| Author |
|
littlemarv 
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1826
|
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote  Reply
 Posted: 15 Mar 2019 at 8:05pm |
Sloooooooooowly. I have been working a ton of overtime. Bad weather is good for my wallet. Assembled the rings/pistons/rods/rod bearings. Can't get much more lubricated than this- Let the excess drip off- And slide them home. Lubriplate on the bearings, torque the caps into place, checked for side clearance, and torqued the little jamnuts back on. Gave the headgasket a snort of copper coat and laid it down. Had the head resurfaced and gone through. New freeze plugs, new valves and guides as needed, they even surfaced the manifold side. They also blasted it and hot tanked it, so it looks like the engine gets a coat of paint before it goes back in. Marked out the torque sequence And then He-man had to show me what he could do. Not sure where he got those coveralls from. He says he can do 100 foot pounds, but he looked like he was struggling at 60. So, I guess I have to take it off the stand and put the rear seal carrier on, then I can put the oil pan on once the front cover is installed.
Edited by littlemarv - 15 Mar 2019 at 8:07pm
|
|
The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
|
 |
|
Sponsored Links
|
|
|
DennisA (IL)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Ridott IL.
Points: 2064
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 15 Mar 2019 at 8:41pm |
|
Looking great! Keep up the good work.
|
|
Thanks & God Bless
Dennis
|
|
Ted J
Orange Level
Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
Points: 18704
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 15 Mar 2019 at 11:17pm |
Looks like the "He-Man" is gonna chit his bibs. 
 chaskaduo wrote:
That I would also like to see dick, and littlemarvs tutorial has been
great. His son will benefit in many ways from his fathers
teachings. |
And I think HE is the photographer also Elliott. It'd be nice to be around 40 years from now and listen to him,,,,,,,,,,,"I remember one time when my Dad was rebuilding this tractor....." Did you do anything about this littlemarv?? I didn't notice..
Alvin M wrote:
lower governor pin is in the wrong way that is way the clip in cutting into the weight |
|
|
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
|
|
chaskaduo
Orange Level
Joined: 26 Nov 2016
Location: Twin Cities
Points: 5203
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 15 Mar 2019 at 11:27pm |
|
Ted I can hardly hear now I can't imagine 40 years from now if I were alive then.
|
|
1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
|
|
Alex09(WI)
Orange Level
Joined: 15 Mar 2012
Location: CECIL WI
Points: 1698
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 16 Mar 2019 at 12:59am |
|
Dang, looks like its coming along nice littlemarv! Keep 'er going!
|
|
www.awtractor.com
A&W TRACTOR 920-598-1287
KEEPING ALLIS-CHALMERS IN THE FIELDS THROUGH THE 21ST CENTURY
|
|
littlemarv
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1826
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 27 Mar 2019 at 10:40pm |
Put the rocker studs in, a little lubriplate on the pushrods, Changed the corks in the rocker shaft, And torqued the rockers on. Then I took the engine off the stand and set it on the ground to install the rear main. Its a cork seal in this kit and man, did it go in hard. Didn't get any pictures of that struggle. Anyone got any tips on how to install that? I got it most of the way started, then used the flat side of a pocket screwdriver to tuck it into place. Got it back on the stand, put in the distributor drive and the cam spring and plunger. Installed the gasket and finally got to use my seal locator- worked pretty slick. Packed the seal with lubriplate to hold the garter spring in, Turns out the locator makes a perfect driver as well, just used a block of wood to keep from marring up the aluminum. Put the governor housing on. Also installed the pulley so I can turn the crank, but I think that may have to come off when the engine goes back in. I seem to remember removing the pulley to get the bolster unbolted or something. Flipped the motor over, put the suction pipe and screen back in. Went to put the oil pan on and here is where I ran into a little snag. The front cover has about a 1/16" gap along the bottom where the oil pan/front cover/block meet. I can tighten it down and assemble it but when I take the nuts off to bolt the pedestal up, it may develop a leak. So snugged up the front cover so I could trim the gasket, and put the pan on with 4 bolts and no gasket for now. I will put the pan on once the engine is in the tractor. Flipped it back over, set the valves to 0.014" cold, and gave everything up top a little shot of oil. Went to put the valve cover on, and of course the cork gasket is bowed in on either side. Taped the gasket into place, we will let it set overnight and see if it relaxes, otherwise may have to glue it to the cover. What's this? Can I really be gaining? That looks like empty bench space! Good thing, the snow is going away fast and those damn leaves are coming back with a vengeance. I think they may have multiplied over the winter.
|
|
The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
|
|
Dick L
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edon Ohio
Points: 5082
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 28 Mar 2019 at 5:08am |
|
One thing I do when putting the fronts back on is to take a die grinder and clear out the bolster area that makes it almost impossible to put the belt on the crankshaft pulley. I should have said did once up on a time I did, not do. Or I would if I was to do it now.
Fantastic pictorial for everyone's future reference.
Edited by Dick L - 28 Mar 2019 at 5:15am
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8167
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 28 Mar 2019 at 11:44am |
Great pictures of your progress! Thanks for the updates! Your son is having a good time learning too!
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
Ted J
Orange Level
Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
Points: 18704
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 28 Mar 2019 at 9:30pm |
Dick L wrote:
One thing I do when putting the fronts back on is to take a die grinder and clear out the bolster area that makes it almost impossible to put the belt on the crankshaft pulley. I should have said did once up on a time I did, not do. Or I would if I was to do it now. |
Got a pic of that Dick? I don't quite follow what you are saying...
|
|
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
|
|
Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 29 Mar 2019 at 3:34pm |
littlemarv wrote:
The straight marks are cam to crank, and the O is for magneto timing. I guess a distributor gets timed further back. |
Another great thread! Thanks for sharing all the great info, I always learn a lot following your basement rebuilds! I really like your "engine replacement fixture" to hold the tractor together during rebuilding. I'll have to remember that for future reference!
Ok, I don't want to derail your thread, but I think you may have solved a mystery for me. You talk about the timing marks being different for a magneto Vs a distributor, if I am reading this correct?? Can you please elaborate on this a bit? I have a C that was running great on its distributor, but I wanted to switch it to a mag so I wouldn't have to keep a battery in it, as it is seldom used. So I installed the mag, but was having no luck getting it to start. (I ran into a couple other issues that sidelined getting it running again, but I think I have those resolved now) Far as I know it is all timed up right with the flywheel marks etc... but I am wondering if I need to change gear timing on something?? I always thought that was all the same for either a mag or distributor, but if not I think you just found my problem?!
Keep up the great work, and thanks for sharing! I was the second subscriber to your YouTube channel, keep the videos coming too
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
|
CTuckerNWIL
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22810
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 29 Mar 2019 at 4:37pm |
Jacob (WI,ND) wrote:
Ok, I don't want to derail your thread, but I think you may have solved a mystery for me. You talk about the timing marks being different for a magneto Vs a distributor, if I am reading this correct?? Can you please elaborate on this a bit? I have a C that was running great on its distributor, but I wanted to switch it to a mag so I wouldn't have to keep a battery in it, as it is seldom used. So I installed the mag, but was having no luck getting it to start. (I ran into a couple other issues that sidelined getting it running again, but I think I have those resolved now) Far as I know it is all timed up right with the flywheel marks etc... but I am wondering if I need to change gear timing on something?? I always thought that was all the same for either a mag or distributor, but if not I think you just found my problem?!
Keep up the great work, and thanks for sharing! I was the second subscriber to your YouTube channel, keep the videos coming too |
As long as the cam is timed right to the crank (that doesn't change from mag to distributor), the only thing you need to do for a magneto, is get the drive key HORIZONTAL when #1 is at TDC> You might have to pull the governor out to set this correctly.
|
|
|
|
Jacob (WI,ND)
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Kenmare, ND
Points: 1244
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 29 Mar 2019 at 8:36pm |
CTuckerNWIL wrote:
[QUOTE=Jacob (WI,ND)]
As long as the cam is timed right to the crank (that doesn't change from mag to distributor), the only thing you need to do for a magneto, is get the drive key HORIZONTAL when #1 is at TDC> You might have to pull the governor out to set this correctly.
|
I suspect that is where my problem is then. Any advice on doing this, or is it all self explanatory? I'd read through my manuals, but I accidentally left them all back home the last time I visited.
I suppose if I sit here quietly and patiently wait Littlemarv will eventually cover this on his rebuild?   It's so exciting waiting for the next installment
|
|
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
|
|
littlemarv
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1826
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 30 Mar 2019 at 5:15pm |
Yeah, I kind of sat down and looked at the engine for a minute, and realized I should probably give it a coat of paint before I get too much farther, but there are lots of odds and ends to do yet. I'm pretty much done with all the parts that need the block flipped over for, and when its on the stand I can't install the oil pump or the flywheel. May as well get it back up on the tractor table. After my epic fail at making All Crop cylinder bars last fall, I seem to have a good supply of 1 1/4" angle iron laying about. So, I think we know what all my jigs and brackets are going to be made out of for awhile.... Grabbed some steel casters to put on it, this will make it handy to spin it around on the bench, and for moving around out in the garage once it goes back outside. Pretty handy little setup. If I do anymore engines down here, I need to get an overhead crane mounted to the ceiling. I have a 1 ton chain hoist, just need a set of tracks to mount it on so I can lift, then push it over the table and set it down.
|
|
The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
|
|
Dave(inMA)
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Grafton, MA
Points: 2395
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 30 Mar 2019 at 7:00pm |
|
Very nice setup! Enjoying your story, too.
|
|
WC, CA, D14, WD45
|
|
Dick L
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edon Ohio
Points: 5082
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 31 Mar 2019 at 9:19am |
I just use longer bolts with pipe nipples over the bolts to be able to put the flywheel on. 
|
|
chaskaduo
Orange Level
Joined: 26 Nov 2016
Location: Twin Cities
Points: 5203
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 31 Mar 2019 at 11:12am |
Dick L wrote:
I just use longer bolts with pipe nipples over the bolts to be able to put the flywheel on. |
Clever man that Dick L. 
|
|
1938 B, 79 Dynamark 11/36 6spd, 95 Weed-Eater 16hp, 2010 Bolens 14hp
|
|
littlemarv
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1826
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 02 Apr 2019 at 8:23pm |
Anyways, I might as well look at some of the odds and ends. During the summer, sometimes, when I started the tractor, it would run funny. Not a dead miss, just sounded off. After a couple times of it running funny and shutting off after the exact same amount of time, I think its because the float or needle is sticking. Gentle rap on the carb with a screwdriver handle and it would start and run fine. So I took the carb apart, nice and clean inside. It has the rubber tipped needle in it. Were both brass and rubber tipped needles used? Is one better than the other? It looks like there is a ring around the rubber tip where it fits in to the seat, maybe I should just get a new one and try it. Couldn't get my phone to focus very good. I've been humming and hawing over the foot clutch all winter. I noticed the two heavier springs are loose in the clutch disk. I think I will just send it Ricks way and be done with it. Thanks for looking.
Edited by littlemarv - 02 Apr 2019 at 8:24pm
|
|
The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
|
|
Ted J
Orange Level
Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
Points: 18704
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 3:42pm |
I was just re-reading your whole post and saw a few questions that I didn't ask...you know, that deadly disease we all get..CRS....well, I was gonna ask before and forgot AGAIN, so now I'm gonna!!
littlemarv wrote:
Reassembled the rods and put the main caps in the block. Ready for the
machine shop. Even printed out my own purchase order with critical info
and what I want done, to eliminate foul ups. |
Make a copy of that and send to guys to give them an idea of what you wanted... I know I want one.
littlemarv wrote:
I asked a machinist pal to make me a pilot for
centering the front cover during installation. I told him to use a scrap
of whatever he had laying around. So, of course, a few weeks later he hands me a polished piece of aluminum. Sheesh! So, if anybody wants the specs, it is 1.503" inside diameter, 1.995" outside diameter, by 3" long. |
Thanks for the specs, but if I need to use it, I know where you live....
|
|
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
|
|
littlemarv
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1826
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 05 Apr 2019 at 10:46pm |
When I took the block in, I had them line bore the mains to eliminate shims, machine the deck for flatness, and re-cut the counterbores to the correct depth to get the liner protrusion right. They also sized the big end of the connecting rods, again to eliminate the shims. Knocked the ring gear off, and machined the flywheel. Heated the ring gear up and dropped it back on, a quarter turn off from where it was originally. A four cylinder inline engine only stops in two spots on the flywheel, so this will give the starter fresh teeth to engage. Took apart the thermostat housing, are all these pieces supposed to be in there? The manual shows a gasket above the thermostat (depending on brand of thermostat?) Thanks for looking.
|
|
The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
|
|
Dave(inMA)
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Grafton, MA
Points: 2395
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06 Apr 2019 at 6:52am |
|
Sweet! The engine in my CA may be getting an overhaul - she smokes a bit now and then - this thread will be VERY useful.
|
|
WC, CA, D14, WD45
|
|
Ted J
Orange Level
Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
Points: 18704
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06 Apr 2019 at 1:51pm |
|
I've never seen anything like those two pieces, just the thermostat. But then, all I've ever had apart have been autos engines. I have yet to undertake what you are doing. I hope one the 'knowledgeable' guys will step in.
|
|
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
|
|
CTuckerNWIL
Orange Level
Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: NW Illinois
Points: 22810
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06 Apr 2019 at 5:14pm |
|
I think those extra pieces are a "kit" so you can use a stat that wasn't made specifically for the CA. Gap filling spacers more or less.
|
|
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8167
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 06 Apr 2019 at 7:19pm |
Ryan, I would agree on the stat kit. I got one of those kits from Sandy Lake. Took me a little while to figure out how they went together to mimic the original fitment. Regards, Chris |
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
littlemarv
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1826
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 13 Apr 2019 at 12:29pm |
Primed and installed the oil pump. Rick has a reman clutch on the way, so we knocked the pilot bushing out, we can tap the new one in later. Muscles torqued the flywheel on while I held the crank. Marked both sets of "center" and "fire" marks, so we can see them in the hole later. So there, I think it needs to go out in the garage for a coat of paint before I put any more parts on. But, we got 8" of wet heavy snow this week to plunge us right back into winter again. So, that will have to wait. Time to clean up a little. Can't even hardly walk down here. I set my chain hoist up to lower the motor down. The forum safety guy should have a ball with this one- a chain hoist strung from the rafters on an old rusty piece of angle iron propped into position with 2 wood blocks. I even had to remove the light bulb to make room. If I'm going to work on more engines down here, need to come up with a trolley system or something. I'm pushing my luck with this setup. At any rate, cleaned up quite a bit. My machinist pal is actually a Steiner dealer, he makes parts for them. So, I had him order me up a water pump, gauges, and a few other odds and ends. We can work on some smaller stuff in the meantime, till the weather straightens out. And the motor tucks away nicely in the corner. Those wheels were a good idea. Thanks for looking.
Edited by littlemarv - 13 Apr 2019 at 12:32pm
|
|
The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8167
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 13 Apr 2019 at 3:56pm |
Ryan, Awesome pictures of your son helping on the engine and flywheel! My shop has similar issues, as I attempt to assemble the WD45 engine. I am guilty of never stopping to really clean it up and organize my junk! I am always amazed at what finally comes out of my shop!:) Your doing good. Spring is around the corner and you have the engine complete! Regards, Chris
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
Ted J
Orange Level
Joined: 05 Jul 2010
Location: La Crosse, WI
Points: 18704
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 13 Apr 2019 at 8:37pm |
And not that many extra parts..... Looks like you're on the home stretch. I agree, the next big project should be building a crane of some type in the basement shop. Unless Ma allows you to build a shop in the back yard.......heated and all.....  naw, forget that, your back yard isn't big enough.... Yeah, that last snow storm set us back a while now. It still hasn't melted down here. It should be gone by the middle of the week though. Hopefully it will, I've gotta make a trip up by Alex and stop by Jim maybe. We'll see. Keep your stick on the ice and keep pluggin away.
|
|
"Allis-Express"
19?? WC / 1941 C / 1952 CA / 1956 WD45 / 1957 WD45 / 1958 D-17
|
|
JaredC(WI)
Silver Level
Joined: 10 Apr 2019
Location: Birnamwood WI
Points: 106
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 14 Apr 2019 at 8:17pm |
|
Littlemarv, this whole thread is facinating. I've go zero knowledge and experience in what you are doing here. A great read and being able to see things as you do them.....thanks for sharing!
Jared
|
|
littlemarv
Orange Level
Joined: 10 Jun 2013
Location: Wisconsin
Points: 1826
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 23 Apr 2019 at 8:53pm |
Installed the pilot bushing and bolted the clutch on. Strapped it to the two wheeled cart and grabbed the poor unsuspecting neighbor while he was walking back from the mailbox. Got it out into the garage and degreased it. I decided to try the Van Sickle red primer. I used grey on the wheel centers and wasn't happy with the way it looked. Actually, I'm not happy with the way spray paint turns out at all, but when you factor in cost and convenience, it's hard to put up the paint booth and get out the HVLP gun, for smaller projects. I wasn't going to paint the engine, but when I took the head in, they shot blasted it bare, so that's that. I guess runny thin spray paint is better than bare metal, or worse yet, rust. One advantage to painting a block that's already been painted- "That big run in the paint? Oh, that. That was already there!" Looks like the water pump bush I planted last fall is blossoming! Actually, that's one of the better ways to paint stuff outside, just shove some ready rod in the ground for some instant paint stands. Cleaned and painted the valve cover and thermostat housing pieces too. Everything else looks good enough for reuse. Thanks for looking.
|
|
The mechanic always wins.
B91131, WC23065, WD89101, CA29479, B1, Early B10, HB212, 416H
|
|
Sugarmaker
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Jul 2013
Location: Albion PA
Points: 8167
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 24 Apr 2019 at 7:51am |
Ryan, I think the painted engine looks great! The hard work and dollars are on the inside. This will make the rest of the CA look bad and you may have to do the whole thing too!:) I like the idea of the stakes in the ground. I have never tried that. I always hang stuff. That is a idea I may use this spring too. Thanks for the great pictures! Regards, Chris
|
|
D17 1958 (NFE), WD45 1954 (NFE), WD 1952 (NFE), WD 1950 (WFE), Allis F-40 forklift, Allis CA, Allis D14, Ford Jubilee, Many IH Cub Cadets, 32 Ford Dump, 65 Comet.
|
|
Dave(inMA)
Orange Level
Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Grafton, MA
Points: 2395
|
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: 24 Apr 2019 at 8:27am |
|
x2 what Chris said! Thanks for the education.
|
|
WC, CA, D14, WD45
|
|
Topic Options
