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D17 4cyl 3.7 Tune Up Suggestions?

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Chisel&Disc View Drop Down
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Joined: 04 Aug 2019
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chisel&Disc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: D17 4cyl 3.7 Tune Up Suggestions?
    Posted: 04 Aug 2019 at 9:22pm
Hello, I just bought a 1966 Allis Chalmers D17 IV Gas with loader. The previous owner said it had been sitting for a year or so and within the last five years he'd only used it a few times. The tractor will fire with a few squirts of starting fluid although doesn't want to keep running. So I went and ordered parts for a tune up, we'll start with that and see where it gets us. I figured I might as well get on here and see if anyone had any experience and relative suggestions regarding bringing this good old girl back to solid working condition besides or in addition to the items I'll list below.

Today's Napa Order...

Cap: $11.99
Rotor: $17.99
Plugs: $2.69 x 4
Wires: $32.99
Air filter: $41.89
Oil filter: $8.29
Oil: I'll pick up with my parts order tomorrow any suggestions?

Points: $ 17.99
Condenser: $3.29

Fuel filter: Clean out small plastic separator bowl is there another?

Fuel: Drain and fill gas.

Carburetor: Disassemble & Clean?

Hydraulics: Top off fluid, Order filter or filters?.. I knew I forgot something!

Grease Zerk Fittings.



Anything anyone knowledgeable pertaining to this tractor noticed I didn't mention and would be willing to add would be appreciated.












Edited by Chisel&Disc - 07 Aug 2019 at 2:48am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 2019 at 9:39pm
If it is only running on ether, I would suspect it is not getting gas to the engine.  Go through that fuel system from front to back first:  clean out the tank, clean out sediment bowl and replace the screen and gasket, make sure the line is clear, give a carb a GOOD cleaning out.  Once you are done with the fuel, replace the air filter.
At this point, see if it runs on gas.  If it does, then you can redo the ignition system.
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote exSW Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 2019 at 10:06pm
Replace all the soft fuel lines with new. Ethanol gas eats old rubber. File the points . Give the carb a couple wacks with a screwdriver handle to unstick the float. Check out the entire air inlet system. Bugs,mud daubers and mice get everywhere. Cheap and easy first. Check the battery cable connections and shine them up.

Edited by exSW - 04 Aug 2019 at 10:08pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JC-WI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 2019 at 10:48pm
Better get at least the gaskets for the carb, unless your willing to make them yourself. ...maybe check throttle shaft for wear on carb... if it has slop in the shaft, get the kit with new shaft and bushings and seals...

 If the plug wires look okay, check them for continuity because they should be solid core wires, and really don't need changing unless they are leaking current.

sparkplugs... Several brands out there, some like Autolites, NGK, champions etc.  I use to like AC DELCO  plugs but seems they are all getting made in some foriegn facility... so hence you don't knoiw what you really are getting. I stuck AC R45XLS into my 170 and like them but to each his own for what seems to serve you best.

 Condenser... I see your buying the parts from NAPA, Make sure you get their Blue Streak points and condenser or better from them.  Seems an old condenser is better than the new foriegn made condensers are. There was a discussion on here awhile ago about condensers and some recomended the NAPA brand.  I personally have thrown away condensers from the cheap tune-up kits because they didn't last very long and put the old ones back in.

  If you have questions, don't hesitate to ask... Usually somebody will come along and answer them.

 Good luck there, and welcome to the forum.

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The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chisel&Disc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 2019 at 11:43pm
I appreciate everyone's input and welcome, It appears I don't know how to show who I'm responding to specifically. None the less Thank You All for your time responding. We'll see how it goes tomorrow.


Edited by Chisel&Disc - 04 Aug 2019 at 11:51pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chisel&Disc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug 2019 at 2:13am

Update...

Installed new battery and new ground cable. Drained the old gas, removed the glass bowl separator and cleaned out a bunch of hard deposits. Cleaned the dirty screen filter, cleaned the muck above the bowl filter, sprayed out the supply line from the tank to the filter and supply line to the carb. Mixed Up 5 gallons of 92 octane, a bottle of 104 octane booster, a bottle of Lucas carb cleaner and added to the tank. Changed the oil and filter, cap and rotor, plugs and wires. Cleaned out the air filter/oil trap which was a gray sludge mixture of water, oil, dirt, dust, debris and who knows what. Sprayed two cans of break clean up into the wire mesh filter until clean then refilled the oil trap. Removed the carb sprayed out the jet and orifices with carb cleaner, noticed the float had filled with gas from some small pitting and no longer worked. Carb gaskets happened to be in decent shape although I think I'll call TonysTractors for new float, carb kit and a new filter bowl gasket. I got it to run pretty well from idle to max throttle for about an hour then it died. I believe it clogged up again with deposits breaking down from the carb cleaner and what was left in the gas tank after I drained it. I was able to keep restarting it although it wouldn't keep running for more than a few seconds before continually bogging out and dying. I'm pretty sure it clogged up again as my filter screen and bowl separator started to fill up again with particulates. I'll clean the fuel run out again and report back.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimNearFortWorth Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug 2019 at 12:28pm
Air filter oil trap on a D17IV?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug 2019 at 12:39pm
Chisel&Disc,
Welcome to the forum. You dove right into the 17. Good job. Yes that float may be causing you the problem, if you haven't changed or repaired it? Filling up with gas, it may be flooding the engine? Your carb rebuild will need to happen soon.
If you get a chance post some pictures too.
Regards,
 Chris

D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug 2019 at 12:52pm
Originally posted by TimNearFortWorth TimNearFortWorth wrote:

Air filter oil trap on a D17IV?
2+2 ain't equaling 4 is it?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimNearFortWorth Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug 2019 at 1:20pm
You got it Steve but I just put the SIV gas away after cleaning my rad and dry filter, 1/2 hour before seeing the oil cup reference. Some days you blow right by the details, other times my old Oldheimers brainstill functions!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chisel&Disc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug 2019 at 1:44pm
*Oil bath with mesh air cleaner.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrAllis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug 2019 at 1:57pm
Series 1 and 2 had an oil bath air cleaner. Series 3 and 4 had a dry air filter similar to a car. Or are you talking about the breather cap on top of the valve cover ??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chisel&Disc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug 2019 at 2:33pm
No I'm talking about and oil bath filter. Funny NAPA did send me a traditional air filter, I figured they were just mistaken. I'll check the serial number and report back.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Don(MO) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Aug 2019 at 4:48pm
If your D17 has an oil bath air cleaner I'll bet it has the head lights on the front of the tractor (not on the fenders) is the hyd pump mounted on the right side and below the fuel tank outside of the tractor, are the hyd leavers all on the right side of the seat or on the left side of the steering wheel? If you can take a look at all the stuff I listed and let us know then we can tell what Series D17 you have. This just a guess but I thinking someone may have installed Series-4 decals on a Series 1 or 2 tractor.   
3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chisel&Disc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2019 at 2:42am
Update...

Today I went and picked up a carb rebuild kit although the only items I really needed was a new float and a new glass bowl separator gasket. Neither of which by the way come in the carb rebuild kit. Since I was only about an hour away from Tony's Tractors I decided to stop by and pick up the items which he did have in stock and introduce myself. Anyhow as I said I ended up not using the rebuild kit. I did remove the carb, took it apart again cleaned the body, the jet, and passageways. I reassembled again reusing the old gaskets, they were still very much usable, they don't leak and they don't appear to be breaking down to any discernible degree. Deciding not to continually fight with what I assumed to be the root problem that being the gas tank or more specifically the remaining contamination residing in the gas tank. I decided to take it off the tractor, I repeatedly sloshed it around and quickly dumped out incremental amounts of the previous fuel & carb cleaner mixture attempting to incurage particulate contamination to be picked up and thrown into suspension just long enough to be carried away while dumping. Afterwords I again blew both fuel supply lines out with break clean, cleaned the small screen filter and this time put in the new gasket for the bowl separator after scraping out the rest of what was left of the old one.
Put everything back together fired her up and let her run for a hour plus this evening... No bogging, no hiccups, no signs or sounds of anything except the obvious utter delight of a previously extremely neglected good ol tractor very appreciatively roaring back to life!

Also while I was at Tony's I had a picture of my serial number D17 32558 and his allis chalmers books confirm as some of you imagined it is not a 1966 Series IV as advertised by the previous owner, instead the serial number makes it a Series II 1961 I believe.

I'll try and figure out how to get some pictures on here when I get some more time.

Thanks for the help guys.


Edited by Chisel&Disc - 07 Aug 2019 at 2:45am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chisel&Disc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2019 at 3:00am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Sugarmaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2019 at 7:30am
C&D,
 Thanks for the update on you nice looking D17 series II. I assume you got a new float? 
I have done a bunch of carbs and if it was me I would have probably put all the new carb stuff on while it was apart. But if it's running good leave it alone and tuck that away for a time when you might need it. 
Does your tractor have power steering? 
Regards,
 Chris
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TimNearFortWorth Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 2019 at 12:24pm
Looks to be a 417(?) model loader and good match for the D17 if not over stressed.
May want to lift the front wheels off the ground when you get up and running and check for slop in the "king pin" on the front axle plus double check the drive coupling for the pump at the crank pulley.
Can do plenty of work with that combination, grease gun is your friend for sure.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chisel&Disc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug 2019 at 2:06am
Update...

Today I greased her all up, had to use the piston and marvel mystery oil on two zerks of the bunch, one on a king pin and one on the loader but that worked and she's nice and lubed! Got the gear box filled up with 80/90w & hydraulic oil topped off. After that I figured it's time to drive her around the farm and see how well she would do in all gears. Well in the back of my farm there's a switch back dirt road that goes up about 75' in elevation that's in excess of a 15% grade climb. I drove back there in fourth gear which really gets up and moves by the way... Approached the hill in third gear and decided to go for it about 80% throttle. She drove right up without the slightest care in the world in fact almost sounded so good I'd aware She was more stoked than me to be back alive and ready for work!

Well that's when I decided the calcium ballast leaking out of the tube and rusting out the left rear rim wasn't going to stay like that any longer.

I forgot to take a before pic of the hole in the rim after taking out the tube.

Here's the tube...



After removing the tube a hole the size silver dollar crumbled out directly around where the calcium ballast had been leaking past a faulty valve core and slowly seeping out of the plastic cap for some time.

Here's after welding in some 3/16" thick flat bar.







Took the grinder with cup wheel and cleaned up the entire inside of the rim, extra thoroughly where the bead will seat. Also took a hand wire brush and small pry bar and cleaned all the deposits off the tire where the bead will seat.



Tomorrow morning we'll get the new tube put in and tire back on.

Edited by Chisel&Disc - 08 Aug 2019 at 2:08am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ed (Ont) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug 2019 at 8:47pm
Interesting how you have given a non metric motor a metric designation. That is a 226 cu in. gas motor. Nothing metric about it. Lol. Now if working on something less ancient than myself it probably would be metric in design with the appropriate metric size. 😀
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Strokendiesel002 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug 2019 at 9:25pm
Nice job patching. How much of a bigger was it to break the bead?

I'm about to do the same :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alex09(WI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug 2019 at 10:34pm
Welcome to the forum! The D17 is one of the best all around tractor, even handier with that loader! Looks like you are mechanically adept around the old D17. Nice to see! Great job jumping right to work on an old tractor. If you take care of it, the D17 will take care of you. Once you get all the small bugs fixed, im sure you'll like it!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Reindeer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Aug 2019 at 10:56pm
Looks like y?oh are making excellent progress! These old tractors are very satisfying to work on. Nothing like getting them running and working as they should. Enjoy your successes!
                 
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