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Creating a new wire harness |
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Kaleb ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 18 Jul 2023 Location: Benton LA Points: 6 |
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Does anyone know exactly what wire gauge to use? I want to create my own harness for my D-14 i just picked up while i do a 6v to 12v conversion. I could buy a harness but I don't think it would be too hard to make my own.
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DSeries4 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7433 |
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If you do not know what gauge of wire to use, you should not be making your own harness! Get one already made - you will know the wires are sized properly and are plug and play. |
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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den/southern illinoi ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Sparta, Illinoi Points: 2058 |
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Suggest Steve at B & B for a good wiring harness. Den
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Own 4 wheel 20, 2-5015, 5020 and associated equipment and 2 electric forklifts. |
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85450 |
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minimum wire size is normally 18 gauge.... that will be for 5 amp circuits.. 16 gauge will do 10 amps... 14 gauge will do 15 amps and 12 gauge will do 20 amps.. Many will use 16 or 14 gauge wires for ignition, lights, alternator signal, just to be safe and not as easily damaged.... Of course you need 10 or 8 gauge for the alternator to battery....
If your going to have multiple head lights, you need bigger.. A BIG light might be 60 watts... X 2 is 120 watts... at 12 volts thats 10 amps... 16 gauge would be marginal.
The bigger is always safer.. but TOO BIG and you cant get the wires on the switches or stuffed into the fuse / switch box. |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85450 |
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I personally like to use 14 gauge for most wires in the harness...heavy duty, oversize for long life, not easily damaged, outside use... Just plan ahead and make sure they will all fit in the light switch box.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Steve in NJ ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11925 |
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As Steve mentioned, lighting circuitry along with ignition circuitry 14 ga is perfect. A little heavier than normal, but that's what I use through my wiring systems. For the Alternator, a 14 gauge fuse link off the output stud at the rear of the Alternator connected to a 10 gauge output wire will protect the Alternator if a short occurs. Being the small "D" series Tractors don't have a lot of accessories on them that pull big power, the 10 gauge output wire will work fine. Always go two gauge sizes down when using a fuse link. Also, a good place to install a 16 gauge fuse link would be at the Battery side of the Starter Solenoid that feeds the Ignition switch power. This protects both ends of the system. 12 gauge circuit for the Battery feed to the switch. If you're wiring up an Alternator, go with the three wire system. Much better for Tractors that work in the low rpm range. HTH Thanks Den for the referral. Wow Myron, pretty rude dude! If offer wiring systems if interested. Steve@B&B
Edited by Steve in NJ - 18 Jul 2023 at 5:47pm |
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Kaleb ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 18 Jul 2023 Location: Benton LA Points: 6 |
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@D Series4- You make a great point, something as serious as wiring could hurt someone. I have no issue wiring or following a diagram, but still learning the proper gauges for certain applications. This entire project is a learning opportunity for me and that is why I would like to build my own. Thanks for reading my post.
Thanks @den for the suggestion, I will reference the link. @Steve(ill) thanks for the guide, that will be super helpful. thats a great point about making sure it will fit through openings and the panel. I was thinking of going super overboard and making a 16 pin bulk connector so i can easily remove the gauge panel, removing it with the short wire lengths was really a pain in the butt. @Steve(NJ) in regards to your fuse suggestion, more protection couldn't hurt. Fuses are cheap, right now the only fuse on the tractor is for the lights. As far as I could tell for an alternator I can't see why you couldn't use a automotive one rated for the same AMP level? Most sites only have a one wire alternator choice. Edited by Kaleb - 19 Jul 2023 at 1:08pm |
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85450 |
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you can buy one wire or 3 wire.. You can use the older, larger Delco 10SI... or go with the NEWER Delco CS130, DENSO or MINI.... those can all be 3 wire or 1..
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Steve in NJ ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11925 |
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If you want to learn a lot about wiring, take a visit to our website. Up on the top header you'll see "More". When you go to that, a drop down window appears. "More Technical Info" is what you want to click on. Go into that category, roll down and start reading. There's a lot of information that I wrote many years ago in Hotrod & Streetrod magazines that is still all the same information that pertains to your Tractor as well. If you want to learn, there's a good start! Educate yourself. Makes for a good read. The difference between one wire and three wire systems, Voltmeter vs Ammeter, types of Alternators and how to ID them, wire gauge sizes-what and where to use them etc. Read all of that, learn, then design your wiring system. Doesn't cost ya a dime, just a little time...... ![]() Steve@B&B
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85450 |
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one option........... STEVE sells similar...
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Kaleb ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 18 Jul 2023 Location: Benton LA Points: 6 |
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Alright experts, please be patient with me as I know there are a lot of wire diagrams for the D14 out on the internet. This is how my brain works, i have to see it and understand it before i do it. If you could verify I have drawn it correctly before I start ordering wire and parts. I was going to draw this a couple more times to get it more neat but I didn't think i was going to improve any. My only question, does the solenoid need to be replaced to a 12volt?
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jaybmiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 24334 |
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Yes, solenoid either needs to be replaced OR add a resistor in series.You measure the solenoid coil's resistance (mine was 3.2 ohms ) , just buy a 3 ohm, 10 watt resistor and add it in series. Now the 'math' says 6 volts / 3 ohms= 2 amps. 2 amps x 6 volts = 12 watts ..but.... you're not applying power for too long, so resistor doesn't heat up. A 3 ohm, 25 watt resistor is 'technically' better..... I used what I had. I just did this last month when Troy's starter finally 'bit the bullet', naturally that was 4 days after I'd sold Milton, who had a new starter in him......Since Troy IS a '57 it's a 6 volt system and the easy option was to just get a new 6 volt starter, which has a 6 volt solenoid.
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21359 |
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Negative ground on an alternator. Switch wires on the coil to match negative ground. Switch wires on ammeter too.
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85450 |
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yea... buy a 12 v coil and a 12v solenoid to start... Alternator requires battery to be NEGATIVE GROUND... you dont need a Voltage Regulator if your using a MODERN alternator with INTERNAL regulator... is that 10 SI or a CS 130 or DENSO ?
something like this... but as mentioned, i would use 14 gauge wire instead of 16. ![]() Edited by steve(ill) - 31 Jul 2023 at 10:24pm |
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Kaleb ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 18 Jul 2023 Location: Benton LA Points: 6 |
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So my next question would be - would it hurt to keep the voltage regulator in the system? I have a modern alternator part number AB-418D. With regard to the fuses, do i use regular automotive type or fast burn fuses from the alternator to protect the system? I re-drew the diagram but I don't think you gents want to keep seeing my revisions.
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21359 |
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HOLD ON THERE BUNKY !!! You need to use (or not use) a regulator that is MADE for the alternator (if it even needs one) !!! You can't just connect a "regulator" to something that isn't made for it !!
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 85450 |
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Your alternator is a 1 wire, Declco 10SI ............... it does not need a voltage regulator at all... You run 1 wire to the amp meter... thats all.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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