Broken bolt in torque tube-Model B

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   I have a model B and the bolt that attaches the crossbar to the torque tube on the right hand side is broken off and stuck.  To make matters worse, I broke off a cheap EZ-out in the bolt and it is hard enough that I cant drill it out.  I considered splitting the tractor between the torque tube and transmission and trying to get at it from the other side.  I also considered taking the dremel tool to it and trying to cut out some of the bolt around the EZ-out.  I also considered drilling the whole thing out and putting in a helicoil, although I don't have any experience with these.  Does anyone have any advice?  One piece of advice that I would like to share is that the $12.00 I saved by buying the cheap ez-outs is looking mighty expensive at this point.

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buckeyeag Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 19 Nov 2010 Location: Ohio Points: 10	Post Options Post Reply Quote buckeyeag Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Broken bolt in torque tube-Model B Posted: 12 Jan 2011 at 9:22pm
	I have a model B and the bolt that attaches the crossbar to the torque tube on the right hand side is broken off and stuck. To make matters worse, I broke off a cheap EZ-out in the bolt and it is hard enough that I cant drill it out. I considered splitting the tractor between the torque tube and transmission and trying to get at it from the other side. I also considered taking the dremel tool to it and trying to cut out some of the bolt around the EZ-out. I also considered drilling the whole thing out and putting in a helicoil, although I don't have any experience with these. Does anyone have any advice? One piece of advice that I would like to share is that the $12.00 I saved by buying the cheap ez-outs is looking mighty expensive at this point.

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Dick L Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5082	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dick L Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 Jan 2011 at 9:34pm
	EZ-out is the wrong term for those things. I have had several of those bolts break off. I have split the transmission away from the torque tube and used heat to loosen the stuck bolt. I have not had to drill out any of those. Every one that I broke had rusted away most of the bolt in the square tube leaving a stub end to get a grip on with a tool. I never tried to turn one out until the torque tube was real real hot over the threads. Those that I have had the problems with also had a real bad rusted square tube that needed replaced.

Coke-in-MN Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Afton MN Points: 41229	Post Options Post Reply Quote Coke-in-MN Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 Jan 2011 at 9:40pm
	Heat the area and then add parifin wax or bees wax to area so it is drawn into the threads, this works to seep into areas and break rust bond and lubricate the threads so bolt will back out. can try heating the easy out to soften it and use carbind drill to remove or small grinding stone to slowly eat it away.
	Faith isn't a jump in the dark. It is a walk in the light. Faith is not guessing; it is knowing something. "Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful."

morton(pa) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Lancaster, PA Points: 1234	Post Options Post Reply Quote morton(pa) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 Jan 2011 at 10:12pm
	This might not work given the angle of this particular bolt, but I was told one time by an old timer to take some freon and put it in the hole. This will make what ever your working with (tap, easy out, bolt, I guess) extremely brittle. Let it sit a little while and hit it with a punch. It should crumble into many pieces and then you can just sweep it out with a shop vac. I've never tried this, but it sounds like it would work.

Matt (Jordan,MN) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Jordan, MN Points: 3762	Post Options Post Reply Quote Matt (Jordan,MN) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 Jan 2011 at 11:54pm
	One trick that i learned is to weld a washer to it and grip it with a good vise grip and try to turn it out. Some times you go through a few washers but it works.

DaveKamp Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Access Joined: 12 Apr 2010 Location: LeClaire, Ia Points: 5644	Post Options Post Reply Quote DaveKamp Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 13 Jan 2011 at 12:52am
	Hmmm... easier to follow if you post a pic, but one of the ways I usually deal with broken-off bolts... if they're broken off in such a way that I can... I'll set a nut up against the bolt, and stick the nozzle of my MIG welder in there, arc against the offending bolt, build up the metal 'till the nut is welded to it. Then I let it cool naturally to the point where it's blue... then chill it with water... and put a socket on the bolt and back it out. Welding not only installs a gripping surface, it also heats the bolt, then surrounding metal. By letting the bolt cool, the weld becomes strong. Chilling the bolt afterwards causes it to contract, which tends to help 'break' it free from the casting (because the casting absorbed quite a bit of welding heat 'till 'ya chilled it!). The unfortunate reality of ANY tap (or easy-out type tool) is that, no matter how cheap or expensive they are, they're ALWAYS harder than the bolt you're trying to remove.

Bee Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 14 Jun 2010 Location: NC Points: 201	Post Options Post Reply Quote Bee Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 13 Jan 2011 at 9:21am
	Bolt in bottom right of pic...
	Bob, North Carolina 1949 B

CTuckerNWIL Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: NW Illinois Points: 22810	Post Options Post Reply Quote CTuckerNWIL Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 13 Jan 2011 at 9:47am
	Is the square tube still there? If you could get behind the tube and saw off the rusted bolt, then remove the tube, you would have room to weld a washer to the bolt. Then weld a nut to the washer, wrench on it as it cools and the bolt may come right out the first time.
	http://www.ae-ta.com Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF

split51 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Guthrie, OK Points: 713	Post Options Post Reply Quote split51 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 13 Jan 2011 at 11:40am
	I second what DaveKamp said on the nut welded to the broken bolt. I had 4 exhaust manifold bolts busted off in the heads of my 20-35 when I bought it and this method removed 3 of the 4 bolts. The forth was busted off too deep to get any weld to it so I had to carefully drill it, moving up in bits until I was right at the edge of the threads, the remaining then spun out like looking like a helicoil.
	1929 20-35 sn17662 B1 w/snow blade B10 w/sickle mower B110 w/mower deck B110 w/tiller B112 w/grader blade B210 w/plo

buckeyeag Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 19 Nov 2010 Location: Ohio Points: 10	Post Options Post Reply Quote buckeyeag Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Jan 2011 at 8:43am
	Welding is not an easy option (tractor is at home in the garage and immobile, grandpa's shop is 5 miles away) I will try some heat though. I thought about using the dremel to cut a slot in the top of the bolt and use one of those impact screwdrivers that you smack with a hammer to try to bust it loose. Does that sound like a long shot? How easy is it to remove the torque tube from the engine? The tractor is already bare from the engine back as I have been prepping it for paint. I wonder if I would be ahead to take the torque tube to the welder? I appreciate your previous replies.

Dick L Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5082	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dick L Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Jan 2011 at 9:15am
	If the gas tank and tool box cover has been in place all the time the bolt should not be rusted fast all that tight. However if it has not been coverd then all bets are off. With the torque tube off you can get better positions to extract the broken bolts however you do it. This one had the square tube rusted to where it broke out of the way with a coupla hammer blows. It lays in the center of the picture. The broken bolts were in the torque tube on the left. The other one was being used as a work bench. Probly would never got them out if it wasn't for my helper Rusty. He is there checking out the broken bolt I had not picked up. It had cooled.

Bob-Maine Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Central Maine Points: 922	Post Options Post Reply Quote Bob-Maine Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 14 Jan 2011 at 3:32pm
	I would skip the impact screwdriver. I just used mine to try to remove the slotted screw holding (along with three cap screws) the tranny shifter plate in the side of a B tranny. The bit broke off after several blows. And it was a Craftsman. But I'm a Sears hater anyway so I'll let it go now. Good luck. Let us know what does work. Somehow, there always seems that a way will be found to do this stuff. Bob@allisdowneast

buckeyeag Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 19 Nov 2010 Location: Ohio Points: 10	Post Options Post Reply Quote buckeyeag Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 18 Jan 2011 at 9:22am
	Follow up: I tried the impact screwdriver but could not get a good enough slot cut in the bolt due to the stuck EZ out. So I spent a long evening with the dremel tool and cut around the ez-out. The EZ out came out after about 2 hours and I believe with a little help from the torch and a left hand drill bit, I can finish the job tonight. I appreciate everyone's advice.