![]() |
This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity. | |||||
The Forum | Parts and Services | Unofficial Allis Store | Tractor Shows | Serial Numbers | History |
D-14 Starter question |
Post Reply ![]() |
Author | |
Plowboy 10 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 22 Aug 2017 Location: NY Points: 10 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 22 Aug 2017 at 7:22pm |
Hi, I am new to this forum. I am working on a Allis Chalmers D-14 tractor . It is a 6 volt Positive unit. Someone put a 12 volt battery on it and messed up the charging system. I corrected all this but have another problem. The starter barley spins. I pulled the starter and it is a Delco unit. ID number is 110 474 oc1 . I called Delco tech line and they said this model does not exist. Ordered a tune up kit from a tractor supply company and they have no info either. I pulled the starter apart and it looks O.K. ( rang out commutator for shorts and checked the field coils too). I ordered a new 6 volt solenoid for the starter and another tractor supply company said it lists as a 24 volt starter. Does anybody have any idea what I have ?? Thanks for any help.
|
|
![]() |
|
Sponsored Links | |
![]() |
|
wfmurray ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Bostic NC Points: 1225 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
You should have a 6 volt starter. Take to good starter and gen shop and have it checked out.
|
|
![]() |
|
Gary ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Peterborough,On Points: 5890 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
6 volt Delco Remy No. is 1107472 Approx. 1960 12 volt No. is 1107758 Gary |
|
![]() |
|
Plowboy 10 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 22 Aug 2017 Location: NY Points: 10 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Hi, Yes this tractor is a 1959 I believe from the serial numbers. Could not understand why the Delco tag read the numbers I posted. Checked it several times!! It is going to a rebuilder tomorrow to see what it needs. Thanks to all and will post results when I get it back. Thank You.
|
|
![]() |
|
Hubert (Ga)engine7 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson Cnty,GA Points: 6411 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Check your battery cables, they need to be heavy duty ( 0 or larger ) and have good clean connections and good grounds. Clean the nose of the starter and the area where it slides into the tractor so you have a good connection. Also get a good set of points and condenser from Steve in NJ (B&B Custom Circuits), he is one of advertisers on this Forum.
|
|
Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.
|
|
![]() |
|
Plowboy 10 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 22 Aug 2017 Location: NY Points: 10 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Hi, Thanks for the update. Yes I am having #2 welding cables made for the amperage required to crank her over. I will clean up the nose cone also. I do have a question. The negative cable attaches to the solenoid but where does the positive cable connect. There were two . There is a braided flat steel cable that went from battery positive post to a small bolt located right above the battery tray on the right side below the hood. And someone installed a second cable from that small bolt connection and ran it down to the bolt that secures the starter in. They attached a battery post end and just slipped it over the end of the hex head of that bolt. Where should the positive battery cable attach?? And thanks for the info on vendors on the site. I have been using the internet too secure parts but from now on will see who sells parts on the Allis site to support them. Again thanks to all for your help.
|
|
![]() |
|
Gerald J. ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Especially at 6 volts cables rated for the NEC current are considerably too small. Like #2 for starter because the voltage drop is more critical. At 240 volts, 6 volts drop is trivial and accepted. At 6 volts 2 volts drop is way excessive. Go for 00 rather than 2 gauge.
Gerald J. |
|
![]() |
|
DougS ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I've found that welding cable is about one size smaller than AWG-sized cable. In other words, #2 welding cable is about the size of #3 AWG cable. How do I know? The #2 terminals were too large for the #2 welding cable.
|
|
![]() |
|
Plowboy 10 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 22 Aug 2017 Location: NY Points: 10 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Hi O.K. 00 cable it is. I had #2 cable made for our vintage race car and it worked fine but will go with what you suggest!! Thanks again for all the help.
|
|
![]() |
|
DougS ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
But stay with welding cable. Regular AWG cable is very stiff when you get it in that size.
|
|
![]() |
|
Hubert (Ga)engine7 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Jackson Cnty,GA Points: 6411 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Plowboy, here is the link to Steve's website: http://www.bb-customcircuits.com/. And btw welcome to the Forum. You will find some knowledgeable people (myself not included) who are happy to share their wealth of knowledge plus some opinions and good natured ribbing on occasion.
|
|
Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.
|
|
![]() |
|
Plowboy 10 ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 22 Aug 2017 Location: NY Points: 10 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Hi, I finally got this project completed. The starter was inspected and needed new bushings and a new 6 volt starter solenoid. Someone in our camp site made 3/0 cables for both battery cables. I welded a 3/8 inch bolt to the side of the starter case and attached the positive cable to it. Well she cranked great and started right up. Took her for a ride and she is running well with a new tune up also. I will need to get a new water temp gauge as the one in there is broken,the ignition switch is broken and they use a screw driver instead of a key. Looks like the brakes do not work.I had to pull the generator regulator and filed the points as they were compromised when the 12 volts was used to crank her over. I had a new headlight switch installed and if memory serves me correctly pulling it out a little a small charge back to the battery and full lights on have a higher charge. I now only have 1 charging rate so assume that was fried too and needs replacement. Would like to get a manual for servicing the tractor. Any suggestions on a good manual to purchase so I can start checking fluids and adjusting things? See other gauges on her and do not know what they are for.Going to check out hydraulic lift arms on the back and see if they work. O.K. Thanks to all for your help.
|
|
![]() |
|
Steve in NJ ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11926 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
We offer complete Starter and Generator service. Also offer restoration or exchange for the CORRECT 3 position Headlight/Charging switch (not the junky aftermarket one out there) Visit our website or give a call. Be glad to help you out with any questions...
Steve@B&B bb-customcircuits.com |
|
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
|
|
![]() |
Post Reply ![]() |
|
Tweet
|
Forum Jump | Forum Permissions ![]() You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |