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Bringing an old WD back to life |
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matador
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Joined: 10 Nov 2014 Location: Wyoming Points: 1727 |
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Topic: Bringing an old WD back to lifePosted: 05 Nov 2021 at 3:38pm |
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So, because I'm a glutton for punishment, I bought a non-running and not entirely complete WD at auction about a month ago: https://www.allischalmers.com/forum/what-have-i-gotten-myself-into_topic183566.html
So, what I know: It's a 1952 WD with the radiator off some other tractor. The bad: It doesn't have a muffler, the reartires are Uniroyals that look new so the machine has probably not been doing work in a LONG time, the rims are both rusted out, and it for sure won't run since there's no sediment bowl. Looking over it though, there are some good points: The shifter boot cover is intact and soft rubber, there's fluid in the radiator, and the oil looks perfectly brown, like it was just changed. Since this came from an estate auction, there's a pretty good chance that's what happened- this was likely the man's next project, and he passed away before making it too far. I have a hunch he started on it though. So, am I an idiot for wanting to bring it back to life? Probably. But, hey, winter is coming and it'll give me something to do. I'd like to get it running and get the WD-9 loader I bought mounted up to it. My question: Where the heck do you start on restoring a tractor? I don't think I'll do much with the cosmetics, but mechanically, I want it to be ready to work again! Talk to me like I'm 15 and this is the first tractor I've done this too. I haven't done much work on engines before. I assume the first step is to see if the engine is seized or free, right? How should I go about that, and is there something I should be doing first?
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Tractors: Allis WD (x2), Allis 7040, Oliver 1800A Diesel, Case 830 Caseomatic, White 2-105, Massey 1105 | Plus a Gleaner F2, 30' A-C 1300 Cultivator, Flightline bale elevator
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plummerscarin
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Joined: 22 Jun 2015 Location: ia Points: 4056 |
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Posted: 05 Nov 2021 at 5:12pm |
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Idiot, not necessarily. Glutton for punishment, without a doubt. Welcome to the world questionable sanity. If you love it do it. Just like me and WD project
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AC720Man
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Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5317 |
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Posted: 05 Nov 2021 at 6:51pm |
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Congratulations, many of us have drug em home like that, it’s the challenge of bringing one back to life. Start with the heart, big concern if the exhaust wasn’t covered. Obviously being open to the elements is never good especially if it has sit outside like that for a period of time. Put a wrench on the crank bolt and see if the engine can be moved. If it doesn’t, next step is to pull the head and see what it looks like after you remove the head. If you see lots of rust and corrosion then I would drain the fluids and drop the pan. See what the bottom end looks like. If its bad as well and appears to be beyond help then search for a new engine. If you feel it’s not too bad, my choice of getting one unstuck is Kroil. It’s kinda expensive but it’s good stuff. Let it soak for a few days, keep the top of the piston covered in it, that way it make its way down the side of piston onto the rings. It’s called the oil that creeps, and that’s what it does as it eats away the rust as it goes. Don’t get in a hurry on a stuck engine, it takes time if it’s really bad. It’s no use starting on the rest of the tractor until you figure out the engine. If you are financially committed to seeing it through then by all means start the other repairs.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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matador
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Joined: 10 Nov 2014 Location: Wyoming Points: 1727 |
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Posted: 05 Nov 2021 at 7:09pm |
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Seems simple enough to start on. I'm not in front of the tractor (It's at the neighbors shop). To put a wrench on the bolt, do I need to remove the pulley or is there a spot between the pulley and engine to get on it?
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Tractors: Allis WD (x2), Allis 7040, Oliver 1800A Diesel, Case 830 Caseomatic, White 2-105, Massey 1105 | Plus a Gleaner F2, 30' A-C 1300 Cultivator, Flightline bale elevator
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AC720Man
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Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5317 |
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Posted: 05 Nov 2021 at 7:45pm |
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The crank pulley is the bottom pulley on the engine. Should have a belt running the generator and water pump off the crank. You do not need to remove the the bolt or pulley. I use a 1/2” long bar breaker bar with whatever socket fits. The long bar allows me to be outside of the tractor frame to try to move it back and forth. Do not force it too hard. Rocking it back and forth sometimes gets it loose after soaking the rings. Kroil got my brothers 190XT unstuck in one day after it had been sitting for sometime due to a blown head gasket. Bought it with a stuck engine, cleaned up the cylinders, new head gasket, and it runs great. Pretty even compression on all cylinders. That was probably 5 years ago.
Hope it goes well. You may have to order the Kroil, limited dealers, but I order mine through Amazon. I use it in the can ,not a aerosol can. |
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Dusty MI
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Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: Charlotte, Mi Points: 5060 |
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Posted: 05 Nov 2021 at 8:09pm |
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Three things make an engine run. Compression, fuel, spark. This is a gas engine.
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917 H, '48 G, '65 D-10 series III "Allis Express"
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Wispitfiremike
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Joined: 28 Mar 2017 Location: Milwaukee, WI Points: 206 |
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Posted: 05 Nov 2021 at 10:37pm |
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While you will probably question your sanity several times while working on this the first time that engine coughes your heart will race and your determination will grow. Try to keep in mind many of these tractors were built in a much simpler time and can be fixed with limited skills. The people on this forum will help in your quest as most have done it themselves, though a parts manual or repair manual can be very helpful also. Personally I like parts manuals as they show me how things come apart and go back together. Good luck and when in doubt posting pictures here will help others help you.
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matador
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Joined: 10 Nov 2014 Location: Wyoming Points: 1727 |
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Posted: 06 Nov 2021 at 1:07pm |
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So, I went over to the neighbors today and put a pipe wrench on the crank rod out front. Man, I'm an idiot- should have thought about that in the first place. The engine is free. There is a spot where it's hard to move, but when you clear that spot, it's easy until it hits that spot again. So, what's the next step? Do I get the stuff for putting the fuel system back together, or do I hook a chain to it and parade it around the yard without fuel to try to cycle the engine and pump oil through it?
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Tractors: Allis WD (x2), Allis 7040, Oliver 1800A Diesel, Case 830 Caseomatic, White 2-105, Massey 1105 | Plus a Gleaner F2, 30' A-C 1300 Cultivator, Flightline bale elevator
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AC720Man
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Joined: 10 Oct 2016 Location: Shenandoah, Va Points: 5317 |
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Posted: 06 Nov 2021 at 8:50pm |
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Ok, are the spark plugs still in the head? If they are you are turning the engine to its compression stroke.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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matador
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Joined: 10 Nov 2014 Location: Wyoming Points: 1727 |
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Posted: 06 Nov 2021 at 9:15pm |
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Yes- there are plugs and wires just like if you were ready to go to the field
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Tractors: Allis WD (x2), Allis 7040, Oliver 1800A Diesel, Case 830 Caseomatic, White 2-105, Massey 1105 | Plus a Gleaner F2, 30' A-C 1300 Cultivator, Flightline bale elevator
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Wispitfiremike
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Joined: 28 Mar 2017 Location: Milwaukee, WI Points: 206 |
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Posted: 07 Nov 2021 at 6:52am |
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Look at the dipstick to see what you circulating thru the engine, oil is cheap compared to an overhaul, change it, then mark the plug wires and pull the plugs out, clean them, and put a little oil in holes, then I would crank it awhile, maybe even leave it set overnite with plugs in loose, pull them and crank it again. If everything is still turning well at that point check for spark before installing the plugs, if good, put plugs in, hook them up, if not may have to file points. See what is in the cooling system. Maybe even flushing with water while your circulating oil by hand would help. Then fill cooling and get fuel to it to see where you are. Hopefully fire in the hole and you are off and running. If it runs I would change oil again after getting it hot a couple of times to remove any contaminants in system.
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