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D-14 Starter question

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Plowboy 10 View Drop Down
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Joined: 22 Aug 2017
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    Posted: 22 Aug 2017 at 7:22pm
Hi, I am new to this forum. I am working on a Allis Chalmers D-14 tractor . It is a 6 volt Positive unit. Someone put a 12 volt battery on it and messed up the charging system. I corrected all this but have another problem. The starter barley spins. I pulled the starter and it is a Delco unit. ID number is 110 474 oc1 . I called Delco tech line and they said this model does not exist. Ordered a tune up kit from a tractor supply company and they have   no info either. I pulled the starter apart and it looks O.K. ( rang out commutator for shorts and checked the field coils too). I ordered a new 6 volt solenoid for the starter and another tractor supply company said it lists as a 24 volt starter. Does anybody have any idea what I have ?? Thanks for any help.
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wfmurray View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wfmurray Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug 2017 at 7:40pm
You should have a 6 volt starter. Take to good starter and gen shop and have it checked out.
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Gary View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug 2017 at 8:10pm

6 volt Delco Remy No. is 1107472

Approx. 1960 12 volt No. is 1107758

Gary
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Plowboy 10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug 2017 at 8:42pm
Hi, Yes this tractor is a 1959 I believe from the serial numbers. Could not understand why the Delco tag read the numbers I posted. Checked it several times!! It is going to a rebuilder tomorrow to see what it needs. Thanks to all and will post results when I get it back. Thank You.

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Hubert (Ga)engine7 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hubert (Ga)engine7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug 2017 at 6:51am
Check your battery cables, they need to be heavy duty ( 0 or larger ) and have good clean connections and good grounds. Clean the nose of the starter and the area where it slides into the tractor so you have a good connection. Also get a good set of points and condenser from Steve in NJ (B&B Custom Circuits), he is one of advertisers on this Forum.
Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.
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Plowboy 10 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Plowboy 10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug 2017 at 7:23am
Hi, Thanks for the update. Yes I am having #2 welding cables made for the amperage required to crank her over. I will clean up the nose cone also. I do have a question. The negative cable attaches to the solenoid but where does the positive cable connect. There were two . There is a braided flat steel cable that went from battery positive post to  a small bolt located right above the battery tray on the right side below the hood. And someone installed a second cable from that small bolt connection and ran it down to the  bolt that secures the starter in. They attached a battery post end and just slipped it over the end of the hex head of that bolt. Where should the positive battery cable attach?? And thanks for the info on vendors on the site. I have been using the internet too secure parts but from now on will see who sells parts on the Allis site to support them. Again thanks to all for your help.
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Gerald J. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gerald J. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug 2017 at 10:57am
Especially at 6 volts cables rated for the NEC current are considerably too small. Like #2 for starter because the voltage drop is more critical. At 240 volts, 6 volts drop is trivial and accepted. At 6 volts 2 volts drop is way excessive. Go for 00 rather than 2 gauge.

Gerald J.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug 2017 at 11:13am
I've found that welding cable is about one size smaller than AWG-sized cable. In other words, #2 welding cable is about the size of #3 AWG cable. How do I know? The #2 terminals were too large for the #2 welding cable.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Plowboy 10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug 2017 at 2:57pm
Hi O.K. 00 cable it is. I had #2 cable made for our vintage race car and it worked fine but will go with what you suggest!! Thanks again for all the help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DougS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug 2017 at 3:11pm
But stay with welding cable. Regular AWG cable is very stiff when you get it in that size.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hubert (Ga)engine7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Aug 2017 at 3:34pm
Plowboy, here is the link to Steve's website: http://www.bb-customcircuits.com/. And btw welcome to the Forum. You will find some knowledgeable people (myself not included) who are happy  to share their wealth of knowledge plus some opinions and good natured ribbing on occasion. 
Just an old country boy saved by the grace of God.
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Plowboy 10 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Plowboy 10 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 2017 at 9:58am
Hi, I finally got this project completed. The starter was inspected and needed new bushings and a new 6 volt starter solenoid. Someone in our camp site made 3/0 cables for both battery cables. I welded a 3/8 inch bolt to the side of the starter case and attached the positive cable to it. Well she cranked great and started right up. Took her for a ride and she is running well with a new tune up also. I will need to get a new water temp gauge as the one in there is broken,the ignition switch is broken and they use a screw driver instead of a key. Looks like the brakes do not work.I had to pull the generator regulator and filed the points as they were compromised when the 12 volts was used to crank her over. I had a new headlight switch installed and if memory serves me correctly pulling it out a little a small charge back to the battery and full lights on have a higher charge. I now only have 1 charging rate so assume that was fried too and needs replacement. Would like to get a manual for servicing the tractor. Any suggestions on a good manual to purchase so I can start checking fluids and adjusting things? See other gauges on her and do not know what they are for.Going to check out hydraulic lift arms on the back and see if they work. O.K. Thanks to all for your help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 2017 at 10:49am
We offer complete Starter and Generator service. Also offer restoration or exchange for the CORRECT 3 position Headlight/Charging switch (not the junky aftermarket one out there) Visit our website or give a call. Be glad to help you out with any questions...
Steve@B&B
bb-customcircuits.com
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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