D-15 Engine

Checked the compression on my non-running D-15 today . First 3 cylinders were 60-70 max , last one was 160 . Bought this tractor with the oil pan and starter pulled off . Seller said the motor was locked up . Any advice ? It's a Series one . Serial #D15 2595 .              THANKS !!

60 to 70 is real low.  Rebuild it.  Kits for the 149 are readily available for a decent price.

Check head gasket first. Advanced timing will get head gasket on them motors.    MACK

Yep, I'd do a wet compression test first. If numbers don't go up, you've got valve issues. 

I'd try to get it running for awhile and see how it runs,if it smokes etc.The rings might just be stuck a little and running will usually break them loose plus by running it you'll find out things like whats the oil pressure and such.Tearing into the motor is the last thing to do not the first.

I would do a leak down test

New pistons and sleeves and grind the valves and seats. You can test all you want but you are going to tear it down for an overhaul.

ACinSC wrote: Not sure what to do . I'd hate to sink $2,000 in a engine rebuild only to discover the drive train is junk . All I know for sure is that the brakes work .

Exactly why I'd try to get it running no matter how bad it runs at least you can check out
everything else to see if its worth working on.

Hard to believe , but my son and I got this D 15 running today . I drove it around the yard a few minutes and it quit . Got it back in the shop and got the motor started again . It will run a couple minutes and quit . If it sits 5 mins it'll start and run again for a couple mins . Gonna pull the fuel line and see if I can figure out what's going on . We have gas at the carb but it's sure not a strong stream . Should say I replaced the plugs , wires , cap , rotor , points and cond . THANKS B and B . Any advice is welcome .

It sounds (to me) to be a fuel problem. Sounds like it burns the fuel out of the carb bowl, then quits. Have you tried removing the sediment bowl and cleaning the passages out?

bet we've all been there...
tear sediment bowl of tank, flush tank out REAL good. I fill with water ,let it 'pee' out 2-3 times then use compressed air to blow dry, swish  winter squirter fluid in(have lots) ,drain then clean sediment bowl and line with carb cleaner. Put 2-3 gallons of FRESH gas in ,see how it pours out at carb connection. It should be see through clean. NOW connect to carb and try again.
Jay

Personally I'd never use rubber. I've always used copper or steel. Rubber just sounds risky to me. Plus, I think it looks much cleaner with a properly routed copper or steel line. 

Edited by CrestonM - 12 Feb 2018 at 2:31pm

D-15's had a rubber fuel line from the factory on series 2's.

Tweaked my sediment bowl and the metal fuel line this morn . Took a while but I finally got everything lined up and put together . Tractor fired up and ran until I turned the key off . One problem solved , I'm sure I'll be back soon with another . THANKS !!

How did it run? Smoke? I’m sure everyone knows about Seafoam. I highly suggest it. Put it in the fuel and in the crank case. It does an excellent job of cleaning fuel systems, valves, and stuck rings. You wont believe the color of the oil when you drain it. Black as can be. Run it at least 15 minutes or longer. Change oil and add more Seafoam. Depending on the severity of grim it may take several changes to clean the gunk out.
I had an engine that blew blue smoke so bad I couldn’t see the front of my shop when I finally got it running. 3 oil/filter changes later, 1 hr run time total she was and is still smoke free to this day. Compression went from 82 psi to over 135. 2 cylinder Onan. I highly recommend the product. Use it regularly in my fuel tanks, keeps O2 sensors clean as well as injectors or carbs.