CARB FIXED - First start of Allis C

Couple questions: (FYI- I have never had this thing running, bought in pieces, she is back together, looks great, going to fire it up soon)



Edited by easygoin4 - 03 Dec 2015 at 5:00am

With everything being apart and you not having started it this is always a interesting point. First suggestion is go slow and don't question everything. Dont start taking things apart.I know I have been here before too.
You have built and assembled it to a condition that is probably better than when it was new. You may have one little thing, like no ground that is causing your starting issue. Go over the electrical with a continuity tester and or multi-meter to make sure you have power.
I don't have one of those pull switches, so cant answer if the light should come on?
And I always have electrical issue, Just me and my lack of knowledge.
I am sure you can hand crank the engine but not sure it will prime the oil pump? Someone like Dick L will be along to answer that. If you have plenty of lube as assembled then I would just start it up and check oil pressure gauge.
I think once you find the issue it will be pretty simple.
We could use a couple pictures too:)!
Regards,
 Chris

The light switch is normally a three position switch. In should be low charge, mid position is for lights and all the way out for high charge. Best I remember the lights could be turned on without tractor running. Leon

I beg to differ.  That is a beautiful tractor!  Very nice attention to detail.  Nice work!

nice!

easygoin4 wrote: I purchased used box with 3 position light switch, new Amp meter and Mag shut off. If I pull the light switch all the way out should the lights come on NOT RUNNING. I tried pushing the starter button too and nothing.  Brand new battery but will check voltage.

Hmmm... IIRC the lights should be connected so they operate in an off(in) on (first position) and off (second position). Sounds like wire swapped.

Pushing starter button and nothing... well, that's the simplest circuit on the planet... you've got one side of the battery grounded, the other side to starter switch. When switch closes, you have a current path going from battery, to starter switch, through starter switch, through starter windings, to ground, and back to battery.

Something on that path is incomplete.

I would look at all your connections, particularly the ground wire connection to the tractor, and the nose of the starter, as these are very necessary contact surfaces... if there's paint on them, you won't be carrying current on the ground side of the circuit.

Since this is a C, I would also check the starter switch contacts. very frequently, the starter switch contacts on Bs and Cs, become intermittant or fail, yielding a no-response-to-starter-switch condition. one can eliminate this as a problem by disconnecting the battery, removing the starter switch, and applying a jumper cable to the battery post, and the other end to the contact surface on the starter. MAKE SURE that the tractor is chocked and out-of-gear, so that if the starter turns the engine over, the tractor doesn't drive over you..

"It's not a show tractor"

What a crock!! LOL! Looks like a show tractor to me. Good job.

Hervey

I agree...that is a sweet little tractor again! nice job!

On the light switch, the guys pointed out the correct information on how it works. Also, I would like to add, that make sure where the switch is bolted inside the instrument box that it is clean and free of paint under that switch. This switch is a multi-function self grounding switch, and it needs to have a good ground in order to work correctly for the charging side of the system. New paint makes a great insulator.
As for priming it with the hand crank, I doubt very much if that will work unless you have an arm like Superman. I always pour oil down the oil pump pipe and fire it up. Your no start condition sounds like a connection that isn't clean or is insulated from the new paint job. Its probably something simple. You'll find the problem...
Steve@B&B

Thanks for all the advice and compliments...

I had similar problem with lights on the Massey I recently did, too much paint.LOL
So this time I took a wire directly to the ground bolt (which may still need paint removed) and wired the light switch, front and rear lights dierectly to this to be sure I had a good ground.
Yes ran 2 wires to each fixture...

I am sure its a contact thing for starter, but will open box back up and test every circuit- Love a challenge..
Thanks agian to all of you..

Will let you know what I find..

Check the fuse in the box.

GaryL wrote: I had no idea the Model C was so small.  Bloody hell, I might as well add another to the list.

Gary,
You do need one of each!:)
Regards,
 Chris

When I install a 3 position switch I run a wire from the 10-24 stove bolt to the battery ground bolt on the post. That way I'm sure to have the switch grounded.

The Headlight/Tailight circuits get connected to the "S" terminal on the 3 pos. switch. Headlights will come on in middle position. Third position, lights out, high charge only. Your charging rate is fine...

The 6 volt systems worked for years fine ( with regular maint.) till people started replacing cables with "off the shelf" stuff NOT made for 6 volts. Cables NEED to be BIG, connections CLEAN , that means NO paint between starter and block and no paint between ground connection and block.