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!@@!# Brush Hog

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TomYaz View Drop Down
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    Posted: 11 Jul 2012 at 6:38pm
So my new woods brush hog broke the shear pin...it also has a slip clutch...why both??
 
Anyway...the pto shaft spun off the geaqrbox shaft and I have some scoring on the pto shaft...and I cant get the shaft  completely on so as to drop a new pin...I think the scoring is the problem...am I right on this?  to fix, perhaps take a small grind stone on a drill bit and try to smooth it out, or do I got to get it bored out??
 
Always something.....
If its not an All-Crop, it all crap!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2012 at 8:37pm
I would just clean up the yoke and shaft for a slip fit, check the pamphlet that came with the mower, you need to slip the clutch at the beginning of the season and routinely if it sits for long periods of non-use so as to clean rust adhesion off then reset the clutch pack preload or at least I do with my 3008 BH.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wfmurray Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2012 at 9:44pm
The way i check my slip is rev engine  up to about the speed you will be operatint at, drop clutch that puts pto in gear . You should hear a sligh slippage.  That way you know when you hit or the going get real tough it will slip.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DiyDave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2012 at 4:20am
Originally posted by TomYaz TomYaz wrote:

So my new woods brush hog broke the shear pin...it also has a slip clutch...why both??
 
Anyway...the pto shaft spun off the geaqrbox shaft and I have some scoring on the pto shaft...and I cant get the shaft  completely on so as to drop a new pin...I think the scoring is the problem...am I right on this?  to fix, perhaps take a small grind stone on a drill bit and try to smooth it out, or do I got to get it bored out??
 
Always something.....

Half moon file would work, too.  Agree with the other poster said about clutch slipping.  Easy way is to paint a mark, across all components, and adjust till you can see that the marks have moved slightly.  Also, on the shear pin, mark where the edges of the shaft will be, stick the bolt, in a lathe, and make a scoring cut, at each edge of the marks, so that the bolt snaps off, clean, and does not repeat the scratching the shaft, or the yoke you experienced.  I always liked the rattle clutch, that AC used on it's BH's, and Combines!
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TomYaz View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TomYaz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2012 at 6:13am
 
 
Thanks guys....
 
At this rate it will take me all summer to brushog 20 acres...
 
 
If its not an All-Crop, it all crap!
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Orange Blood View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orange Blood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2012 at 6:47am
You could hire Eldon to do it!!!  But watch that guy, he will leave marks on your concrete :-)
Still in use:
HD7 WC C CA WD 2-WD45 WD45LP WD45D D14 3-D17 D17LP 2-D19D D19LP 190XTD 190XTLP 720 D21 220 7020 7030 7040 7045 3-7060
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote michaelwis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2012 at 7:21am
TOM , the old Woods were that way . I got a new extra heavy duty ..two years ago ..Cuts  three inch trees like they were paper .
WD WD45 DIESEL D 14 D-15 SERIES 2 190XT TERRA TIGER ac allcrop 60   GLEANER F 6060 7040.and attachments for all Proud to be an active farmer
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AC WD45 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2012 at 8:52am
My old TSC uses just a shear pin. grade 2. I just keep 3 or 4 extra in the tool box on the tractor.

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1957 Allis Chalmers WD45
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1951 Allis Chalmers WD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rawleigh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2012 at 11:01am
Tom:  Those little flap sanding disc you can buy at the hardware store are great for polishing out bores like that.  Also the emery cloth strips that come as rolls in the plumbing department work great for shoe shining the outside of the shaft.  My JD cutter manual says to use a piece of chalk to mark the clutch.  Loosen it and slip it good at the beginning of the season and then set it so that the marks move some after mowing a strip of heavy growth.

The shear pin may be to avoid trashing the gear box if the clutch is stuck.  Use a chainsaw file to dress up the edges of the shear pin hole.  That is where most of the burrs occur.

As said Grade 2 on the shear pin.  Don't be tempted to go Grade 5 and especially not 8!


Edited by Rawleigh - 12 Jul 2012 at 11:04am
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Lee Bradley View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lee Bradley Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jul 2012 at 12:37pm
Back to your first question. The shear pin is to protect the drivetrain and the clutch, should be an over-run clutch is to prevent the brush hog from powering the tractor drivetrain via the pto when you step on the master clutch. More than one tractor has gone through a fence, gate etc without that over-run clutch.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dakota Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2012 at 10:49am
At the beginig of every season of use loosen the slip clutch and run the ptoo it spins without moving the blades this loosens the rust on the plates. then tignten back up to factory specs. if the shaft is slightly scored just clean it up with a file and put back together. If your tractor has live power you don't need a over run clutch. I don't like them they mover the Ujoint back 6" from where it should be. If you don't have live power then you need on to prevent the mower back powering the drive train.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TomYaz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2012 at 10:58am
Originally posted by Dakota Dave Dakota Dave wrote:

At the beginig of every season of use loosen the slip clutch and run the ptoo it spins without moving the blades this loosens the rust on the plates. then tignten back up to factory specs. if the shaft is slightly scored just clean it up with a file and put back together. If your tractor has live power you don't need a over run clutch. I don't like them they mover the Ujoint back 6" from where it should be. If you don't have live power then you need on to prevent the mower back powering the drive train.
 
I have a WD45...never experienced the brush hog driving the tractor forward via the PTO. When I engage the main clutch, The tractor PTO disengages from the drivetrain.  If I throw out the handclutch, the tractor PTO runs but it does not engage the drivetrain.
 
Is there a difference between a slip clutch and overruning clutch? Or are they the same?
I thought the clutch on the brush hog PTO shaft Prevents damage to the drivetrain like the shear pin. But perhaps I got it all wrong; please advise.  It is of three plates held together by springs on pins around the perimeters.
 
The scoring is pretty bad but it appears to be of grooves and not burrs. I can see how a burr can stop the mating of the shaft parts, but grooves?
If its not an All-Crop, it all crap!
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DMiller View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DMiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2012 at 12:48pm
He was considering tractors without live PTO, ours are live and do not need over-run slip clutch.
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SteveM C/IL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveM C/IL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 2012 at 5:13pm
Tom,the slip clutch is that thing you said with the discs and springs.An over running clutch is a seperate unit that attatches to the tractor pto which you then attatch the mower shaft to.It is a sprag clutch of sorts.Drives one direction and spins in the other.They do screw up the u-joint geometry on a pull behind unit. On my Woods you can hear a groaning sound when the clutch slips. I've never fiddled with mine but it's shedded.
 
  If you didn't have the hand clutch to stop foward motion you would soon know the need for an over running clutch.


Edited by SteveM C/IL - 13 Jul 2012 at 5:15pm
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