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D-15 and Box Scraper |
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John-Paul ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 May 2019 Location: Kettle Falls Points: 65 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 13 Nov 2021 at 9:44pm |
I have a 1963 D-15 gas. I am thinking that I need a box scraper and am wondering about the compatibility of a local one here for sale and my tractor. I have a back blade now, but it just doesn't seem to 'cut it'. I have even added an extra 200lbs to it. After a heavy rain, it is still not heavy enough to get below the wash-boarding on our community, 1 mile long dirt road. I think that the shanks on a box blade will be more aggressive to dig down, and because of the box blade design, it may be easier to add additional weight to it if I wanted to. There is one here locally for sale. It is a Land Pride BB1266. It is 66" and weighs 375lbs. It is rated for a tractor 17-30 hp, and in other write-ups about it, talks about it being good for compact tractors. The D-15 is approximately 40hp. Should I look for a heavier box blade which may be more durable for the long run and a more effective grader, or am I just over thinking this and the Land Pride will work good enough? I appreciate any input. Also, if I am missing some trick to make the back blade more effective, I am all ears. Thanks! (Hope this is not too silly of a question for this forum!)
Edited by John-Paul - 13 Nov 2021 at 9:47pm |
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21775 |
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375 lbs?? How heavy is your current blade ?? The scarfier shanks would loosen the dirt for sure and then you could blade it. Any box blade I've seen works best with a 2-way cylinder so you can lift the wheels off the ground for more weight. This is a pull-type box blade, Yes ??
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John-Paul ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 May 2019 Location: Kettle Falls Points: 65 |
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Pull-type? Yes. I think my current back blade weighs 275 - 300 lbs. The box blade I am (half-way) considering does not have wheels in back.
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PaulB ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Rocky Ridge Md Points: 5073 |
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Smaller box blades are generally 3pt implements You most likely want to find a 3pt box blade that is wider than your tires. I'm guessing that you already have a 3pt adapter for your D15, if not the OEM replicas that look like a wishbone are better. than find a set of stay chains than limit the drop of the implement. Sometimes without them you'll end up with more washboarding than you started with.
When I'm blading with a snap couple blade, I'll reverse the angle every other pass and that helps a lot. I also have a depth stop on My CA that I use the blade with, That allows the blade to just skim off the high spots. If you can find the depth stop for the rear arms on a D15 grab it. A snap coupler blade is built much heavier built than most 3pt ones. You might want to look for a good Snap coupler blade
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
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truckerfarmer ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 26 Jan 2013 Location: Watertown, SD Points: 3280 |
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Couple of things to consider when a blade won't cut. What condition is your cutting edge? What angle is your blade set at?
If your cutting edge is flat on the bottom, it won't cut very well. It act like a ski, and want to float over the top rather than cut. That can be compensated for if you have the ability to roll the blade forward. The angle of the blade also determines the amount of cut. The sharper the angle of blade increases the shear factor. If you have it close to straight, it can have a tendency to chatter and increase the washboard. Think of it like a knife. If you just try to push through it takes a lot of effort to cut. If you slice from one side to the other, it cuts much easier. The same applies to a blade. If you have it set straight, it is trying to push the top off the high spot of the ridge. If you have it set at a sharp angle it should slice the top off. To get rid of washboards, it often works best to cut the material all off, then lay it back down. I run the grader at work dealing with washboards on our haul road into the D cell. We average 150 garbage trucks in and out, so it gets pounded pretty hard. |
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Looking at the past to see the future.
'53 WD, '53 WD45, WD snap coupler field cultivator, #53 plow,'53 HD5B dozer Duct tape.... Can't fix stupidity. But will muffle the sound of it! |
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John-Paul ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 May 2019 Location: Kettle Falls Points: 65 |
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My D-15 does have a 3-point set-up. To tell you the truth, I had not heard of the snap coupler system until now. Thanks for everyone's responses up to now!
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John-Paul ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 May 2019 Location: Kettle Falls Points: 65 |
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Thank you PaulB - I reversed the angle last night when grading and yes, I noticed a difference - it helped cut. I will keep an eye out for the depth stops. Thanks!
Edited by John-Paul - 16 Nov 2021 at 8:35am |
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John-Paul ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 May 2019 Location: Kettle Falls Points: 65 |
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truckerfarmer - I adjusted the blade to get a better cutting angle, and it looks like that has helped. I will try to sharpen it, also, I guess with a grinder. The blade is bolted on so it is removable / replacable. Anyway, thanks for the tips!
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John-Paul ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 May 2019 Location: Kettle Falls Points: 65 |
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DrAllis - Thanks for the help! If and when I get a box blade, the concensus does seem to be to rip it up with a box blade, then to grade smooth with the back blade. I think I was looking for a one implement/silver bullet solution. That's ok though.
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TimNearFortWorth ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Dec 2009 Points: 2014 |
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You note the D15 as "1963".
Lights on fenders vs. front cowling? Oval muffler? FACTORY 3-pt.? D15II started in 63 but I have seen a couple late D15 Series One's with factory 3-pt. so if you have OEM factory 3-pt. I urge you to check the bolting on the underside of the rear end where the 3-pt. attaches to a plate frame bolted to the under side of the tractor. Not something you want the bolts working loose on if factory 3-pt. and maintaining a dirt drive will make a 3-pt. blade bounce plenty. A box blade with removable scarifier teeth (able to un-pin and slide the teeth up after use so you can use the box blade cutting edge) is handy, just keep an eye on the bolting under the tractor as factory 3-pt. on D15SII units is not as robust as the Snap Coupler with SC blade. I always go with the SC unit although I also have the 3-pt. A-C blades with extensions, when I want to "get rough". SC unit can take far more abuse IMO.
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DiyDave ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 53976 |
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I'd go with a wider box, the 15 will pull a 7' box, 5-1/2' barely covers the tire tracks, and won't in a curve. You say factory 3 point is it the 3 bolts up model, or a wishbone type adapter? Both can be factory...
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Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!
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John-Paul ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 May 2019 Location: Kettle Falls Points: 65 |
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Sorry for the late reply!
To answer your questions: Head lights? - they are on the cowling Oval muffler? - yes Factory 3-pt? I don't know I have tried to attach a photo but I can't seem to get it small enough to upload. There is a bit of a wishbone look to the bottom braces / arms, which attach to a plate. I do not see any remnants of a snap couple system, but maybe I am missing something. Yes, I will be sure those bolts are tightened. Actually, they look a little loose right now. |
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 87442 |
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open your photo on your computer in PAINT and RESIZE to 800 x 600 pixels and SAVE.. Most cameras take 5000 x 3000 size pictures and that is too big for uploading.
Once the photo is the proper size, click on the POST REPLY icon below the last post... Click on the GREEN TREE icon.... then get your photo off your desk top.
Edited by steve(ill) - 24 Nov 2021 at 11:41am |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 87442 |
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There is a bit of a wishbone look to the bottom braces / arms, which attach to a plate. I do not see any remnants of a snap couple system
Where/ How do the lower 3 point arms attach to the tractor under the transmission ? The Factory or any aftermarket hitch that uses the snap coupler would be similar to this.. ![]() Edited by steve(ill) - 24 Nov 2021 at 2:29pm |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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PaulB ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Rocky Ridge Md Points: 5073 |
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A 3pt Box scraper can easily do all that you are looking for. The scarifier teeth are almost always able to be raised.
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If it was fun to pull in LOW gear, I could have a John Deere.
Real pullers don't have speed limits. If you can't make it GO... make it SHINY |
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John-Paul ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 May 2019 Location: Kettle Falls Points: 65 |
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Steve - this is the unit I have, minus that cross stabilizer bar, which is missing. (I will be on the lookout for a replacement.) So I do have the snap coupler? And it sounds like this is a good set-up, correct? Just make sure that all the hardware is tightened up? Thanks for including the diagram!
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John-Paul ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 May 2019 Location: Kettle Falls Points: 65 |
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Thank you!
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DiyDave ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Gambrills, MD Points: 53976 |
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If you have that unit, you have a snap-coupler.
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Source: Babylon Bee. Sponsored by BRAWNDO, its got what you need!
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John-Paul ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 24 May 2019 Location: Kettle Falls Points: 65 |
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Good deal. Thank you!
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