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Jk chalmers 
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Location: Delaware ohio
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 Posted: 21 Jul 2018 at 8:27am |
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Also The best deal on New original looking seat cushions is eBay There dang near half the price of anyone else and they’re comfortable.
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modirt
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Joined: 18 Jul 2018
Location: Missouri
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Posted: 21 Jul 2018 at 8:39am |
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Was wondering if it would be possible / feasible for an upholstery shop to rehab the original seat. Main reason being it still has the AC logo and name on the back of it.
Edited by modirt - 21 Jul 2018 at 8:41am
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Jk chalmers
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Posted: 21 Jul 2018 at 9:32am |
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Yes you use the same frame and put the new cushions right onto it
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Steve Zidlicky
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Location: Bolivar, MO
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Posted: 21 Jul 2018 at 9:34am |
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you will use the original seat frame either way. you are only changing the cushions.
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Steve Zidlicky
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Posted: 21 Jul 2018 at 9:35am |
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slow today. question already answered
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Jk chalmers
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Posted: 21 Jul 2018 at 9:38am |
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Haha
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modirt
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Posted: 21 Jul 2018 at 12:53pm |
Ah yes....nothing like the smell of ATF in the morning............That pan was empty last night, so all that came from the cylinders.......plus whatever is still left on top of them.
And the carb is off and is went to town to be cleaned up and rebuilt. Shop said they had an old guy (who turns out to be younger than me) who had done about 1,000 of them.
Throttle valve was stiff but working. Choke was not wanting to budge much at all.
Once free of the carb, choke cable freed up and while stiff, was working some. Throttle linkage remained stiff however. Not sure where to go looking for the trouble there. Don't know if simply working them back and forth some is the answer or if something else should be done.
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modirt
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Posted: 21 Jul 2018 at 6:26pm |
End of the day and I turned the fan and it was moving an inch or so in either direction. I'm guessing engine is free.
I'll drink to that!!! 
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AC720Man
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Posted: 21 Jul 2018 at 10:01pm |
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A D-15 in that nice of shape would bring $5k around here. They dont come up for sale very often. Lights would have to go. Missing side panel but they are available. You could have twins!
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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modirt
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 9:38am |
Those asking about the cultivator, not sure if this would have been a part of it or what it was used for. Attaches to the 3 point lift arms, and when the arms are lifted, it would rotate forward.
On the rod in question, don't have a better picture of it than the original.
The rod in question is held up in the front by a loop of baling wire. It runs back under through a loop under the left step, where it simply ends in space. The back end is threaded rod.
Don't know if the three point arm bracket thingy and this rod were supposed to be connected in any way or if both were for some other implements that are long gone.
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modirt
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 9:46am |
Another question. She has a single hydraulic coupler for a one way cylinder. The mower she was pulling has a one way lift cylinder as does my 7' New Holland haybine. (If I get her running guess what job she is going to have?)
I assume this is a standard pioneer coupler fitting?
The newer D15 parked on the road has two working fittings? I assume that means a two way cylinder operation? Is that an option for this tractor?
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ocharry
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Location: missouri
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 10:15am |
hey Modirt,,would you or could you stop by the D15 and give it a good look over,,,start it up,, and talk to the owner for me ,,,,just for some particulars,,,,please,,,if its any good i may need that little girl
and you are around jeff city???? if you decide to take this mission let me know
this communication will self destruct in 30 sec.....lol
thanks much
ocharry
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modirt
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 10:37am |
 ocharry wrote:
hey Modirt,,would you or could you stop by the D15 and give it a good look over,,,start it up,, and talk to the owner for me ,,,,just for some particulars,,,,please,,,if its any good i may need that little girl
and you are around jeff city???? if you decide to take this mission let me know
this communication will self destruct in 30 sec.....lol
thanks much
ocharry |
You would probably do better to call the number on the ad to address your questions directly to the seller. After that, I'd be happy to go over to take additional photos and post them or send them to you.
If not obvious by now, I don't have much history with these old Allis tractors ( we had all John Deere), so I'm not the person you want to be your eyes and ears. I'm getting up to speed as fast as I can, but I'm still learning.
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Don(MO)
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 11:01am |
Here's a nice show that will have lot's of great AC guys there ready to help and you will see rows of Allis tractors just asking to be looked at. Join us at the Osage River Antique Power Association (ORAPA) show at the Miller County Fairgrounds in Eldon, MO from August 24-26, 2018. The Missouri Allis Chalmers club's summer meeting will be at 2:00 PM on Saturday, August 25. ORAPA is featuring Allis-Chalmers tractors and equipment in 2018. It's a must see show for me.  Here's the link to the "Missouri Allis Chalmers club" below. Forgot the link to the show grounds web sight below.
Edited by Don(MO) - 22 Jul 2018 at 11:06am
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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ocharry
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 11:10am |
ok,,,,thank you sir..
i will have to give them a call and get the skinny on it
ocharry
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modirt
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 11:43am |
Don(MO) wrote:
Here's a nice show that will have lot's of great AC guys there ready to help and you will see rows of Allis tractors just asking to be looked at.Join us at the Osage River Antique Power Association (ORAPA) show at the Miller County Fairgrounds in Eldon, MO from August 24-26, 2018. The Missouri Allis Chalmers club's summer meeting will be at 2:00 PM on Saturday, August 25. ORAPA is featuring Allis-Chalmers tractors and equipment in 2018. It's a must see show for me. Here's the link to the "Missouri Allis Chalmers club" below. Forgot the link to the show grounds web sight below.
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Thanks for the info on the show. Looks like the perfect chance for me to fondle paint, kick some tires and learn what I need to know.
Also, I noticed the Wise Bros. plow day? I live 15 minutes from there. I cruise threw his lot now and then. He has an old All Crop 66 I've been ogling, with a few unique things on it, like the duel tires and straw spreader. Does not have the belts and not sure about the condition of the cylinder bars. I have questions about the All Crops and that probably rates a new thread unto itself.
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modirt
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 2:04pm |
This appears to be the serial number, but it makes no sense to me. Perhaps someone with better eyes than mine.....one who speaks the language, can interpret?
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modirt
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 2:09pm |
Peeked up the back end of the generator and can see what looks like mud dauber nests inside the housing.
I assume that is bad and firing it up in that condition could risk fatal damage? (My dad had that happen to him with an air compressor motor that sat unused for a year or so. It fried the motor).
If this needs to be addressed and I slip the generator off, how extensive does one have to get to fix this?
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Jk chalmers
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 2:20pm |
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Believe that serial number would put it as a 1963 If I’m reading it correctly it says 16,800 also if it’s the original carburetor a lot of times it will have the date on the brass tag.
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JayD-17(NY)
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 3:37pm |
May be I am not seeing it right but the last # in serial # looks more like the letter "D" to me which would suggest it was a diesel at one time or the torque-tube/rear end came from a diesel?...may be not.......
Again, maybe I am looking too much into it; but I'm seeing what looks like yellow paint peeking through around the serial # suggesting maybe ,at least that half of the tractor, came from an industrial model? Could be just my eyes, could be primer......any signs of yellow elsewhere on the tractor? It does appear to have been repainted and re-decaled in the past......
Edited by JayD-17(NY) - 22 Jul 2018 at 3:41pm
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AC720Man
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 3:59pm |
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They used a yellow primer from the factory. Primer may not be the correct term, but that was factory. Dad's had that on it when I sand blasted it to paint. I only removed what had flaked up. Primer never lifted.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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JayD-17(NY)
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 4:07pm |
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Yeah I remember seeing that type of "Primer" on some of the Allises from that period...thats why I asked if any yellow was peeking through elsewhere....that 0 that looks like a "D" is likely a funny stamped 0 then , and the tractor is probably a all original 1963.....
Edited by JayD-17(NY) - 22 Jul 2018 at 4:09pm
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DiyDave
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 5:19pm |
modirt wrote:
Those asking about the cultivator, not sure if this would have been a part of it or what it was used for. Attaches to the 3 point lift arms, and when the arms are lifted, it would rotate forward.
On the rod in question, don't have a better picture of it than the original.
The rod in question is held up in the front by a loop of baling wire. It runs back under through a loop under the left step, where it simply ends in space. The back end is threaded rod.
Don't know if the three point arm bracket thingy and this rod were supposed to be connected in any way or if both were for some other implements that are long gone.
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Not sure about tractors with 3 point, but on my SC D-15(II), the lift mechanism is mounted under the foot rest. The mechanism that is in the pictures appears to push forward as the arms lift. The cultivator mechanism (at least on mine), pulls to the rear, as the arms are lifted. Might be a farmer cobble-up, to adapt a JD mower, to an Allis tractor... 
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Jk chalmers
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 5:35pm |
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Is that actually a D 15 with a factory three point?
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LeonR2013
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Posted: 22 Jul 2018 at 6:17pm |
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Modirt I live just east of Fulton and travel WW pretty often to go to Columbia to the doctor. So if you would like me to drop by I'd be glad to. Use a PM to keep it a little more private. Have fun with it. Leon
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modirt
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Posted: 23 Jul 2018 at 11:41am |
Asked this before, but it may have gotten lost in the flurry of stuff I posted over the weekend........
Now that I know the engine is freed up, I"m ready to put on new oil filter and dump in new oil so I can bump the starter to try turning her over.
But if my recollections is right, no oil will be flowing to the moving parts until the oil filter has been filled. I could pre-load the filter before putting it on, but putting it on upside down would mean most of that would dump out on the ground. Or just work fast?
But the question is.....is there a way to spin the oil pump to get all the parts lubed up so as to avoid a dry start? Especially for an engine that has sat for so long?
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Jk chalmers
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Posted: 23 Jul 2018 at 12:01pm |
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Other people can chime in but you are oiling the valves and such as you pour the Oil on the top of the engine You’ll be fine just turning the engine over... That’s just my opinion it’s not gonna take much for the oil to be distributed everywhere and it’s not like the engine is going to be running so just turning it over will be fine.
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Steve Zidlicky
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Posted: 23 Jul 2018 at 12:35pm |
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since it has sat several years, just unplug coil wire so it will not start and spin it over some to get the oil everywhere then hook up coil wire and start it
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Don(MO)
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Posted: 23 Jul 2018 at 1:00pm |
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Like the guys said it will be OK to roll the engine over, I'd leave the plugs out when you roll it over to get as much of the ATF oil out/off the tops of the pistons before you try to start it.
Edited by Don(MO) - 23 Jul 2018 at 1:02pm
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3 WD45's with power steering,G,D15 fork lift,D19, W-Speed Patrol, "A" Gleaner with a 330 corn head,"66" combine,roto-baler, and lots of Snap Coupler implements to make them work for their keep.
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Jk chalmers
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Posted: 23 Jul 2018 at 1:02pm |
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Also don’t be alarmed after it fires up that it smokes for a second ha ha just make sure the oil pressure is good after it fires up...!! I’m sure you already knew that just had to say and can we post videos I’d love to hear the initial fire !!
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