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dfwallis 
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 Topic: CA Project Pics
Posted: 05 Dec 2025 at 9:02pm |
 Sugarmaker wrote:
dfwallis,You are always busy with projects! Your blast vac is similar to the one I added to my old blaster. It helps a lot. The other thing is that I added a very bright portable light inside the cabinet also. Your plow project is coming along nicely! Regards, Chris and Cheryl |
I'll probably have to improve the lighting. I'll know better once I test the vac operation.
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1952 CA13092
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 05 Dec 2025 at 8:35pm |
dfwallis, You are always busy with projects! Your blast vac is similar to the one I added to my old blaster. It helps a lot. The other thing is that I added a very bright portable light inside the cabinet also. Your plow project is coming along nicely! Regards, Chris and Cheryl
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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dfwallis
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Posted: 04 Dec 2025 at 2:24pm |
12/04/2025 Status:
In order to complete assembling the plow, I needed two "locking" bolts that I didn't have. Dr P was sending me some, but had not received them (they may have arrived later after I left). So I made some out of stainless steel. I used some nice 1/2" "thumb" screws from McMaster-Carr. Chopped off the sides and top and hand ground to the right curvature. They actually fit the slots "better" than the originals. They are just a little long, but could shorten if it was needed.
I'm not quite happy with the way the plowshare attaches. The spacer section on one is not meeting correctly because I didn't get the bracket bent back quite right. I'll need to work on that a bit more.
I was hoping to get further along, but it was a bit chilly and I had motivation problems...:( I also had to wait for some parts. I originally intended to use stainless in strategic areas, but some of the bolts I bought were of such low quality, that they kept galling with only enough force to close the lock washer. I quashed that and got grade 8 bolts instead. Actually had to cut one off that hadn't even been tightened enough to keep the parts from sliding around. After I cut it off, I tried getting the nut off and could not putting it in a vice and using a 24 inch pipe wrench. It was firmly welded in place :(
It was leaf mulching time, but all of the mowers were broken. It was about to rain, so I tried to get one of the riders going. I replaced the two deck spindles (which were probably used on another one), sharpened the blades, cleaned, and painted. I also straightened the deck wheel brackets. I moved to the engine itself, replaced the battery and got it started, but the float was sticking and dumping a huge amount of gas into the cylinder. I cleaned the carburetor but all of the rubber gaskets were deteriorated. So I ordered a new carburetor for about the same price as a gasket set. It didn't arrive until the last day of the trip when I was trying to get things cleaned up to leave.
Since it was clear I wasn't going to get the rider fixed, I went to town and bought the lowest end push mower they had and mulched the main areas. It was very wet and things didn't mulch well.
I also took some of the Dunham Lehr disc tongue and rear gang mounts to the welder to be straightened up. He straightened the tongue brackets pretty well, but was unable to straighten the angle iron sections. Couldn't get enough heat on them. I opted to have him make some replacements I'll pick up in a few weeks.
I took the hydraulic cylinder to a shop for repair. He seemed optimistic about being able to repair it (even optimistic about locating a replacement head/cap section). He can also make one if needed. It's a pretty simple design in aluminum. Hopefully, that will be ready also to be picked up in a few weeks.
I put primer on various parts so they don't rust before I get around to painting them (including the above straightened brackets).
Edit: I also built a mounting system to add a vac onto the sand blast cabinet. This is the unit sold for the larger (vevor) blast cabinet. Was pretty easy to adapt. I liked it better than the small/puny one sold for this cabinet. I still can't operate it at the same time as the compressor though (inadequate supply current). I'll either have to run a long drop cord or work on getting the other leg of the 220 from the pump house to the barn. It's already probably wired, but does not seem to be energized at the pump house, which I'd have to dig up.
Edit 2: I designed some movement limiting bars for the hydraulic rams so that it's easier to use the single remote while leaving the 3pt mod in place.
Edited by dfwallis - 06 Dec 2025 at 2:27pm
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1952 CA13092
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dfwallis
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Posted: 26 Oct 2025 at 3:56pm |
10/26/2025 Status (9): I checked the second wiring loop into the barn to see if it was live and it appears to not be live. If I had run both legs of the 220 to the barn, then I could use one circuit for the compressor and the other for my sandblast cabinet vacuum (insufficient current on the 1 circuit to run both). I would have to dig up the pump house cover to figure out what the issue is. I think there was a fuse box in the pump house, but can't quite remember for sure. I wonder how many timber rattlers are in there 
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1952 CA13092
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dfwallis
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Posted: 26 Oct 2025 at 3:19pm |
10/26/2025 Status (8): The last item was to remove and start cleaning up the disc hydraulic cylinder. If anyone knows what brand this would be, please let me know. AI says they owned a company called "versahaul" which made the cylinders, but I didn't find any parts for those. The closest appearing end cap/gland/head I saw was for a bradco. There is some minor pitting in the barrel and on the rod, but the rubber O rings all look like new. There was only a very tiny amount of water that came out of the petcock. I ordered a new 10' hydraulic hose for it. The old one was 9'4" and consisted of two jointed sections, one 1/2" and one closest to the tractor 3/8" but with 1/2" NPT fittings. I'll probably buy a breather plug for it after I decide what I need. Hopefully the hydraulic shop will be able to identify it (but I have my doubts). In any case, they said they could likely get it going. The gland is broken at the very end where the retaining rings hold it in place. The inner retaining ring will be fine, but the outer one wouldn't really fit against anything. It isn't really clear that the inner ring isn't sufficient, though. I ran out of time to inspect this further. The gland is aluminum. It looks like it would be easy for a machine shop to duplicate or perhaps create a separate clip piece that can be attached.
Edited by dfwallis - 26 Oct 2025 at 4:09pm
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1952 CA13092
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dfwallis
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Posted: 26 Oct 2025 at 3:08pm |
10/26/2025 Status (7): The Dunham Lehr disc rims were not in good shape. One of them was completely mangled. Can't even imagine how it could get twisted that way (or the tongue crank handle). The other one could possibly be salvaged with a week's worth of work. I opted to order some new rims and had Pomp's put some trailer tires on them. This increased the disc value by 500% or more  The better one had a G78-15 tire on it which would have been sometime in the 1970s.
Edited by dfwallis - 26 Oct 2025 at 3:32pm
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1952 CA13092
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dfwallis
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Posted: 26 Oct 2025 at 3:02pm |
10/26/2025 Status (6): While waiting for plow paint to dry, I switched to some work on the Dunham Lehr disc. First thing was to free the nut from the tongue crank. That wasn't too easy, it was rusted on there pretty good. The threads below it were in really bad shape so rather than try to walk it across those, I cut it off just below the nut. It took a 24 inch pipe wrench and a 5 foot pipe and lots of PB Blaster to slowly walk it off (back and forth). There was little left to the threads outside of where the nut was at. Would not have been worth trying to clean up the threads, so I ordered a B7 grade (1-8) threaded rod and had it welded in.
I think it turned out pretty good. Without this, the tongue kind of just flops around. The actual end section that connects to the tractor (converts horizontal to vertical) is completely missing (I think it's just a U shaped piece). It might be somewhere in the barn. I'll look for it later. I did buy a nice trailer ball hitch that will work perfectly (but be a few inches longer).
I also removed and cleaned up the tongue section that the crank mounts to, but I'll need to get those two pieces straightened. I wanted to take all the parts needing straightened at once but I needed to order some 4-point torque sockets to get some parts off. I can't get wrenches on many of the square head bolts for various clearance reasons. The only other parts I've identified so far are the two rear square tubing sections that the rear gangs mount to. The very ends of them are twisted. I think I can easily replace those if they don't suit me. They are actually two sections of angle iron welded to form a square. The disc brochure for a Ground Chief (78) indicates that they switched out this practice so this disc may be a slightly older version of the disc.
Edited by dfwallis - 26 Oct 2025 at 3:24pm
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1952 CA13092
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dfwallis
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Posted: 26 Oct 2025 at 2:53pm |
10/26/2025 Status (5): The SMV bracket I made proved to be just a little too flexible. I used 3/16 flats. So I doubled up and added a second brace section to stiffen it up a bit. I think its good enough now. I had intended to make a diagonal brace, but the 3pt top link bracket would hit it in the "best" positions for it (the vertical rise about 2 inches to the left of the original vertical section). Flexing is now mostly from the 1/4" plate it's mounted to (I can strengthen that if needed).
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1952 CA13092
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dfwallis
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Posted: 26 Oct 2025 at 2:47pm |
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10/26/2025 Status (4): No pictures, but I also took the generator/regulator to the shop for testing. I could force it to come on but it never seemed to come on on it's own. I'm pretty sure that's just an adjustment issue, but the shop didn't like the make of the regulator and went ahead and ordered a US-made regulator. It seems to be working correctly now (finally).
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1952 CA13092
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dfwallis
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Posted: 26 Oct 2025 at 2:40pm |
10/26/2025 Status (3): The largest part of the trip was spent cleaning and painting the plow frame. There were a few areas that were severely pitted that I filled with weld material with epoxy in the pinholes. I didn't spend a huge amount of time on that but it came out looking pretty decent and much of the weld areas will be covered by various brackets anyway. I wanted something more solid and level for the brackets to sit against.
The pressure sandblast pot developed some severe leaks around the filler welds so I bought another siphon gun and siphoned directly from the media bag. It actually worked pretty good. I dropped the pressure pot off at a welder at the same time as I dropped the disc tongue crank. I mostly sandblasted the heavily pitted areas and the bolts that I didn't remove/replace.
Edited by dfwallis - 26 Oct 2025 at 3:28pm
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1952 CA13092
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dfwallis
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Posted: 26 Oct 2025 at 2:29pm |
10/26/2025 Status (2): I didn't get very far assembling the plow parts because the paint was drying so slow. It was down in the 30s a few nights, although it usually warmed into the 60s and 70s fairly quickly in the morning. I had also forgotten that I didn't finish these curved brackets because they were severely bent and I had to determine how they needed to be straightened. After a few days of drying they were still super sticky so I opted to switch to other things (generator/regulator, sandblast cabinet cart/setup, barn cleanup, Dunham Lehr disc).
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1952 CA13092
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dfwallis
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Posted: 26 Oct 2025 at 2:22pm |
10/26/2025 Status (1): I was able to acquire all of the plow parts I needed with the exception of two bolts.
The plow share is an 801 (soft centered steel) rather than an 807 (chilled iron). If I ever find an 807, I'll probably go ahead and get it. The MB extensions are not quite like the originals which have squared off ends with round corners, but I received two so will match. The PS was painted a cream color. I don't think that would be the case for a 1952 (if anyone knows otherwise, let me know). I did some minor sand blasting on these before painting.
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1952 CA13092
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dfwallis
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Posted: 20 Oct 2025 at 7:49pm |
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I started working on the Dunham Lehr gc78 disc. It appears that the disc was originally painted ac orange 1. No evidence of any other color. Apparently they painted whatever was wanted. Edit: The hydraulic cylinder does appear to be flambeau red. It's the only thing with any paint left. I only see orange in spots after cleaning grime off.
Edited by dfwallis - 21 Oct 2025 at 7:41pm
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1952 CA13092
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dfwallis
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Posted: 26 Sep 2025 at 5:17pm |
dfwallis wrote:
09/24/2025 Status (8): I also investigated changes to make to my tachometer design. After finding a convenient scope probe circuit that preconditions the high voltage secondary signal to a low level signal, I've decided to investigate using that circuit rather than my belly mounted flywheel sensor. It will require additional signal conditioning though since the polarity is reversed. I think I can solve that fairly simply. |
Unfortunately, the scope probe I chose attenuates the signal down to a ridiculous 0.2 volts which makes it a bit difficult to create a passive conditioning circuit (Schottky diodes are sort of working, but not symmetrically) . One website says it's a 1000 to 1 attenuation...another says 10000 to 1. 10000 to 1 is correct.
It's also capacitive and complicates connecting to "ground" in a positive ground system while also conditioning the output. The conditioning circuit is also highly susceptible to EMI because the signal level is so low in comparison to the noise.
But I've identified a better probe solution that is inductive which makes it easy to simply reverse the isolated connection leads (positive ground to negative ground). The output will be a 10-20vdc pre-conditioned "trigger" pulse. All I'll need to do is attenuate for the Arduino input level (hopefully).
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1952 CA13092
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dfwallis
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Posted: 25 Sep 2025 at 9:30am |
Sugarmaker wrote:
dfwallis,You might think about setting up a Electrolysis tank to assist in cleaning some of your plow parts. Regards, Chris and Cheryl |
I've done that before. I may try it out again. I'm almost completely done with the plow, aside from the frame itself. The Dunham Lehr (GC78, 7'4") disc is next, but I don't think I'll do much with that before next spring. Maybe get the rims/tires in shape (or replaced). Take the crank handle to get straightened.
Edited by dfwallis - 25 Sep 2025 at 11:10am
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1952 CA13092
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dfwallis
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Posted: 25 Sep 2025 at 9:29am |
CA13414 wrote:
Awesome progress. It is fun to watch it come together.
Love all your creative ideas.
Dan |
A guy can accomplish a lot with stone knives and bear skins (inadequate tools) :)
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1952 CA13092
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dfwallis
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Posted: 25 Sep 2025 at 9:28am |
steve(ill) wrote:
Gary, sounds like long term you need MORE POWER to the shed... 1000 watts on 120v is only 8 amps... Dont know what size wire you ran out there ... probably just a 14 or 12 gauge Romex ?? Sounds like you need to put in a 8 gauge 220v like from the dryer supply ? 30 or 40 amps would give you a LOT of room for several items / equip. |
The pump house is fairly close to the barn. The main problem is the 220v buried wiring to the pump house is undersized. Dad investigated what it would take to wire the barn but the REMC said it was too far and he would need to set new poles (probably at least 2 ($$$$)). He didn't want me to run wiring from the pump house, but I didn't like running a drop cord from the pump house in the ice and snow to the barn to run the drill press and welder and flickering florescent lighting. He rebuilt multiple model Ts, Thunderbirds, tractors that way. The 12 gauge romex was intended for outlets and lighting inside the barn. It's been sitting there waiting to be used for about 25 years. One day...
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CA13414
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Posted: 25 Sep 2025 at 7:12am |
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Awesome progress. It is fun to watch it come together.
Love all your creative ideas.
Dan
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Helping the aged survive and thrive! 1953 CA
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Sugarmaker
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Posted: 25 Sep 2025 at 6:46am |
dfwallis, You might think about setting up a Electrolysis tank to assist in cleaning some of your plow parts. Regards, Chris and Cheryl
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D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
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steve(ill)
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Posted: 24 Sep 2025 at 10:38pm |
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Gary, sounds like long term you need MORE POWER to the shed... 1000 watts on 120v is only 8 amps... Dont know what size wire you ran out there ... probably just a 14 or 12 gauge Romex ?? Sounds like you need to put in a 8 gauge 220v like from the dryer supply ? 30 or 40 amps would give you a LOT of room for several items / equip.
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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dfwallis
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Posted: 24 Sep 2025 at 2:48pm |
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09/24/2025 Status (8): I also investigated changes to make to my tachometer design. After finding a convenient scope probe circuit that preconditions the high voltage secondary signal to a low level signal, I've decided to investigate using that circuit rather than my belly mounted flywheel sensor. It will require additional signal conditioning though since the polarity is reversed. I think I can solve that fairly simply.
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1952 CA13092
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dfwallis
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Posted: 24 Sep 2025 at 2:08pm |
09/24/2025 Status (7):
To improve my work environment a little, I finished up the wiring for some more light fixtures and outlets and added a compressor and a sandblast cabinet. The sandblast cabinet will save a huge amount on media. However, the compressor is only 4 cfm. The electrical circuit to the barn is unable to handle much more than about 1000 watts. When its running, the dremel slows to a crawl. It is possible that I ran both legs of the 220 from the pump house into the barn (25 years ago), though. I see another coiled section of wire that's unused. So I may be able to give the compressor it's own circuit (to be investigated next trip). That would also allow me to connect the sandblast cabinet exhaust fan at the same time (although it draws a little more current than I expected). As-is, the cabinet is a little difficult to use without dust collection. If I can't do that, I may get a cordless vacuum if I can find one with enough throughput. I generally only sandblast hard to reach areas and severe rust pits and weld joints because I don't have enough cfm. I could also connect the big compressor as I've been doing. It's 400 feet away in the garage but is a pain to set up. There's no electrical service in the garage and I have to connect a long extension to the dryer circuit in the house, then a 400 foot hose to the barn... 
This pic is before I finished the wiring. The additional fixtures were plugged into extension cords which have now been eliminated. The 4 central fixtures are on a switched circuit and each individually pull cord operated to make it easy to turn off unneeded lights. Fixtures over the workbench and the drill press are plugged into outlets.
Edited by dfwallis - 26 Sep 2025 at 3:56pm
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1952 CA13092
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dfwallis
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Posted: 24 Sep 2025 at 1:51pm |
09/24/2025 Status (6):
I switched to working on the 2-14 "pickup" plow (325). I used my new 3pt forks to pick it up from its grave.
I began dismantling. Most bolts came lose with the impact driver (and lots of soaking in PB Blaster), but some of the plow bottom bolts had to be cut off. There was nothing left of the nuts or the square portion of the heads. Some of the plow bolts were a little difficult to get tools to. But I didn't damage or break anything at least. I'll probably reassemble with strategically placed stainless bolts. I don't plan to take the frame itself apart. There's no real need. I'll just sand blast the bolts and give it a good cleaning.
Example of the crud removed. This is actually a coating of dirt that has embedded rust particles that make it hard as a rock. I used an angle grinder, angle sander, dremel, wire brush, and sand blaster to get this cleaned up. Didn't look too bad in the end.
I also had to straighten one of those turnbuckle bolts (welder heated it). I don't know how you can bend a turnbuckle bolt while doing absolutely no damage to the turnbuckle its screwed into. Also straightened the crank handle and made a new pin. The old pin was worn plus the hole was wallowed out. I used a roll pin instead of a solid pin.
Edited by dfwallis - 25 Sep 2025 at 11:05am
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1952 CA13092
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dfwallis
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Posted: 24 Sep 2025 at 1:26pm |
09/24/2025 Status (5):
As a continuation of my carburetor performance trials and tribulations, I was able to acquire a rebuilt TSX670. I had read here that it was compatible, but it isn't without significant modification. Additionally, it has a 3/4 inch venturi versus the 5/8 inch venturi of the TSX486. After modification, the tractor idles without misfiring about as well as with the Zenith 12566, but it still misfires at higher RPMs. The 12566 at certain mod stages did not misfire at all at higher RPMs but the tractor would die if there was any sudden RPM or load change. You had to gradually increase RPMs to keep it running. The tractor is fully functional again and I've received the TSX486 in TX (after getting lost in USPS for 2 weeks). I'll continue working on it to see if I can identify any issues. I'll not repeat the rest of the other thread here.
I reused the old parts that came from the TSX486 before I installed the rebuild kit. This throttle rod/lever was a mangled welded mess with the control rod section not fully clamped to the upper arm so it had about 1/4 inch of slop in its rotation. Anyway, I dremeled it apart and reshaped it with the grinder to make usable parts. That part at the top left is part of the glob of weld material. The 670 would not mount because the throttle rod was too long and hit the block. The throttle plate of the 670 is also larger than the 486 so I had to widen the mounting position on the brass rod and then had to very slightly trim the edge of the plate so that it would close sufficiently to achieve idle RPM.
In order to make the upper arm position adjustable, I created a lock bolt/nut configuration similar to that used on the Zenith.
After completion the arm was still too close to the block, so I had to kink the arm about 1/4 inch out.
Edited by dfwallis - 25 Sep 2025 at 11:01am
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1952 CA13092
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dfwallis
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Posted: 24 Sep 2025 at 1:07pm |
09/24/2025 Status (4):
The plow main lift rod was severely pitted (but still fully functional). For cosmetic reasons, I had it weld filled. It turned out ok. I may patch those weld pit artifacts to reduce corrosion potential at some point.
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1952 CA13092
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dfwallis
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Posted: 24 Sep 2025 at 1:00pm |
09/24/2025 Status (3):
I finished up the hydraulic tank mounting brackets (redesigned to have a lip/hook at the top to prevent slipping off). I also added rubber mounting pads to tighten against and restrict movement when mounted.
The tank was custom designed to fit in this space by a Chicago company. It is a 5 gallon tank.
Edited by dfwallis - 24 Sep 2025 at 2:27pm
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1952 CA13092
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dfwallis
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Posted: 24 Sep 2025 at 12:55pm |
09/24/2025 Status (2):
In August I cleaned and painted various cultivator parts that mount directly to the tractor. In early September I assembled the lift arm section that mounts to the torque tube and the front toolbar. I also retrieved the broken toolbar mount bracket from its grave and had it welded.
Edited by dfwallis - 24 Sep 2025 at 2:43pm
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1952 CA13092
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dfwallis
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Posted: 24 Sep 2025 at 12:43pm |
09/24/2025 Status (1):
I'll create separate posts because it's easier to add incrementally.
My plan is to make my add-on hydraulic pump support mounting either at the rear belt or on the cultivator bracket on the front. However, the pulley and drive adaptor recommended by Steiner for a CA don't work for me. The recommended item has a 1 inch spline and the maximum spline that will go through the crank hole is 13/16" (wanting it to be removable without difficulty). So I bought the adapter for the 3/4 spline recommended for a Ford and adapted it to fit to the CA recommended pulley. I would have rather drilled the spline adapter, but it was so hard, even the hardest drill bits (and punches) would not even put a dent in it. I could barely scratch it with an awl. I drilled the pulley mounting holes out to 5/8 and the bolts fit neatly against the sides. I created some special off-sided washers to ensure a nice even surface to tighten against. I used the 13+ inch spline rod so that it protrudes beyond the cultivator bracket. I used an insert to ensure that the spline adapter was properly centered on the pulley. Since it fits with little movement possible, it was already well centered. It will be attached with a rubber drive coupler. I wanted to use a U-drive but they were too bulky.
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1952 CA13092
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dfwallis
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Posted: 06 Aug 2025 at 12:04pm |
jvin248 wrote:
dfwallis wrote:
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That photo looks like a tractor fresh off the factory assembly line.
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Believe me, there are plenty of dings, new and old :) And the paint job is substandard. I had great difficulty getting the water out of the compressor feed 400 feet away in the garage... and I'm not really sure how VS can call this paint "super premium".
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1952 CA13092
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jvin248
Silver Level
Joined: 17 Jan 2022
Location: Detroit
Points: 499
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Posted: 05 Aug 2025 at 8:42pm |
dfwallis wrote:
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That photo looks like a tractor fresh off the factory assembly line. .
Edited by jvin248 - 05 Aug 2025 at 8:45pm
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