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D17 IV power steering |
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Adam Stratton ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: SW MO Points: 1363 |
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Im working on a new to me d17 series 4. The tach shows 9900 hours. It has clearly done some work in its day. It has a loader on it also. It had been sitting, and the breather cap was broke off the reservoir in the pedestal in front of the radiator. It runs well, but I really havent got a chance to drive it much because it is nearly impossible to steer. Even when i use the loader to take most of the weight off the front end. I used hydraulic oil to flush the old watery gunk out and still have the hydraulic oil in it. It has the barnes pump on it, the belt is not slipping. I took the check valve out and the ball has a ring around it where it has been settled in the spring, but otherwise seems good. I tightened it up as tight as i could. What should my next step be? Thanks in advance.
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MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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If it has had water in it long, I would pull steering assembly out, completely disassemble and clean it. Most likely problem is in control valve. Replace all seals, rings, and readjust. MACK
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Adam Stratton ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: SW MO Points: 1363 |
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I was afraid of something like that. Is there a good way to check the pressure on the pump? If so, how much pressure should it put out? The steering does function and will turn as it should, just takes a lot of man power to make it happen.
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Driverdan ![]() Bronze Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 21 Feb 2015 Location: Owego,NY Points: 175 |
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Not sure if series 4 problem is same as my series 1 problem (I have pump run off timing gear behind distributor and no belt), but symptoms are same. Dr.Allis gave instruction to bleed unit (which fixed problem). Find largest line coming off steering pump, and loosen nut..then blow low pressure air in filler opening in front of radiator, when oil comes out by loosened nut.. then tighten nut..worked for me, I hope it may help you...Dan
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Gary Burnett ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Virginia Points: 3093 |
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Might want to check out the condition of the spindles that may be the source of the hard steering.
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DSeries4 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7515 |
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Series IV power steering pump is completely different than Series 1.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '63 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Adam Stratton ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: SW MO Points: 1363 |
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Thanks for the advice. The zerks were gone in the spindles and full of crud. I cleaned them out and pumped them full. Did some more work on the loader and when i lift the front end off the ground the steering works perfectly, just doesnt work worth anything with weight on it. I am going to put a pressure gauge on the main output line next and see what that tells me unless someone advises against that test
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wade89 ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 12 Feb 2018 Location: Northern MN Points: 221 |
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I have the same issue going on right now with the barnes pump that sticks out the back of the generator.
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JC-WI ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: wisconsin Points: 34353 |
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Must be a D15/17 diesel... to have a PS pump on the back of the generator. Had a 170 that the spindles were so tight, that you couldn't turn the wheels very far... but it was rust in there and after much time I got both cleaned out and greased and then they worked as they should. I have always wondered how they got that bad. It was that way when I got it. On a D19, the pump was leaking air and caused low pressure and put new bearings and seals in, and had the end caps machined smooth. It worked fine after that. |
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that." |
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Adam Stratton ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: SW MO Points: 1363 |
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I took the line loose that goes to the control valve and attached a 5k pressure gauge. Started up the tractor and the needle would just barely flicker, switched to a 1k gauge and only had a trickle of oil in the line. Needle would just barely flicker on 1k gauge also. Unhooked gauge so line was open, and would only occasionally spit some oil. I revved up the motor and had lots of oil flow, but dropped off at an idle. Hooked the gauge back up, revved it up, and still only could get an occasional movement on the gauge.
Whats my next step? I see there are shims listed in the parts book. Should I tear into the pump or ?? Thanks
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MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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Did you T into line or dead end line with gauge?
I would take pump apart if you was dead ending line with gauge. MACK |
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Adam Stratton ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: SW MO Points: 1363 |
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I dead ended to the gauge. Tightening and loosing the relief plug didnt make any difference. I will tear down the pump and see what i find. Thanks
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Adam Stratton ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: SW MO Points: 1363 |
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Took the pump apart and it seems to have eaten several of the needles from the bearings and 2.5 out of 4 snap rings and really chewed up the housing. So, I'm on the hunt for a used one if anyone has one laying around. Ive got some various automotive ps pumps, but would rather not cobble things up too much if I could help it, and most of them have 2 lines instead of 3. I know one line on the origial is suction, and one goes to the control valve, but is the other essentially a bypass back to the reservoir? Thanks in advance
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MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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It is return from relief valve. MACK
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