D 17 sires IV,,, help

Follow your linkage under your lift lever and see if plunger is stuck,spray with wd40 and see if it moves,probably stuck out

Move the height position control lever or the traction booster lever and watch what they do underneath. See which valve isn't moving and take a pair of channelocs and see if you can get in there and wiggle it. If you are lucky like I was it will pop free.

Sounds like the piston in the controls is sticking, one nearest fender in the valve stack if memory serves. Mine w/ 3-pt was barn find that reportedly had not been in regular use for many years. See if the piston is tracking the linkage when moved for/aft, if not lower arms and with tractor not running, remove rear cap via allen heads. Use brass or hardwood dowelling to reach in and move the piston, spray with your favorite go juice, move piston opposite way with control lever and repeat. Good time to inspect the "cintered" vent material on the back of the cap to make sure it is not plugged. Also follow all linkages as mine had a broken weld on a bracket where someone had forced it before I bought it. Re-welded, freed up the piston and arms operated smoothly.
Then get ready to have fun with the lifting pistons, packing leaks if it has been sitting. Have been told A-C replaced cylinders back in the day, with lift cylinders from the 190 as more robust.

Best to replace the original lift cylinders with the newer style from salvage 180, 185 etc. You'll save yourself a lot of misery. Yes, you can "fix" the originals but they will leak again.

No, leaking cylinders are not causing it to rise.  The problem is not with the valve, so screwing in the valve makes no difference.  The problem is with the traction booster LINKAGE that contacts the valve.  Look under the console and you will see this linkage (see picture below).  The cam on the right side is the culprit.  It should not be pressing against the valve when the traction booster is disengaged (lever pushed forward).  The cam should also move back and forth freely.  Over 40 some years, that cam has rusted to the bushing it rides on.  While some penetrating oil will help it, the best solution is to remove the cam, knock the bushing out, clean it out and then coat with anti-seize, then re-install it.  I have done this to all of my tractors which have this set up.

This post should be in the knowledge base section.

Thanks for the info Rodger, and to DSeris4, I have checked all that was suggested, I see where that one pivot point cold be froze up, and I worked it for a bit and took the back side off and no change moving that piston back and forth, i am guessing I will have to take it all apart to make sure it is moving freely and no broken welds up under there where I can't really see. 

Great news, I did as DrAllis said and it seems to be working now, it raises and lowers as it should, but bleeds down pretty quick while just moving it in and out of the barn, could this be caused by the leaking cylinders? And thanks for all the help