D-14 hydraulics problem

The D14 hydraulic lift gradually quit working just as I was finishing a couple day project of regrading our sons backyard. Timing was great; we had to manually raise the landscape box before loading the D-14 onto the trailer. The trans dipstick is 2" above normal level; so assume the failure is in the hose to the hydraulic cylinder in the rearend. Anything special for someone who has no experience on such project?  And ok to just drain off the extra oil, or should the trans be completely drained and refilled with correct oil? All responses appreciated. Herb

Could be hose or packing. I would replace both while inside it. Also a couple of others bits of help. Don't twist the hose, should be a strip down it's lenght so you can tell. Make sure it doesn't rub anything inside. Replace the rubber Oring at ram anchor pivot. HTH Tracy Martin

Herb, check your traction booster valve to be sure it is not stuck.  Usually they stick in the up position, but I'd check it before draining.

I replaced the hose on my neighbors D14 earlier this year...he had been trying to get away with it for years....but the leak kept getting worse and worse and the trans was leaking everywhere from being overfilled and ruined his brakes. Works like new now though.

Herb, if you had the TB working, it most likely is not stuck.  It usually sticks because of not using it for a while after getting it caked with mud or snow.  The valve has a linkage connected to that big ed spring on the snap coupler.   If you disconnect it and work it back and forth it is ok.  If it wont move, most likely stuck.  The TB lifts or lowers your hitch independant of your lift valve.  I had a D-12 with the TB stuck in the lift position.  We could only lower the implements with the engine off.  Once you started the engine, the plow raised to full height and would not lower.  I guess some bent linkage down there would be similar.  The only reason I mentioned it, is because I disassembled the whole three gang hydraulic valve system before I found it was the TB valve.  Three days work and the only thing I learned is those little balls and springs are hard to find when you drop them.


Wow, is that censored thing new?  I better go back and check my post on cleaning the manure spreader, it must look like an extortion note.


Edited by Dave Richards (WV) - 08 Dec 2011 at 2:08pm

If you need to get into the back end, there are a few seals that you should probably get so you have them.   I did this job on my D15 this summer as it was leaking hyd. oil.  Anyways, mine, the packing was shot on the cylinder.   I ended up buying the packing/seal kit from an AGCO dealer, along with the big paper seal that goes between the rear lift housing and the rearend.   The o ring that is on the rear ram pivot is a good one to do right away also.   And if it hasn't been done in awhile, the seal on the pto shaft is a good one, along with the oring behind the bearing housing.   I had already done that one last year so that one was good to go.