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D17 engine removal |
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Doobletango ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 21 Jun 2020 Location: Illinois Points: 67 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 23 Jul 2020 at 9:37pm |
I’m in the process of removing the gas engine from my series 1 D17. According to my IT manual I have to pull the front end to pull the engine. I know this sounds dumb, but is there a way to pull the Engine without removing the front end?
Are there any tips I need to know in disassembly? I was hoping I could pull the engine without splitting the tractor, but it sounds like I have to partially split it anyway. |
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MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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Got to get frontend out of the way. MACK
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Doobletango ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 21 Jun 2020 Location: Illinois Points: 67 |
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That’s what I thought. And it looks like it would make life easier to did it that way. Just wondered.....
Thanks! |
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AaronSEIA ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Mt Pleasant, IA Points: 2564 |
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You can roll the front and frame rails out as one unit if you have a wide front. My 11 year old and I did that with mine a couple years ago. Frame rails need to be pretty loose at the pedestal so they'll swing out past the block. Not a bad job at all. Hardest part was the PS lines. on a S2 one of them is pretty hard to get at. AaronSEIA
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ACinSC ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 16 Dec 2015 Location: South Carolina Points: 2926 |
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Randy I'm glad you asked this question . I was wondering the same thing about my series 1 D 15 . Thanks
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21489 |
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Drain the radiator/engine block of coolant. Remove the hoods and center hood panel. Remove the radiator and grille shell as one unit. Power steering lines must be disconnected at least on one end. Set the brakes hard and place a jack under the bellhousing. Loosen 8 side frame bolts on all ends. Remove 4 bolts securing side frames to engine front mount. Remove rear pivot bolts on the wide front axle after placing a 5 gallon pail and a 4" x 4" x 18" block of wood on top of it under the front axle wishbone to catch it. Adjusting the jack to a proper height to lighten the weight on the front axle. Carefully remove the four front side frame bolts. Two people can roll the axle forward and out of the way while holding the wishbone up. Don't let the front support housing fall off of the pivot pin !!! Keep front end assembly level or down at the rear. Do not tip forward. a cherry picker can be attached to the front support (radiator bolt holes) to make it easier and safer.
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WF owner ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 May 2013 Location: Bombay NY Points: 4912 |
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Put some wooden blocks between the wide front end and the housing to prevent it from tilting side to side.
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DaveKamp ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Apr 2010 Location: LeClaire, Ia Points: 5997 |
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IF you have fabrication skills, one of the BEST things you could do to make this (and many other tasks) easy, is to make appropriate 'splitting stands'. Look around, you'll see a zillion good ideas of how guys have done this. A smooth concrete floor, some casters, and some square tube stock, cut and welded to bolt onto frame rails, etc.,, will allow you to break the tractor apart, and roll the pieces away... and that's 90% of the job right there.
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Doobletango ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 21 Jun 2020 Location: Illinois Points: 67 |
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I picked up an engine crane this last week and got the engine out of the tractor this morning. Have to dig out my engine stand and get busy.
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