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Charging troubles on my WD |
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NCAllisnut ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Shelby NC Points: 365 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 14 Dec 2016 at 1:01pm |
Hey folks, its been a while. I finished my WD in 2009, and it has been on parade duty and used to ride around the field some since then. I put an engine from a Gleaner model E in it, and used the generator. It will only charge at pretty high rpm, which is not ideal for parades. I'm thinking about putting an alternator on it, hoping for more reliable charging. I don't want a big delco hanging off the side of the radiator shroud. Any hints on a suitable compact one wire alternator?
This was a few years ago, but I know we all like pics! ![]() |
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DougS ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
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Is it a generator with a regulator or a generator with a cutoff? Yes, alternators do better at charging at lower RPMs. Besides that, most alternators have more capacity than your average generator.
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NCAllisnut ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Shelby NC Points: 365 |
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Generator with a voltage regulator. And a wiring harness I built myself. I don't have any pictures handy showing the electrical, and it has gotten dirty in the 7 years or so since I finished the overhaul, but overall it has done well. The lack of reliable charging is the only downside.
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jaybmiller ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Greensville,Ont Points: 24419 |
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I've got CS-130 alternators on all 4 of my D-14s,used original fan belt and pulley from genny, no snipped tin !
Alternators were free from scrapyard,just be sure to get the connector ! Jay |
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3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor) Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water |
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DougS ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
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How much voltage is the generator putting out at high idle? If it's not even hitting near 7 volts (I assume this is 6 volts) the generator may be at fault. BTW, is this a 6 volt or a 12 volt system? If it's already 12 volts changing to an alternator would be easy. Otherwise you need to jump through a few hoops.
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NCAllisnut ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Shelby NC Points: 365 |
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12 volt system... I have to throttle up to almost wide open to get it to start charging, then can throttle back some, maybe half throttle, and it will still charge.
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Stan IL&TN ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Elvis Land Points: 6730 |
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Speak with Steve at B&B. He has what you need and the bracket/mount so no tin snipping.
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1957 WD45 dad's first AC
1968 one-seventy 1956 F40 Ferguson |
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Steve in NJ ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11950 |
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Make sure the VR chassis is grounded. Run an aux. wire off the foot of the VR to a good clean chassis ground. There could be a couple reasons why the Gennie has to be zoomin' to charge. Bent brush holder, dirty com plate. etc. If you wanted to move to a small Alternator, we offer the pint size CS121 series Alt, or our new Mini 3 wire Alternator. If you go with that, we have a CNC machined pulley to fit that smaller shaft for 5/8 belt... If you visit our website you can see the pics of the Alternators.
Steve@B&B |
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Gerald J. ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636 |
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The generator takes the same pulley as an alternator. You should be able to find a small diameter wide alternator pulley and spin the generator faster. Kind of sounds like its a 6 volt generator with a 12 volt regulator. For a fixed field current, the output voltage of a generator is directly proportional to the shaft speed. The small pulley will probably require a fan belt an inch or two shorter.
There are very few alternators around that are positive ground so if you go to an alternator you will have to change the polarity of the battery, the ammeter, and the ignition coil. The 30 amp ammeter will be pegged by the smallest alternator so you probably want to put in a 50 or 60 amp ammeter with 6 gauge charging circuit wiring. I'm using a 10SI (fat alternator) on my gas 4020 in one wire mode and with that smallest available pulley I have to get the engine up to 1650 to start charging, but after that it charges at the slowest idle just fine. Just needed the goose to start. Adding a wire with a diode, lamp, or resistor from the ignition circuit eliminates that need to spin it up to start charging. The CS130 alternators are slimmer and easier to install. Yes on that vintage tractor the alternator is not original, but with the internal solid state regulator it is much better on batteries nearly doubling battery life by the rapid charging but not overcharging and not taking reverse current from the battery at slow engine speeds like the generator with cutout (cutout is part of the three unit magnetic regulator). Gerald J. |
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8445 |
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Hi,
I just put one of the smaller alternators on a different color machine. Its a nippondenso (sp?) I have the numbers some where. I liked the size, not the price!:) But what a nice small package. Should work well on a WD too. If I can help let me know. I also did change all three WD's to std GM type three wire alternators and love the way they start and charge! Regards, Chris Edited by Sugarmaker - 14 Dec 2016 at 8:11pm |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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DougS ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
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That's the way to go, Sugarmaker. There's no need to put an 80 amp alternator in place of a 20 amp generator. The small nippondenso alternator is a good choice.
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Gerald J. ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636 |
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For tractors used only for a short time doing chores, the quick charge of the 50 amp alternator is a benefit. The 20 amps of vintage generators can take half a day or more to charge from a tough start meaning its intended to work the field most all day per start which isn't happening for chores.
Gerald J. |
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8445 |
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I think they shop said the nippodenso was about 30 amp. In the application below I was able to use the same pulley that came on the new alternator. I did change to a volt meter (was a ampmeter) and moved over to a positive ground system too. Of course a new bracket was needed to support and align the alternator, along with revised belt tension bracket. Still well worth the effort.
Some shots of the change over on a 1952 IH TD6 ![]() ![]() Regards, Chris |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Gerald J. ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636 |
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That voltmeter is simply decoration, the ammeter tells you more but is a bit messier to install needing bigger wires for the alternator. A voltmeter can tell you there is enough voltage in the system (where ever it is connected) to charge the battery but won't show if the battery is connected good enough to take a charge or crank the engine. A good voltmeter needs to have at least 0.1 volt resolution and be connected directly to the battery, but then with ignition switch off it will run the battery down.
I doubt you can run that alternator with positive ground, it should be negative ground the SAE standard since about 1963. Gerald J. |
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8445 |
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Gerald,
You are correct I changed this to negative ground. My mistake. Volt meter vs amp meter? I am not a electrician! This system seems to work for me. Have not had any dead batteries yet. But depending on how long I live, there may still be time. Regards, Chris |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8445 |
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Why in the world would a company make a volt meter that would intentionally run the battery down? That just doesn't seem right! Regards, Chris |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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Roscoe62 ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 22 Aug 2014 Location: Louisville Points: 145 |
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corbinstein ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 31 Jul 2014 Location: Oklahoma Points: 796 |
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Actually most Alternators charge around 14.7 Volts.
And Most 12V batteries are fully charged around 12.3 or so Volts. AND when discharged are somewhat lower, 11.3 or less... So a Voltmeter if properly calibrated and placarded with tickmarks around these numbers will be helpful. In addition to an ammeter if possible. Also the Voltmeter should be on a switched source, not direct to the battery, as over time, it's possible that it will run down the battery.
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Steve in NJ ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Andover, NJ Points: 11950 |
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Its not the Voltmeter that runs the Battery down. If an Alternator is hooked directly to the Battery, the Alternator can slowly steal millivolts from the Battery. If it sits long enough, it could eventually bring the Battery down low enough to where it won't have enough reserve in it to fire the engine. And again, a Voltmeter is much safer than an Ammeter when using an Alternator. The Voltmeter is as simple as the Tractor. All you need to know is the normal charging range for any 12V system is 13.9-14.5. Ideal is 14.2. Anything higher or lower than that range the system isn't charging (if lower) over charging (if higher) Pretty simple. With a small amp Alt, you could run a 60/60 sweep Ammeter to be in the safe zone if you wanted to stick with an Ammeter...
Steve@B&B |
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39'RC, 43'WC, 48'B, 49'G, 50'WF, 65 Big 10, 67'B-110, 75'716H, 2-620's, & a Motorhead wife
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Gerald J. ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636 |
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Good alternators charge at 14.200 volts. That is the charging voltage for a staring battery with full charge 1260 specific gravity. Such a standard battery connected to a voltage regulated source will draw as much current as the source can supply when it needs charging and is first connected to that source. As the internal battery voltage rises towards 14.200 the current goes down and when the specific gravity gets to 1260 from charging, the current tapers to ZERO. And by the ammeter indicates it is fully charged. To get that true information from a voltmeter that volt meter needs to be connected to the battery posts. It takes energy to make a rugged automotive voltmeter work, unlike the microamps for a Simpson 260 multimeter, but the 50 microamp meter movement of the 260 will not survive on a tractor, too much vibration and too much moisture. In the real world such a voltmeter connection would require a relay powered by the ignition circuit to connect and disconnect the voltmeter from the battery. Way more complex than good ammeter wiring.
The battery voltage does go down when disconnected from the charging source even with no load, typically down to about 12.6 volts in a few hours. Voltage drops as it is loaded and when most of the available energy has been delivered it gets down to about 11 volts and for the same load the voltage falls much faster than it did with more charge available. The magnetic voltage regulator typical of 40s, 50s, and 60s vehicular and tractor electric systems by SAE standard was allowed a plus or minus 1/2 volt tolerance. A 1/2 volt low leads to a battery never fully charged and a half volt high caused much loss of water from the electrolyte and so lots of battery maintenance required. In time the SAE standard has required more precise voltage regulation easily achieved with solid state regulators (my first one I built about 1968 and it doubled battery life in that car) and standard with the internal regulators of the 10-SI and later Delco alternators. A voltmeter is definitely easier to wire than an ammeter but I claim gives very little information. That car that I built the solid state regulator for (putting a 12 volt VW engine in a 6 volt car) had lab quality voltmeter and ammeter and the ammeter was much more informative before and after the engine swap. That 14.200 volts is perfect for a battery at 68 degrees F, the perfect voltage rises as the battery temperature rises or falls. A good regulator may take that into account, mine did purely by accident. Steve and I have disagreed on the lack of benefits of a voltmeter for many years. The factory "voltmeter" in the dash of my '98 F150 has two calibration points, 10 and 18 volts, nothing in between. A pilot lamp or the dash lamps would give as much information. There is nothing but diode mounting and wiring in an alternator that sets the polarity. It shouldn't be hard to make one for positive ground. Somewhere I have a Leece-Neville truck alternator that isn't grounded so it can be wired externally for either polarity. At least in the US since about 1963, the SAE standard has required only negative ground for vehicle and tractor electric system. I believe that to be a result of transistor radios and two way that are instantly destroyed by reversed polarity, where a tube radio just didn't function with reversed polarity. There are no fuses fast enough to protect a transistor radio from reversed polarity, but there are circuits that can do that. Fuses are reliable indicators of blown transistors from abuse like reversed polarity. Since the SAE standard is negative ground since the 60s, very few alternators have been made with positive ground. The automotive industry argued about the best polarity from the beginning of battery operated starters in the 1920s and some used positive ground, some used negative ground until the SAE standard quit allowing positive ground. There never was a point made and proven that either polarity was superior in function, just transistor radios survived better and with everything negative ground there was less change of a neophyte jumping with the wrong polarity which can be dangerous causing batteries to expand very rapidly spraying acid all over the neophyte and the vehicles. Gerald J. |
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Sugarmaker ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Jul 2013 Location: Albion PA Points: 8445 |
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Lots of good info! Did we help the originator of this thread? Hope so!
Regards, Chris |
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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DougS ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 03 Nov 2011 Location: Iowa Points: 2490 |
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Generally you'd put the voltmeter on the ignition switch. If you have a magneto you wire a switch anyway. |
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ac hunter ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 05 Jan 2011 Location: OHIO Points: 1042 |
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Steve has converted two 6 volt generators to 12 volt for me and they work great. That way you retain the original look of the generator and get a 12 volt system. Need to do a little different wiring but Steve will guide you through that.
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