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D14 12v Electrical Help

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RUBYD14 View Drop Down
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Joined: 22 Nov 2017
Location: Palisade,CO
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RUBYD14 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: D14 12v Electrical Help
    Posted: 16 Apr 2020 at 2:36pm
I purchased a single wire alternator and my ignition coil is only 1.5ohms. Does anyone know what alternator and ignition coil I can purchase from a parts store that will fit my D14 that is converted to 12v. Also any advice on adjusting the timing.
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jaybmiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 2020 at 2:44pm
you could just add a 1.5 ohm resistor between coil+ and distributor(points). a simple 'cheat' that works..... (12-6=6, 6v/ 1.5ohms=4 amps, 4 amps is the designed current for the points)
or
buy a 'true' 12 volt coil that says 'no ballast resirotr needed' on it.....
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 2020 at 8:05pm
In my opinion, it is WELL worth a little extra cash, $34 I believe last summer, to buy a Pertonix Flamethrower coil. They make them for 6 volt systems and 12 volt. It made a WORLD of difference in how quick my tractor fired up. Then if you ever decide to ditch the points for a Pertronix ignition, you already have the coil.
 I have always set timing by listening to the engine run.
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DSeries4 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 2020 at 8:45pm
Use a timing light to adjust the timing through the hole in the right side of the torque tube.  Never use your ear!
'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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RUBYD14 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RUBYD14 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Apr 2020 at 8:25pm
Thank you . I have the electronic ignition already and I purchased a 1.5 ohm resistor and put it on . Just yesterday I was disc ing my field and I suddenly lost spark and won’t start I believe it was my electronic ignition going out. What can cause this .
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Apr 2020 at 10:25am
If you have electronic ignition, why are you using a resistor? Put the right coil on it, matched for the system. Adding a resistor, in my mind, is adding trouble, though it may take time to show up. The adds I have seen for the electronic ignition systems, recommend a coil that works best with their product.
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Apr 2020 at 11:27am
The problem, from previous posts,  at least with the Pertronix ones, is that they don't have any protection from EMI or noise or 'dirty' power.
The reason of the additional reisitor is that the original coil is 6 volts and an 'electronic ignition' module probably only wants to be mated with a 12 volt coil. That will depend on the make/model of the EI unit.
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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RUBYD14 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RUBYD14 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Apr 2020 at 12:19pm
Originally posted by jaybmiller jaybmiller wrote:

The problem, from previous posts,  at least with the Pertronix ones, is that they don't have any protection from EMI or noise or 'dirty' power.
The reason of the additional reisitor is that the original coil is 6 volts and an 'electronic ignition' module probably only wants to be mated with a 12 volt coil. That will depend on the make/model of the EI unit.

My ignition coil is 12v with a ballast resistor and I have a good ground on the distributor
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Steve in NJ View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Steve in NJ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Apr 2020 at 6:33am
Ballast resistors didn't work under the hoods of 60's automobiles, never mind out in the elements on a Tractor. Loose that resistor and install a 3.0 Ohm coil that has an internal resistor in it. Keeps Mother Nature from playing havoc with the stupid resistor. Ballast resistors don't like high humidity and wet rainy days. The Pertronix coil is a 40K volt unit. It isn't neccessary to go with a Pertronix coil unless you want more spark. The E.I. units were designed to work with the OEM coils and they work and start up fine. The most important thing is if your still using the OEM 6V system, you go with the 6V coil. If its a 12V conversion (whether Generator or Alternator) you need 2.7-3.3 Ohms of resistance in the ignition circuit for 4 cylinders on 12 volts. The 3.0 Ohm coil fits smack dab in the middle, so that's the ticket for that application. We keep 6 & 12V coils in stock whether OEM replacement or Pertronix's Blaster 40K coil that Tuck mentioned if interested. The 40K coil is an optional choice. Your call there.  HTH
Steve@B&B
bb-customcircuits.com

BTW, one wire Alternators should be left for hotrods & automobiles. You actually should go to a three wire charging system. Most one wire Alternators can be changed to a 3 wire system just by wiring in the internal voltage regulator to the key switch to turn the VR on. This way you won't need to rev the engine to excite the regulator in the Alternator to get it to charge. It usually takes most one wire Alts 1200-1400 rpm in order to excite the regulator to start the charging process.  If you need help just e-mail me and I can help ya out with that....



Edited by Steve in NJ - 29 Apr 2020 at 6:38am
39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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jaybmiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Apr 2020 at 7:50am
this kind...
is kind of bulletproof.... 50 watt unit, though I used the 100 watt one from my stash of stuff..

Unlike the typical automotive 'open concept' ceramic resistor, the resistor is housed in a nice alumium case, so NOT prone to Mother Nature's revenge.

Solder a couple of wires on, heat shrink and it'll outlive you and your kids. One's been on a tractor here for 20 years so far....
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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