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Breaking in a rebuilt 7060
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Joined: 01 May 2012
Location: Ohio
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    Posted: 31 Jan 2019 at 3:39pm
Just got done rebuilding the engine in my 7060 and getting ready for it's first start and was wondering what you guys do to break in a newly rebuilt engine? Go my break in oil ect, any certain rpm to run it at while letting it get to operating temp to check for leaks etc?
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Points: 2494 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Michael V (NM) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan 2019 at 5:21pm
My thoughts are, put the oil your gonna run in it, after all is re-torqued , leaks checked,run it up to operating temperature good couple hours then change oil, this ought to get it cleaned up good
do not jus run a light load, but put a decent pull on it for at least the first 100-150hrs.
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Points: 5123 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote injpumpEd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan 2019 at 6:50pm
using break in oil is a good think now days. Regular oil you'll be using is actually too good, and won't let it "wear in". Another thing to do is get it up to temp by putting cardboard over radiator, and once warmed up, drive it around and load it with the brakes a few times. Doing this a few times will help seat everything. Once it's been run an hour or 2 like this, putting it on the dyno would be a great way to put partial load on it. If no dyno, hook it on to something and take it to the field. 
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Joined: 29 Jan 2011
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Points: 372 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skateboarder68 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan 2019 at 9:10pm
I wouldn't let it idle much at all. Put it to work for a couple hours. 75% load roughly. Just my opinion I'm no mechanic.
Orange & Silver still earnin their keep on the farm: R62, Series IV D17 nf, 185, 6080, 6080 fwa, 220, 1968 D21, 7045, DT240.
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Get water up then put it to hard work.      MACK
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What Mack said................ and watch your temp gauge. After my brother had his 7030 overhauled we put it on a 4x18 plow in alfalfa sod and plowed 10 acres and then it pulled a 20 foot disk and a 6 row 5100 planter and a 9 shank chisel and we used John Deere break-in oil, I think for the first 50 hours. For my small operation that took almost a year to put on the 50 hours especially since I still used my 7050 and 190.
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Allis recommends no LUGGING or full sustained loads for first 50hrs.
2-8050 1-7080 6080 D-19 modelE & A 7040   R50       
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Not apples for apples, but years back I bought a new Honda 750. Salesman told me to run it at different RPM's for the first 500 mile. It will help seat the rings. ??????? 
2-8070FWA PS/8050PS/7080/7045PS/200/D15-II/2-WD45/WD/3-WC/UC/C
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I toured the Harvey Factory back in 1980. Can't tell you for sure all the engine dyno details because we were moving right along thru the whole place. I'd imagine no more than 1 hour was allotted for each engine performance test. Probably 5 minutes of warm up (coolant water may have already been warm) and then work up to 100% load for a period of time to insure the engine would make and maintain proper HP and oil pressure and have no leaks or any other issues. When I dyno bare engines at work, I run them for 1 hr from initial fire-up to cool-down idle and then shut down. It usually takes me a couple hrs to get an engine connected and another 2 hrs to disconnect. Some engines take me the whole day if there are any leaks or other problems. A-C's connect/disconnect time would have been quick because of the same basic engine time after time. Don't be afraid to work it hard, but not continuously hard. Limit your idle time.
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Thanks for all the replies and input, well I got it all back together, used reman injectors, got fuel to the fuel pump and to the injectors, cracked all the lines and fuel dribbled out of each injector, went to start it and it after some cranking it fired up but had no power and while trying to make sure I had no leaks and that the throttle and injection pump cables were on correct it died and would not restart, any ideas? Thanks!
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Prime it again and if you get it running, crack the injectors one at a time running and let it bleed out for 10 seconds or more. If you had the whole fuel system apart it can be a bear to get all the air out. I’m assuming it was acting like it was starved for fuel and not air. Also check to make sure the cutoff isn’t partially closed on the pump.

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Been trying to bleed it repeatedly but still just a little bit of fuel coming out of each injectors and nothing out of the return line on top of pump? Any more advise?
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I'm betting the pump is gummed up from sitting. These are 4 plunger pumps, and if 2 are sticking, it will deliver about half the required fuel. Good luck!
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Originally posted by injpumpEd injpumpEd wrote:

I'm betting the pump is gummed up from sitting. These are 4 plunger pumps, and if 2 are sticking, it will deliver about half the required fuel. Good luck!
Gotcha, any way of unsticking them or am I looking at removing the pump and going through it? 
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Usually getting the pump properly serviced is the best option. Gets it cleaned up and everything clean and happy inside again. 
210 "too hot to farm" puller, part of the "insane pumpkin posse". Owner of Guenther Heritage Diesel, specializing in fuel injection systems on heritage era tractors. stock rebuilds to all out pullers!
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Originally posted by injpumpEd injpumpEd wrote:

Usually getting the pump properly serviced is the best option. Gets it cleaned up and everything clean and happy inside again. 
Got it serviced, stuck metering valve, got her to run good now!
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Originally posted by injpumpEd injpumpEd wrote:

Usually getting the pump properly serviced is the best option. Gets it cleaned up and everything clean and happy inside again. 
Got it serviced, stuck metering valve, got her to run good now!
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Got it to run good now and everything, now before I put it hard to work should I do a re torque on the head? Necessary or not?

Edited by AC 426 power - 11 Mar 2019 at 3:13pm
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