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C allis chalmers block cracked between cylinders

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Ricky G View Drop Down
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    Posted: 17 Nov 2011 at 7:33pm
Has any one had any luck rebuilding one
and sealing Head gasket going to put new or good used sleeves and
pistons good fence row find sheet metal is good
engine stuck when i got it just hate to see it junked out tractor
just needs to run not going to work it to hard may be put a three point hitch
on it to plow some snow paint up drive drive on tractor cruse
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MNLonnie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MNLonnie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov 2011 at 7:40pm
Cracks between cylinders on the top are common and no big deal. If the cracks are in the bottom, that's a different story.
Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker
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Ricky G View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ricky G Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov 2011 at 7:43pm
cracks are on the top of cylinder
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MNLonnie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MNLonnie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov 2011 at 7:44pm
The head gasket generally takes care of that problem.
Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LazyDFarms Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov 2011 at 7:45pm
I have exactly the same problem.  I found a CA and was going to overhaul it as it was seezed up. I took out the sleeves and pistons and saw it was cracked between the cylinders.  I was thinking about mabe jb welding the cracks shut and tying that.  I saw a WD one time that was cracked like this and someone put a bolt all the way through the block between the cylinders to hold it togeter.  The problem on this block is the frost plug is there.  Let me know if you find out if something works and I'll do the same.  Thanks, Dennis
I'VE DONE MORE WITH LESS!!
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Thad in AR. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Thad in AR. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov 2011 at 7:53pm
The Sleeves stick up above the deck just a little and I've never had one leak. I've never laid eyes on a B/C block that wasn't cracked between the sleeves.
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CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov 2011 at 8:08pm
Lazy D, what works is to use it the way it is. Thad,I have a CE block that isn't cracked but I think it is in a minority since so many are cracked and continue to work just fine.


Edited by CTuckerNWIL - 17 Nov 2011 at 8:13pm
http://www.ae-ta.com
Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Ricky G View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ricky G Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov 2011 at 8:19pm
the serial # on this tractor is 3937j any one know what the j stands for
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MNLonnie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MNLonnie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov 2011 at 8:22pm
It shouldn't have a J in it. Is this # from next to the shifter where it says Tractor No.
Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker
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Ricky G View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ricky G Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov 2011 at 8:39pm
sorry just looked again the # is 03937 could that be a c instead of a j hard to make out
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Ricky G View Drop Down
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MNLonnie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MNLonnie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov 2011 at 8:43pm
The C should be first, C3937 would be a 1941. If the J turns out to be another # then it would put you in about 1947.
Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker
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Ricky G View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ricky G Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov 2011 at 8:47pm
whats the best way to tell a b from a c was told mine is a c
has a narrow front end
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MNLonnie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MNLonnie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov 2011 at 8:51pm
They never made a B narrow front. The C's are about a foot wider than a B in the rear and the steering arm on a C goes up from the steering box and a B goes down.
Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker
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Ricky G View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ricky G Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov 2011 at 9:20pm
ok i have the real serial # is C50296 was looking at rear of shifter instead of front
should be 1947
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MNLonnie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MNLonnie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Nov 2011 at 9:25pm
That sounds better.
Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 4 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker
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