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Coil Problem? |
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jyanna ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 31 Oct 2010 Location: Michigan Points: 29 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 29 Mar 2012 at 4:21am |
Was in the process of using my WD45 when it just stopped. Seems I'm not getting spark. I have electric to the coil. However, I'm not sure how to test the coil. That's my first question. Second, can a coil just fail? Thanks in advance!
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Ted J ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 Jul 2010 Location: La Crosse, WI Points: 18943 |
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From past experience, yes they can. Had quite a few back in the 50's-60's that way. The car just stopped. No warning, nothing. Sometimes after you let it cool down again, it would start again. But then when the temp got just right, bang, nothing.
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"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17 |
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Gerald J. ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636 |
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Use a test light on the distributor connection while cranking to see if the points open and close. Loss of spark could come from a shorted wire, condenser, or points not opening because of a worn rubbing block or a loose mounting screw. Stop cranking with the points open. Unplug the spark wire that goes from the coil to the distributor at the distributor end. Hold that a quarter inch from ground, like the block and use a jumper wire to connect and disconnect ground from the distributor primary wire connection. You should get a spark every time you open that ground. You could also stop cranking with the points closed, take off the distributor cover to use a screw driver to life the points arm away from the distributor cam to open the circuit.
One other possible failure is dirt on the points so they aren't closing. The wire check above will show that. With the distributor cap off, see that there's still metal parts on the rotor and that the posts inside the cap aren't too badly burned. All of these things can make for poor or no ignition. Gerald J. |
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Brian Jasper co. Ia ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508 |
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I'd look at the points and condenser before I just replaced a coil. Do Gerald's test, but make sure you're wearing a glove or have some sort of insulation on the wire end you touch. You'll get a nice surprise if you don't...
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Gerald J. ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636 |
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That surprise is why I called for a quarter inch gap. A good coil should jump half an inch but holding the wire you will get shocked through good insulation every time with a half inch gap. I suspected a truck coil once and on the bench I got an inch long spark, so I knew it was OK.
Gerald J. |
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Brian Jasper co. Ia ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508 |
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The low tension side will tickle a bit too when the circuit is opened.
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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Brian Jasper co. Ia ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prairie City Ia Points: 10508 |
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Yeah, somehow I was thinking the point side of the coil...
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"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian." Henry Ford
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jyanna ![]() Bronze Level ![]() Joined: 31 Oct 2010 Location: Michigan Points: 29 |
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Thanks! Good advice on what I hope won't be a shocking situation.
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 87674 |
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Normally i replace the condenser and point. Pretty simple and probably needs it. If still dont have spark, then get the coil.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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