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D10 Log Splitter

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RAR45110 View Drop Down
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Joined: 15 Nov 2016
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RAR45110 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: D10 Log Splitter
    Posted: 12 Jan 2018 at 9:29am
Hi,

I recently purchased a D10 to do some work, lifting, etc.  It has a hydraulic pump on the engine and has two hydraulic vlaves in the back.  One is hooked up to the 3 point and the other is plugged.  I would like to purchase a 3 point log splitter and would like to know if it is better to buy one to hook up to the tractor hydraulics or buy one that uses the PTO.  If the tractor hydraulics are used, only 1,000 psi per the manual, how do I hook it up to the existing system and not deadhead the pump when not splitting?

Thanks in advance.

Bob
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GregLawlerMinn View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote GregLawlerMinn Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan 2018 at 12:16pm
The D10 (and all od the older Allis's) have 1 way hydraulics. You would have to do some replumbing and add another valve to convert to 2 way hydraulic. Unless you have need for 2 way hydraulics for other implements, a pto driven log splitter would be  the $$$ vialable option
What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
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RAR45110 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RAR45110 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan 2018 at 1:43pm
Thanks for your input.  Do you think that running a hydraulic pump off the PTO would be more powerful than the existing engine driven hydraulic pump?

Thanks,

Bob
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan 2018 at 1:57pm
really it'll be better and cheaper to just buy a gas powered log splitter and tow behind( or carry) . A 'small' 9HP log splitter will do a LOT of work, faster than you can keep up probably.
The problems with a 'tractor attached/driven' splitter include
1) costly plumbing..gotta have 'autokick off' valve,hose everywhere
2) safety .running tractor, hoses,location,stuff in general
3) gas..tractor uses more gas than 'self contained splitter'
4) access..how it's mounted to tractor is critical
5) repairs...kinda complicated
6) pump/tank..pressures/volumes...lotta math there
7)messy...potential for hoses/valves to leak,oil is slippery !
8)tractor hookup, 3pt can be a pain and now tractor is 'log splitter only'
9) tractor broke ? = NO splitting
I figure if you need to split a LOT of wood, you'd be better making /buying a 'wood processor' as they will greatly speed up production. If you're NOT into 'wood', then a $1000 splitter is better than a 3pt. Somehow spending 2 months splitting wood isn't 'fun' to me anymore...

best setup I saw was a $1000 splitter mounted on the tongue of a dump trailer.logs got split and tossed into trailer which makes a lot of sense ! Trailer had pintle hitch so no one could 'borrow' the splitter or trailer !!

Jay
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
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Gary Burnett View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Gary Burnett Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan 2018 at 2:15pm
Each to their own but with wood splitters I bit the bullet and bought a North Star
30 ton trailer type splitter at Northern Tool couple years ago.Has a Honda motor and works great.Yea it costs $1900 on sale but its been the best thing for me working up firewood since I traded in the buck saw for a chain saw years ago.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan 2018 at 6:35pm
I have to figure that a log splitter is one of them lifetime investments. Only gets used maybe 1-2 months of the year and pays for itself the first year. Treated reasonably nice(change oil, keep clean) it'll be handed down to the grandkids.
That's how I looked at the 5' rotatiller I bought 3 years ago,obviously 'overkill' for my wife's 90x270 garden but it's saved me a whack of time and it's fun to use! Life's too short to be using an axe and wedge on every log !
Jay
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan 2018 at 6:49pm
With the D10 original hydraulics and any store bought 3 point log splitter, you will have plenty of stand around time waiting for the cylinder to go out and come back. The Allis High Pressure Low volume system would be a waste of time for splitting, unless you buy a high pressure low volume cylinder for it. AND with the Allis hydraulics, you would have about 3 times the power that the store bought splitter was made to handle.
 I use to work for a guy that had a 3 point splitter. It was handy to move around, but used 5 or 6 times the fuel that a stand alone splitter could ever think of using.
 Dad, I and 2 brothers all burned wood and my brother built our splitter. With a 5 HP engine, it could do anything the 3 point one on a 170 Allis could do, and would run all day on a gallon and a half of gas. We used that splitter for 30 years with all of us getting the job done. The original USED engine was replaced after about 15 years and the second engine, a new 6HP Briggs is still on it. Only my youngest brother uses it now and it will last him till he can't cut or split wood anymore.
 The best part of a stand alone splitter is having a 2 stage pump for faster travel time without a load, and power to split when you need it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan 2018 at 7:01pm
Now, if you still want to use the tractor to power a splitter, all you have to do is connect the pressure side of the log splitter valve to the remote port on the tractor and add a tee in the hydraulic compartment drain plug, connecting the return to the sump of the tractor. Hopefully the splitter valve has a pressure relief in it, so you don't tear up the splitter. It will be SLOW though.
 I added a valve like this to the 8N Ford years ago, and ran the return line to the fill port of the hydraulic sump.
 
 I should add, the valve on the splitter would have to be open center, so you aren't making the tractor hydraulics bypass when the splitter is in "neutral" position.


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 12 Jan 2018 at 8:03pm
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote john(MI) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan 2018 at 7:36pm
You say your pump is connected to the engine.  Do you mean like a front mounted pump running off of the crankshaft pulley?  Is there another hyd tank mounted somewhere?  You may be all set to run a splitter.  You will need a spool valve near the back or on the splitter I guess would work okay as well.  Sounds like all you need is the splitter.  Neighbor has one it works great. 

If it runs off of the tractor hyd, it should work as well.  I run a backhoe off of my D14 hyd and it moves right along at normal speed, so the splitter should as well.  All you would need is to make sure you don't deadhead the wedge.  If you are burning a lot of wood then you are probably using hard wood which usually pops apart as soon as you hit and go in an inch or two.

If you are not wanting to make a commitment before you know, maybe look around for someone that has one and see if you can try it.  Might also check around rental places, they may have one.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote HD6GTOM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan 2018 at 7:38pm
I have a 3 point splitter I run from my series 4 D17. It is slow. It is OK when I am splitting by myself. If grandsons are coming to help I rent one from the local True Value.   It will give 3 or 4 of us a good workout where with the 3 point we would do a lot of standing around.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jan 2018 at 8:53pm
dittos to what others said, too costly to convert...
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RAR45110 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RAR45110 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan 2018 at 7:10am
Thanks for your input.  My D10 is a very early one that  has the hydraulic pump on the right side of  the engine, driven off the cam, I think.  It has its own reservoir.  The two valves are located at the back right of the seat.  One is for the 3 point and the other is plugged.  Lift the lever, three point rises.  Put the lever at center, three point is stationary.  Drop the lever and the 3 point drops.

Thanks again!

Bob
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote tractorboy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan 2018 at 8:21am
I have owned 2 d-10's with that pump on the engine. they tend to be weak, and only get weaker with time. Looks like the P/S pump on a d-14. Only advantage,  they are "live".
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote 45 turboa- Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jan 2018 at 10:05am
We have a B with live hydraulics we mounted a front pump that drives off the crankshaft and a all hyd loader . also it works real good on the log splitter.
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