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Too Tall 
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Joined: 18 Sep 2016
Location: Illinois
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 Topic: D17 late series IV weak clutch
Posted: 27 Nov 2016 at 4:15pm |
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My late model IV clutch is weak. I understand there is no way to adjust it, right? Any tips on splitting it and replacing the clutch is appreciated. I do not have splitting stands. Thanks
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 27 Nov 2016 at 4:57pm |
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So, what do you have for tooling?? A cherry picker?? an overhead hoist?? a long floor jack ?? Does the tractor have a loader?? Is it a wide front??
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Too Tall
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Posted: 27 Nov 2016 at 5:16pm |
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I do have a cherry picker. It does have a loader and a wide front. I would have the tools to do it myself or access to any specialty tools. Thanks
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EPALLIS
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Location: Illinois
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Posted: 27 Nov 2016 at 5:24pm |
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A "weak" clutch?! Sorry, I'm not well versed on that term. I thought they either worked or they didn't. Does "weak" mean it sort of works? Thanks.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 27 Nov 2016 at 5:40pm |
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Leave loader on and jack underneath each vertical loader tower. Roll a long floor jack underneath from the rear and jack up against the hydraulic sump and roll the rear away from the front, after disconnecting axle brackets to the loader. 3 guys....one on each rear wheel and one pulling/ steering the floor jack. This is best on concrete. Cherry picker can go over the front and connect to all four valve cover stud nuts, by making an angle iron to attach to all four and then a chain. This means remove the loader and maybe the radiator depending on cherry picker height.
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DSeries4
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Location: Ontario, Canada
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Posted: 27 Nov 2016 at 5:47pm |
 EPALLIS wrote:
A "weak" clutch?! Sorry, I'm not well versed on that term. I thought they either worked or they didn't. Does "weak" mean it sort of works? Thanks. |
Yep, if it is weak it is not going to get any better. No special tools required. It's a pretty easy job, but since you have a loader it will be a bit more complicated (personally I would take it off). Split the tractor behind the engine, I use blocks of wood to support the torque tube, chock the back wheels, pull the front end carefully and then you will have access to everything. While you are in there, check your flywheel for cracks, check for leaks from your rear main seal, replace throwout bearing at the same time. I also like to replace the seal at the front of the torque tube. Just take your time and be safe.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Don(MO)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Bates City MO.
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Posted: 27 Nov 2016 at 6:03pm |
Here's a shot of my angle iron bracket, works nice with three bolt holes on top. 
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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old farmer
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Joined: 12 Oct 2011
Location: Sturgis, Mich
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Posted: 27 Nov 2016 at 7:01pm |
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We also reface the flywheel clutch surface to make sure everything is back to spec's. Make sure that depth is correct, might have to take some off the top surface.
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Rick
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Jonesburg,Mo.
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Posted: 27 Nov 2016 at 7:13pm |
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The flywheel depth is 1.437 from the top lip to the flywheel face. I sent you a PM. Rick
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MACK
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Posted: 28 Nov 2016 at 8:22am |
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Also replace piolet bearing
. MACK
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Dan73
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Posted: 28 Nov 2016 at 8:43am |
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I will be the Devils advocate for a moment. How does the motor run? I would do a compression test before splitting the tractor. Depending on how you plan on using the tractor it might be a good tune to do some motor work. I would want to know before I split it if it needs motor work because it is no fun to put it all back together and be back there splitting it again inside of a year I'd you ask me. The two things that come to mind is a general compression test and to check the oil pressure as the oil pump is right there when you split the tractor.
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Dave H
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Posted: 28 Nov 2016 at 11:27am |
EPALLIS wrote:
A "weak" clutch?! Sorry, I'm not well versed on that term. I thought they either worked or they didn't. Does "weak" mean it sort of works? Thanks. |
I don't know what a weak clutch is either. Does it have free play and slips under load. Just trying to give a weak clutch some definition?
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Too Tall
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Posted: 28 Nov 2016 at 12:02pm |
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By weak I mean it slips. For example, I have to shift from 4th to 3rd gear going up a hill empty on the road. Also am down to low first gear to do any moderate loader work. As far as the motor goes, I tuned it up and it works OK for what I use it for. It sure could use a overhaul because it has 7000 hours on it! I just can't afford it right now.
Thanks for the PM Rick I am interested and will get back to you.
Could anyone give me a ball park est. on labor cost to hire it done if I furnish the parts. Thanks.
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Allis dave
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Posted: 28 Nov 2016 at 2:02pm |
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Just so you know. Rick has excellent parts and prices. I would highly recommend.
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Dan73
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Posted: 28 Nov 2016 at 2:46pm |
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I am by no means an expert but I would think one days labor by the time you get it split and back together. This seems to take about that long with 2 people when I have split my d17 and d15.
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