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BackhoeBob 
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Peru,IN
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 Topic: D14 spin out rims
Posted: 18 Dec 2019 at 1:34pm |
Gonna bug you all again. My D14 has 12x26 power adjust rims. It has huge wheel weights on it. The rims are like most and are rusted bad from the calcium cloride.The fluid is still in them. They hold air somewhat. My problem is two fold. First what is the proper way to remove and reinstall these rims, without killing myself ? I've been told locally to remove all the eccentric body bolts after jacking the tractor up a bit, and just let it all fall apart. Also been told to somehow get the weights off and then remove the wheel to axle bolts . (would really hate to break one of those). I figure you people would know best. Big concern is gettin all the parts back together. The second part of this problem is the prices of new rims. I have found them for about $300. and several other places as much as $600 apiece. Is this a quality thing or just price gouging. None include shipping. I don't have money to waste, but don't want to buy a problem rim either.
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JimD
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Mounds, OK
Points: 2116
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Posted: 18 Dec 2019 at 1:53pm |
I've done several and i can tell you it's a job. I prefer to remove the wheel to axle bots if I can get around the weight. Lay tire flat and then get weight off. (usually under my A frame). Then remove the 8 eccentric bolts and I promise it will not "fall apart". Using a sledge hammer, beat the center out of the rim. Then everything will fall apart. disassemble the eccentrics (several write up on them here) and lube back up to re-assemble. Watch the for wedges inside the eccentrics. They seem to run and hide. As for price I hope I'm the lowest cost you found. Nearly all come from the same factory very close to me. The price difference is that some of us ship direct from factory, and some ship to their warehouse 1st. I save about $80-125 per rim by doing it this way, and pass the savings to you.
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Owner of OKtractor.com PM for an instant response on parts. Open M-F 9-6 Central. We have new and used parts. 877-378-6543
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
Points: 24644
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Posted: 18 Dec 2019 at 1:55pm |
OK, unless you HAVE to have power adjust rims, just grab some 'combine rims', cheap and they fit. I've got 3 on my D-14s, so 1/2 and 1/2..... 1) The pie weights are probably only held on by 1 bolt, so maybe, just maybe you can heat and remove. If not, cut/grind them off. Do the btm one first, then move tractor to get another at 6 oclock, remove, repeat. If you can figure a safe 'crane' or 'bench' , great. Them things are heavy and will ALWAYS fall towards your feet, so please be careful. 2) you can drain most of the calcium by removing valve at 6 oclock. 3) the 8 studs holding the rim will be fun. I broke a 1/2" breaker bar( using 6' extension). Once they 'crack' , they come off OK. Be SURE to supprt tractor on solid WOOD blocking do NOT use hollow cinder blocks !! You'll need a long 4by4 to whack the rear of a rim to free it off the hub. I support hte 4by4 on blocks so I can safely swing a sledge. 4) after that, roll tire/rim to a good spot, remove all the nuts/bolts and find the 'thread' here about it with pictures......
I'm sure someone will find it, maybe post the 'link' to it.
If re using the tire wash them really,really good ! Think they're clean ?? Do the lick test ! run finger on inside of tire and taste it. Salty ? wash again !!
BTW do NOT try to catch a loaded tire !! If it gets away from you GO THE OTHER WAY!! Let it fall !!
Jay
UPDATE !!!! forgot to add.. look very carefully at the centers where the weight bolts go through !!!! I've got 3 here, all with fractures from the square holes. I assume they were caused by loose bolts allowing the weights to go bang,bang,bang..they could be welded but I went 'combine' instead...
Edited by jaybmiller - 18 Dec 2019 at 4:03pm
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)
Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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johnkc
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Joined: 22 Sep 2009
Location: KCMO
Points: 728
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Posted: 18 Dec 2019 at 2:05pm |
Cooks in Clinton mo. has used ones for 200.00 ea. I had good luck on the 38's that I bought from them, only had surface rust.
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I support the development of hybrid automobiles and alternative fuels as I need DIESEL fuel for my ALLIS CHALMERS!
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GregLawlerMinn
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Lawler, Mn
Points: 1226
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Posted: 18 Dec 2019 at 2:37pm |
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Best to remove the tire/rim assy from the tractor first then remove the center from the rim as stated by Jim D. If stuck to axle, loosening the 8 bolts a little and driving it around some will generally free the rim from the axle. Best to use a 4x4 block when beating the centers loose. Don't have any advice as to removing the weights from the rim, but it would be easier to remove the tire/rim from the tractor if they were not there. Freeing up the eccentric bolts will be a challenge once you remove them from the centers. Others can provide advice on freeing them. Unless you want to retain the ability to adjust the rear tire width, the combine rim suggestion may provide the cheapest alternative.
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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC
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BackhoeBob
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Peru,IN
Points: 46
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Posted: 18 Dec 2019 at 4:18pm |
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Once again. Thanks so much. great advise ,plus a great step by step video. Can't get better than that.
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Sugarmaker
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Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 19 Dec 2019 at 8:27am |
Bob, Jay summed it up well. These can be a piece of cake to a all out war. I tend to get the battles on any I do. I have repaired six rims and another two for parts rims. Plus building a couple sets of rims with spacers for pulling tractors. You need to really get the rims sandblasted after you get them apart and the tires off. This will let you evaluate the rust damage. I am cheap and have welded up some rusted ones. But new rims would be way easier!:) Take lots of pictures! Be safe and dont plan on this being a hour project! Regards, Chris
Edited by Sugarmaker - 20 Dec 2019 at 1:32pm
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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john(MI)
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: SE MI
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Posted: 20 Dec 2019 at 11:48am |
I'm not sure I'm a fan of taking the valve core out with the tire at 6 o'clock. I would take it out at 12 and then rotate it to 6.
I had a piece of clear plastic tubing that fit on the valve stem to run the chloride away from the rim.
I have some hefty weights on my D14, I put them on with my cherry picker and a ratchet strap type strap. Just loosen them up and put the strap around it and them unbolt it the rest of the way.
I had 28" tires on my D14 for a while. They fit nice and look okay as well. If you need to buy tires as well, you may want to go this route and save yourself a few bucks.
Take off the weights, Then drain as much chloride as you can. Then take out the lug bolts and remove the tire and rim. Lay it on it's side and take out the 8 eccentric bolts and then smack the centers with a sledge and every thing should fall out.
Your biggest job will be getting the eccentrics apart. heat, large impact, a hammer and drift are the tools, two people helps. Put one in a vase, heat it up, and while running the impact back and forth, have the other person on the back hammer on the drift on the eccentric. Make sure you take the spring ring off the back of the eccentric.
Another alternative is to buy some already loose, such as the 8 I have!! 
To remove the tire, I usually back another tractor up to the tire, and place a utility jack under the drawbar and next to the bead, and jack it down. It's a lot of work to get the tire and tube off of a rusty rim.
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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frnkeore
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Joined: 07 May 2019
Location: Southern Oregon
Points: 362
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Posted: 20 Dec 2019 at 1:11pm |
This is a source that I like. 300 for the only 26 they stock https://www.heywheel.com/page3.html
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Frank
1959 D17 Series I #24001+, '59 D14
'55 & '59 Ford 850 & 861
Ferguson TO 35 Deluxe, Oliver 70 and 5 more.
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Sugarmaker
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Location: Albion PA
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Posted: 20 Dec 2019 at 1:31pm |
Ok Frank, Now you just up and did IT! Even with this improving head cold I am going out and work on those darn rims! I should be doing 17 other things or just taking a nap here on the coach in the sun like a a old squirrel ! But after seeing the $300 cost each for the new rims I am out of here! Wonder what shipping would be to zip 16401? Actually not a bad price! Its a lot of work to get old rims back into good condition. And the new rim will last another 60 years so thats only $10 per year! Heck I will have half that in the work I am doing on old junk rims too! Might just take the nap, now that I have calmed down a bit! Whee about wore me out there! Did Bob get the wheels off yet?:) Regards, Chris
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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frnkeore
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Location: Southern Oregon
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Posted: 20 Dec 2019 at 5:24pm |
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I talked to HeyWheel today. They are in KS and try to slip what they can, UPS. Even then, it's expensive and he said things going East, are a little cheaper than going West.
They also have repair parts .
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Frank
1959 D17 Series I #24001+, '59 D14
'55 & '59 Ford 850 & 861
Ferguson TO 35 Deluxe, Oliver 70 and 5 more.
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LeonR2013
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Joined: 01 Jan 2013
Location: Fulton, Mo
Points: 3500
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Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 9:26pm |
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Bob, if the lug bolts don't want to come out take a sledge and whack the head of the bolt. Two or three licks may do it. It cracks the rust so your impact will take them out. Don't worry about smashing the head of the lug bolt because you can set your socket on the head and drive it on. Turn it a little then spray the heck out of it, then back and forth and it will soon come out. Leon
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john(MI)
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Location: SE MI
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Posted: 22 Dec 2019 at 9:35pm |
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If you can get to the backside of the hub and wire brush the ends of the lugs it will help.
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D14, D17, 5020, 612H, CASE 446
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