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JC-WI 
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: wisconsin
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 Topic: D17 diesel head bolts
Posted: 12 Dec 2022 at 12:40am |
The other day I was thinking about the old D17 diesel, and started thinking about the old head bolts. Wondering what would be better to use when the head goes back on, use the same old head bolts, get new head bolts, or replace the bolts with new ARP studs and nuts when putting head on? Would like to hear thoughts and opinions. Thanks.
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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DrAllis
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
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Posted: 12 Dec 2022 at 6:33am |
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The old WC/WD engines had studs/washers/nuts. What a pain to try and clean up the top of the block when replacing a head gasket !! When the tall cylinder head was then used, all the 1/2" holes had gr 5 bolts instead of studs. By the time the D-17's and newer 170/175's were being built, there were zero studs, all gr 8 bolts. What type of clamping method you use, makes little difference in the sealing of the fire ring to the top flange of the sleeves. You can argue that all you want. The engine has a design flaw and the most expensive studs/nuts/washers are just a band-aid to try and keep the head gasket from blowing. It may lengthen the life some, but for how long (if at all) ?? I've never replaced a head gasket in a G-262. I've replaced dozens in D-262.
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MACK
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Posted: 12 Dec 2022 at 7:57am |
Bolts are usually good. If it uses nuts, the nuts are part of the problem. I recommend to use lug nuts from a car or pickup. The best thing you can do is to use my firerings. MACK
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Gatz in NE
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Location: Lincoln, NE
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Posted: 12 Dec 2022 at 8:28am |
a product we always used for head gaskets on Diesel engines was Permatex “High-Tack” spray sealant. It helped keep those head gaskets from blowing; worked for gas engines too. Important to let the spray get tacky before assembly. And use something disposable to set the gasket on when spraying. Coat both sides evenly. Years after I worked on tractors and cars, my brother had an Oliver 1800 that had some water in the oil. Time to pull the head. When buying the new gasket set from the engine shop, I asked for the High-Tack. The (older) guy at the counter just grinned and said “wise choice”
Edited by Gatz in NE - 12 Dec 2022 at 8:32am
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55allis
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Joined: 30 Jun 2020
Location: Griswold Iowa
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Posted: 12 Dec 2022 at 12:36pm |
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I put the arp studs in my 45 with the d262 with hylomar spray on sealant, it was supposedly used on race cars and was said they’d blow a gasket, let it set over night and it would heal…
Yea, I think they were over imagining….
But so far no more head gasket eating…
I do have the arp part numbers for a d19 head but I had to cut them down about an 1/2” if that helps….
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1955 AC WD45 diesel with D262 repower, 1949 AC WD45
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JC-WI
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Posted: 12 Dec 2022 at 10:25pm |
So the consensus is to just put the old head bolts back in and use
Mac's fire rings and spray the gasket on both sides with 'High Tack'
spray sealant and torque it to specs. Had planned to use
Copper Coat on the head gasket when the time came to bolt her down
tight, so 'High Tack' is that much better...? Had thought
the head studs were the better design, being the studs are placed in the
block tight and fine threads on top that can exert more pressure. But
that lends to having twice as many thread surfaces to be prone to
failure. Sometimes simple is better.
Thanks guys for the thoughts.
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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DrAllis
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Posted: 12 Dec 2022 at 10:26pm |
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It's not necessarily a problem with the bolts. It's usually a problem with the sleeves that aren't above the blocks deck .002" to .005" that causes a compression leak thru the soft fire rings, and then that blows out the gasket.
Edited by DrAllis - 12 Dec 2022 at 10:27pm
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JC-WI
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Posted: 12 Dec 2022 at 11:35pm |
Thanks Doc, protrusion of sleeves I believe are good. Engine was oh in 1971 and was holding good, except it started leaking antifreeze out of the back corner of the head gasket as close as I can remember (1998-9). and had water pump failure too. Sent the head out to clean the surface by professional machine shop and it was in spec yet. I put in the fire rings and gasket and set the head on. Problem that haunts me was the 'guide bolts' were couple bolts I cut the heads off and wrapped them with tape... I didn't feel that the head was centered exactly with those makeshift guides, so I covered it up for another day when I had better guides to use... and now its 20+ years later.  Gotta get it going again.
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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jeickman01
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Joined: 24 Feb 2017
Location: Dyer, TN
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Posted: 13 Dec 2022 at 5:31pm |
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x2 on liner protrusion. Liners sink so they need to be checked every time.
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