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BrianC 
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Joined: 16 Jun 2011
Location: New York
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 Topic: Brake locked up stuck in field
Posted: 08 Sep 2021 at 7:43am |
Problem with my 160.
My left brake is locked. I can't move. I tried rocking back and forth. See picture, it is a disc type, in external housing, maybe similar to the 190.
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DrAllis
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Posted: 08 Sep 2021 at 7:56am |
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Loosen the adjuster as loose as it can be and then try rocking it back and forth. Clean up everything inside with new return springs and antiseize on all the balls and pockets.
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JC-WI
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Posted: 08 Sep 2021 at 9:34am |
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loosen outside cover and see if it releases and drive it back home.
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He who says there is no evil has already deceived himself
The truth is the truth, sugar coated or not. Trawler II says, "Remember that."
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DanWi
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Posted: 08 Sep 2021 at 11:15am |
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On my 190 when the springs broke we had to take the cover off and pull out the insides so we could drive it home.
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BrianC
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Posted: 08 Sep 2021 at 11:20am |
Well the brake adjust lock nut was rusted tight. I didn't want to break it (like I recently did to the clutch adjust turnbuckle).
I can see why loosening the cover should work.
However, I used the big rubber hammer on the brake pedal and it
broke free. Got to the barn and tried the brake. Locked up again. So it looks like another project is on the board.
Is it almost always the case that the ball/ramps/springs are the problem? Do the friction disks ever get stuck on the splines?
Bad year for the friction devices, prior issue was sticking/grabbing clutch.
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AC720Man
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Posted: 08 Sep 2021 at 12:26pm |
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I did my 190XT a few years ago and usually the ramps become really dry, the balls tend to slide instead of rolling and they wear a flat spot on the balls. Thankfully mine where just dry. Cleaned up all the ramps, never seize on the ramp and balls and they have worked great. Be thankful those puppies are on the outside instead of inside the of the housing. Not bad to work on at all, just pull the cover off slowly and inspect everything before you tear them apart.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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Fred in Pa
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Posted: 08 Sep 2021 at 1:38pm |
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These brakes are like the later 200 full disc .
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He who dies with the most toys is,
nonetheless ,still dead.
If all else fails ,Read all that is PRINTED.
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Rick
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Posted: 08 Sep 2021 at 3:32pm |
Could also be a spring, off one of the plates that the discs ride on, came off. Later on you'll have problems with the roller balls sticking when you use anything on them like Never Seize or anything else...they were made to be dry, because anything sticky at all will cause them to gum up...seen this many times...
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MACK
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Posted: 08 Sep 2021 at 9:17pm |
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I agree with Rick on no lube. Have tried both, antiseize will gather dirt. MACK
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SteveM C/IL
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Posted: 08 Sep 2021 at 11:07pm |
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Clean and dry works on my 220.
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Joe(TX)
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Posted: 09 Sep 2021 at 5:41am |
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If the linings are gone the balls can jam up the brake.
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1970 190XT, 1973 200, 1962 D-19 Diesel, 1979 7010, 1957 WD45, 1950 WD, 1961 D17, Speed Patrol, D14, All crop 66 big bin, 180 diesel, 1970 170 diesel, FP80 forklift. Gleaner A
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BrianC
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Posted: 09 Sep 2021 at 7:48am |
If the linings are gone then the center activator may get so wide, the ball might
just about roll out of the ramp pocket and get stuck? Pricing on each disk is almost $200, the tractor has 4. I hope it is just dirty.
As far as them being external and easier to work, that is appreciated. I have read about and watched videos of brake jobs on the other models such as the 175, WD, D17. That is a tragedy. Removing the drop downs, stuck pins, bands and disks.
But still I am pissed it lasted for only 49 years.
Had to cut down a tall Honey Locust and rip up septic system. I was mowing for therapy, and the brakes lock up, adding to my "fun".
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AC720Man
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Posted: 09 Sep 2021 at 8:57pm |
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Brian, they say bad luck comes in 3’s, your luck should be changing. Will be interesting to hear what you find once you get it apart. Seams as though there are just a few of us on here with 160’s so getting feed back from each other goes a long way to keeping them going. Let us know what you find. As far as me putting anti seize on the ramp and balls of my 190 I did not glob it on just a light coat to give lubrication after I had cleaned them up due to rust. I certainly understand the dust collection reasoning to leaving them dry but to have metal parts rubbing together causing the balls to wear flat makes no sense to me either. It’s been 6 years and I have had no issue. Everyone has their opinion and I value that. This has worked for me but obviously leaving them dry appears to work also.
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1968 B-208, 1976 720 (2 of them)Danco brush hog, single bottom plow,52" snow thrower, belly mower,rear tine tiller, rear blade, front blade, 57"sickle bar,1983 917 hydro, 1968 7hp sno-bee, 1968 190XTD
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DanWi
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Posted: 10 Sep 2021 at 12:11pm |
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Wouldn't it really come down to lube or not if the tractor was kept dry and used regularly the metal would stay shined up and not rust. If the tractor was in a more damp area and not used as often a dab of grease or anti-seize would be better to prevent rust on the raw metal?
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Rick
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Posted: 10 Sep 2021 at 1:06pm |
I think a lot of the sticking is from the lining dust getting on the roller balls and that likes to hang things up. Anything like anti-seize, grease or whatever that's tacky will be prone to cause a build up and get gummy, thus the hanging up part. Like I said...I've seen many, many 100 series brakes and others of that type have the same problem over and over, because of that. To each his own, I guess, but I run mine dry and never have ever had a problem...
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