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donais 
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Joined: 29 Dec 2011
Location: Ramona Ca
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 Topic: d17 injectors
Posted: 17 Jan 2012 at 8:15pm |
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on the d17 s.3 diesel i took out one injector it has 3 copper washers on it the book says replace THE washer when removed.... should there ever be 3 on there? or should i make sure there is only one...thanks jon
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j.w.freck
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Joined: 16 Sep 2009
Location: karnack texas
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Posted: 17 Jan 2012 at 8:16pm |
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1only
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donais
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Location: Ramona Ca
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Posted: 17 Jan 2012 at 8:18pm |
i guess i get to check them all now.. no clearance problems? and might it run a little better?
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ChuckLuedtkeSEWI
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Location: Jackson, WI
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Posted: 17 Jan 2012 at 8:18pm |
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On my 45 diesel, there is only one washer per injector. I don't know why there would be three on one of them; did all three fit on the end of the tip? I would think that if it was past the end of the tip, it would have a hard time getting that to seal. I would pull the other injectors as well and see how many are on each one. Unless someone put new washers on twice and never removed the old ones. They can be stubborn to get out sometimes.
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1955 WD45 diesel 203322 was my dad's tractor, 1966 D15 23530, 1961 HD3 Crawler 1918, 1966 D17 IV 83495, 1937 WC 41255, 1962 D19 6221
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donais
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Location: Ramona Ca
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Posted: 17 Jan 2012 at 8:29pm |
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about a quarter inch hanging out of the end on the first one... im thinking the old ones got all carbony and they just put new ones on
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donais
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Posted: 18 Jan 2012 at 1:27pm |
i think i know why the injectors have 3 washers.. they might not be the right ones. The injectors in there are # 4511207 on the body and 4511205 on the part that goes in the hole. what is the right # posta be? i measured the inside and it is .310, the injector tip is about a half inch long. with the three washers it is just about .310 . on another note where is the hole and timing pin in the flywheel the front pully doesnt have any marks? thanks jon
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D-17_Dave
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Mocksville NC
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Posted: 18 Jan 2012 at 8:53pm |
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Left side of the engine in front of the bell housing about the hieght of the frame rail is a shoulder bolt. Unscrew this bolt and invert it and insert it into the mating hole in the flywheel. You'll have to rotate the engine onto compresion stroke by removing the cover on the side of the injector pump and watch the window for the timing mark on the rotating group to line up with the static mark. You may have to rock the crank slightly away from the marks perfect alignment as this indicates how much advance your pump timing has. When the bolt falls into the flywheel you are TDC. Don't forget to remove the bolt before attempting to start. I have seen bent shoulders on bolts before.lol
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Yea, I can fix that.....
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donais
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Location: Ramona Ca
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Posted: 18 Jan 2012 at 10:07pm |
thanks dave ill try that tomorrow . any insite on the injectors? so last week i changed the oil, air filter and fuel filters, now the stupid thing has some blowby. i guess the crude oil in the crankcase was sealing it up pretty good. would seafoam maybe clean up the inside of the motor?
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D-17_Dave
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Posted: 19 Jan 2012 at 8:46am |
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As old as the engine is I would exspect some blowby. Every engine has some so unless you want to get real technical and measure it with a monameter don't worry about it. As for cleaning it out there are any number of aditives and home made concoctions that could help clean out an engine. The thing is that if you do have some type of crud internally and you break it loose then where is it likely to go. It could end up somewhere it doesn't need to be. IMHO the only thing I would do is solve the injector issue and run it good under load for a few hrs. Work the engine and get it good and hot naturally. Keep an eye on the oil for contamination and repeat an oil change if you see it getting contaminated soon. You don't know what has been changed on the engine prior to you so if there is a compatibility issue I'm sure several may have an extra set of injectors that you can get and have them serviced before installing them. This way you know what you have.
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Yea, I can fix that.....
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