 205. Also, shimming the clutch MORE than is really needed (so more effort is required to engage it) just wears out the roller linkage and then promotes lever jump-out problems.