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Ceiling sheetrock questions

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JimD View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Ceiling sheetrock questions
    Posted: 14 Apr 2020 at 9:41pm
So my new polebaen house has the trusses on 48" centers. I've been putting 2x4 on edge between at 24" oc to hang sheetrock for ceiling. If I could lay the 2x4 flat to the trusses it would.save cutting, but only give me 1.5 inches of thickness and I suspect it will eventually sag. Anyone disagree? Ir is there an easier way?
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Red Bank View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Red Bank Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Apr 2020 at 9:59pm
I realize it’s a house but are you set on Sheetrock? In my shop we set the trusses on three foot centers and to keep from buying 9’ osb or Sheetrock we used aluminum colored roofing tin. I get a lot of comments about it. Plus being in a shop it added to the fire protection. I then went In the attic and blew around 14” of insulation and haven’t had any issues. Just an idea
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Stan IL&TN View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stan IL&TN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 2020 at 2:02am
I'm no expert and didn't even sleep at a Holiday Inn Express but I would be concerned about having that much weight using sheetrock on trusses 48" apart unless they were designed to carry it.  I think the roofing tin would be a good option as Red Bank said.
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Thad in AR. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thad in AR. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 2020 at 5:36am
Jim I assume you are running the 2x4s length wise giving a 4’ span?
If that is the case I do believe it will sag in time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 2020 at 6:01am
1st. contact truss maker and see IF they're rated to have sheetrock(drywall) screwed into them. IF they are, screws need to be 12" apart,NO more...weight issue...
2nd. I wouldn't have sheetrock. HUGE weight factor and 'organic', meaning mold WILL form when humdidity(water) happens.
3rd, you'd have to primer and paint..that adds a LOT of cost and time and labour. if your labour is free, I've got 3 years worth of odd jobs you can do for me Wink

seriously.... prepainted white 'tin' is THE way to go,same as the walls. Overall it'll be cheaper,faster and in ONE step it'll be DONE. Rent a skyjack and 3 guys.....2 up one down.
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JimD View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 2020 at 9:45am
I appreciate the input.  The trusses are engineered, not shop built.  tops and bottoms are 2*8 with 2x4 spanning between.  I haven't asked the trussbuilder, but the barnbuilder told me he has had several done with sheetrock and they did fine. In fact, We are friends with one of his other customers and they went full rock and are very happy.
I'm kinda OK with the sheet metal, don't see the wife buying it.  I'll toss out a line and see how she reacts.  Anyone care to come convince a mother of 7 she needs to change her mind?

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jaybmiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 2020 at 11:56am
re: Anyone care to come convince a mother of 7 she needs to change her mind?

here's one way....
the 'engineered' trusses aren't 'sheetrock' capable( NOT in the specs....)
roof gets a minor leak
water drip in
'dampens' the sheetrock a few times...
next rain, sheetrock soaks up too much water
sheetrock falls down OVER where her two youngest are playing
.....
Ok this is a long shot BUT the scenario IS valid.......
yeah it'll take a few years, maybe, depends on lotsa things...

Jay
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 2020 at 6:34pm
Jim, i would agree with the 2 x 4 standing on their side on 24 inch centers. Lay them down and they will bow, probably more than 1 inch...... Even if you use the tin, still need the 2 x 4 standing on their sides.... 4 inches tall.
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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DMiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 2020 at 7:55pm
Built my workshop and spec'd truss for Ceiling covering. They stated would require 2'OC for sheetrock and with cross bracing 4'OC for tin. Added the truss to go 2'OC and still went tin, tin roof is set on 3/4" t&g waferboard over sealant paper to reduce chance leaks. Shop is only 30' deep.
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Adam Stratton View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Adam Stratton Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 2020 at 8:58pm
We did a similar deal for my house 13 years ago. I had trusses at 2' knowing i was going to hang sheetrock. I have a 40' span, and I am convinced my trusses move from winter to summer. I "hid" my problem by using large crown molding, but it is noticable if you are looking. I've had people try to convince me that it's a foundation issue, but there are several places you can see the angle from one truss to another.

I dont have good advice, but I would do it differently if I could go back in time
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HD6GTOM View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HD6GTOM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 2020 at 9:07pm
On 24" it will sag. 16" not so bad. I use light weight rock on the ceilings. I bought a sheetrock Jack many years ago. I hung all the rock on her 12' ceilings with it. I an gonna use it to hang light steel or aluminum in my shop.
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shameless dude View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shameless dude Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 2020 at 11:57pm
I hate drywall....tounge and groove wood???
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SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 2020 at 2:49pm
I bet you can't keep tape joints together...my experience 16in ctr 24ft span.theres a lot of movement from summer to winter
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 2020 at 3:13pm
1st coat of 'mud' HAS to be Durabond90 or 45..... regular 'mud' is useless as a 'bonding ' agent....
and ,you'll still have a mold issue with drywall/sheetrock.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FREEDGUY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 2020 at 6:01pm
Originally posted by jaybmiller jaybmiller wrote:

1st coat of 'mud' HAS to be Durabond90 or 45..... regular 'mud' is useless as a 'bonding ' agent....
and ,you'll still have a mold issue with drywall/sheetrock.....
Have you got ANY idea of how many residential garages (un heated) are put up in this area per year?? 95% of them are only "fire taped" with NO paint at all, and I'm trying to understand your "truss" specs Confused ? Never seen an issue with mold either. Seems like a truss engineered for 4' spacing would be built a WHOLE lot beefier than a truss designed for 2' centers ??
To the OP, run 2x4's vertically every 24" and put 5/8" fire code rock on the ceiling Wink
There's a show on one of our cable channels called "Holmes on HOMES", what a joke LOL !!


Edited by FREEDGUY - 16 Apr 2020 at 6:03pm
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den/southern illinoi View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote den/southern illinoi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Apr 2020 at 6:26pm
No matter what the spacing, a truss is built to carry a certain load. Actually there is a roof load which includes the roofing surface such as tin, plywood and shingles, etc plus expected snow load for the area. Then there is a ceiling load. You can get trusses for 8 (eight) foot centers that can have sheetrock and insulation installed on the ceiling. Only the truss company that made the truss can tell you what they built. Spacing itself has no bearing on what it will carry for a load. This is from 40+ years in the building business. Den

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Apr 2020 at 3:01pm
yeah, up here a million buck house... an 'entry' house only has tape and 1coat of mud in the garage....sigh...never understood that,though it's minimum code.. You'd think a primed/painted garage would sell the house better. Same as spray forming the garage, as 'bonus' room or master is above it....
Holmes is a love/hate guy. The 'contractor' hates him as Holmes does build better than minimum code and has actually gone after  contractors who did bad. while I don't agree with everything he does or how,  he's a LOT better than the clowns that built the 30 million buck subdivision down the road....
Roof trusses in my shop are 12 foot on center. They will break with too much 'ceiling' load on them. One did, still is, even after the 'contractor' rebuilt better than new....
Mold... get a hole in the roof..drip,drip,drip...hits the drywall, mold grows eating the paper(organics).YOU don't see it, until drywall gets really,really soggy and falls down....
3 D-14s,A-C forklift, B-112
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Never burn your bridges, unless you can walk on water
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