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Harley 
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Joined: 07 Jan 2012
Location: Perry Iowa
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 Topic: Broke off bolt in D15 head
Posted: 24 Jan 2012 at 10:21am |
I broke off a bolt in my D15 head trying to remove the thermostat cover. It was seeping just a little because there was already one bolt missing. Now there is two and I am forced to repair it. What is the best approach. I dont see how an easyout is enough to get out a frozen bolt.
Hate to take the head off a very good engine but I do have a drill press that could really help. Should I take the head off??
Harley
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jaybmiller
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Greensville,Ont
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Posted: 24 Jan 2012 at 10:32am |
best approach..... buy another D-15....hehehe
next approach... drill them out..use NEW, good bits, small,bigger,bigger until it's all gone.Use oil when drilling, maybe a magnet close by to grab shavings ? Slow and steady wins the game.
final approach....take head off, go insidem, use drill press. But you should buy a head gasket first, cross fingers you don't snap off another head bolt !!
I've done #1 and # 2......
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Tracy Martin TN
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Posted: 24 Jan 2012 at 10:37am |
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Try welding a washer and nut on it. It should come out with the heat.Tracy Martin
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Dick L
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Location: Edon Ohio
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Posted: 24 Jan 2012 at 11:15am |
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I would drill it out and retap it on the tractor. What few shavings that would get down the hole will not cause down in the block. You should be able to stuff a rag under the bolts to catch most of them.
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Dave Richards (WV)
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Posted: 24 Jan 2012 at 12:06pm |
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Put wheel bearing grease on a rag or paper towel and stick it in the housing under the bolt hole. I find the grease keeps shavings on the rag during removal.
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Unit3
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Joined: 17 Oct 2009
Location: NC Iowa
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Posted: 24 Jan 2012 at 2:19pm |
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1 A friend of mine that works at an AC store would tell to hit them afew good licks with a punch first. 2 Spray them with the JB80 and leave them over night. 3 Then drill them out with a reverse drill bit. I took a scrap piece of wood about 2" wide 6" long and cut the ends square. I stood the wood on its edge and just score it in the middle on the ends at the bandsaw. You can run you drillbit against the end of the wood while the long edge of the wood lays again your flat surface. Then you know your drill is square and going right into the center of the bolt. I did this on my UC to drill out old headlight bolts. Worked great.
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studetom
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Posted: 24 Jan 2012 at 2:25pm |
Heard a lot of good about this. Have not tried it.
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Harley
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Location: Perry Iowa
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Posted: 24 Jan 2012 at 4:17pm |
Thanks for the tips, I drilled out the first bolt and tapped it. Even though it drilled off center, there was good enough thread to hold a new bolt.
The second bolt was not so easy. The old bolt seems to be harder than my bits. I used new bits and sharpened them too. but they just cant penetrate the hardened bolt.
So what do I do now?
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RickUP
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Posted: 24 Jan 2012 at 6:45pm |
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If there is enough bolt at flush or above, weld a same size washer on it real good. then another larger washer if needed. Then weld the nut to that. Make sure it cools to the touch, put a wrench on it n turn it out. Just more detail,but the same as Tracy Martin's advice. Good luck.
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Dick L
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Location: Edon Ohio
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Posted: 24 Jan 2012 at 7:15pm |
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Sharpen a 5/16 masonry bit. Poor mans carbide. Turn it slow. I have used them in my tool shop in a pinch for many years. You might want to take a 1/8" masonry bit to draw the starting dint on center before the gung ho drilling. That is the secret to getting on center. Keep measuring for center as you draw the starting dint to center. Just take your time.
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split51
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Posted: 24 Jan 2012 at 7:23pm |
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I agree with Rick and Tracy. If the bolt is broken flush, weld a nut to it. The heat will help release the stuck bolt. I had to do that to several exhaust manifold bolts on my 20-35 and it worked on every one of them. The welding will not penetrate the cast.
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1929 20-35 sn17662
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stray
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Posted: 24 Jan 2012 at 8:27pm |
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I would agree with welding a nut to it. I've found that a stick welder does a better job of heating up the bolt and breaking the rust bond. It is a lot easier than it sounds, if you are comfortable welding you will be suprized at how easy it is.
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BobHnwO
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Location: Jenera Ohio
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Posted: 25 Jan 2012 at 7:51am |
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I have used a dremel to grind a center recess before drilling.
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Why do today what you can put off til tomorrow.
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Rfdeere
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Posted: 25 Jan 2012 at 8:41am |
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Is the thermostat housing part of the head on a D15 ?
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JeffMOnt
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Ottawa, Ont
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Posted: 25 Jan 2012 at 9:06am |
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Yes it is. I would just do as the other have said and weld a washer to the bolt if there is enough and then weld a nut to the washer. I did this numerous times when I rebuilt my engine as a bunch of the manifold studs broke off when removing it.
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