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Turbo_760 
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Joined: 04 Dec 2011
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 Topic: Brake Drum Replacement CA Tips Tricks
Posted: 25 Jan 2012 at 1:37pm |
I need to replace the brake drum on the left side (side without the hand clutch). about 1/2 of the drum is cracked off and missing.
I have removed the brake bands and can see the there is bolt that holds the key way and drum brake on which faces the transmission. So it would appear that I need to remove the axle housing from the transmission and can leave the final drive on.
What is the best way to do this? I plan to take the wheel off but I assume that the axle housing and final drive are still heavy.
or can I remove the final drive and then pull the axle out and remove the shaft. I still probably take the axle housing off to replace the seals while I am in there.
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1951 CA
Cub Cadet 149
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Dick L
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Joined: 12 Sep 2009
Location: Edon Ohio
Points: 5087
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Posted: 25 Jan 2012 at 4:47pm |
I took one out the hard way. Just one and then it hit me, thats wat a press is for.
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wbecker
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Joined: 29 Oct 2009
Location: STL
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Posted: 25 Jan 2012 at 6:34pm |
I'm not sure of your teriminology, to me the final drive and axel housing are the same thing?
The problem I usually have getting the drum off, is it is rusted to the axel and most often only comes off in a press as Dick L. shows. Even in the press the drum often brakes apart rather than slide off, not a problem in your case since you are replacing it.
After getting the drum off and the axel out, the bearings and seals often need to be replaced.
I've done several on B's, ask if you need any more info.
Bill B
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Allis B, IB, Low B, G, D10, JD M, 8KCAB, C152
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GregLawlerMinn
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Joined: 11 Sep 2009
Location: Lawler, Mn
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Posted: 25 Jan 2012 at 6:37pm |
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Yep. Pull the final to get to the brake drum. If yours is already broke, finish the breaking with a cutoff wheel and chisel to remove whats left of the old drums...or do what Dick suggests.
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What this country needs is more unemployed politicians-and lawyers.
Currently have: 1 D14 and a D15S2.
With new owners: 2Bs,9CAs,1WD,2 D12s,5D14s,3D15S2s, 2D17SIVs,D17D,1D19D;1 Unstyled WC
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Turbo_760
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Joined: 04 Dec 2011
Points: 92
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Posted: 25 Jan 2012 at 8:18pm |
I removed the final drive today, came off pretty easy.
I think I will try to pull it off first using puller I'll have to make out of some threaded rod.
What seals do you normaly replace? I was thinking I would just have to replace the seal on the transmission housing. I need to look at my part books.
My general plan for this tractor is to get it up and running so I can use it. At some point I will go for a full rebuild and restore. My current stategy is if it is still good then i will not replace it expect for seals and gasket when I pull things apart.
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1951 CA
Cub Cadet 149
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79fordblake
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Joined: 01 Jul 2010
Location: West Kentucky
Points: 827
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Posted: 26 Jan 2012 at 12:06am |
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I just replaced the brake drum on a D17 that was bad. A puller did not even begin to make the drum budge. I cut several slices into it so it would bust with a hammer. Made my day a heck of alot easier.
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Turbo_760
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Joined: 04 Dec 2011
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Posted: 26 Jan 2012 at 7:45am |
I am not sure if the D17 is like a CA but I will assume that it is.
Did you remove the axle from the final drive and then cut it off? Or did you leave it in the housing? I haven't looked at what I would have to take apart to get it out of the housing.
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1951 CA
Cub Cadet 149
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wbecker
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Posted: 26 Jan 2012 at 8:05am |
You cannot remove the shaft the drum is on (pinion shaft) without first removing the drum.
The shaft comes out the other way (outword). There is a seal outboard of the drum, but if it's dry in there you don't need to replace it.
Bill B
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Allis B, IB, Low B, G, D10, JD M, 8KCAB, C152
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79fordblake
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Location: West Kentucky
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Posted: 26 Jan 2012 at 11:22am |
 Turbo_760 wrote:
I am not sure if the D17 is like a CA but I will assume that it is.
Did you remove the axle from the final drive and then cut it off? Or did you leave it in the housing? I haven't looked at what I would have to take apart to get it out of the housing. |
Yes its just about the same procedure on both tractors. Brake drum has to be removed before pinion shaft will come out. Here is some advice most people gave me.....if you are going to have the pinion shaft out go ahead and replace the seal even if its not leaking just for extra insurance.
Edited by 79fordblake - 26 Jan 2012 at 11:24am
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Turbo_760
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Joined: 04 Dec 2011
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Posted: 26 Jan 2012 at 12:40pm |
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Thank for the advice. I do not plan to remove the pinion shaft so I will leave the seal. It isn't leaking... but I have pulled the pan off the bottom of the final drive to see if there is any oil in there to leak.
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1951 CA
Cub Cadet 149
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SteveC(NS)
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Joined: 12 Oct 2009
Location: Nova Scotia
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Posted: 26 Jan 2012 at 2:23pm |
Turbo_760 wrote:
I have pulled the pan off the bottom of the final drive to see if there is any oil in there to leak. |
So, was there any oil in there?
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Turbo_760
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Posted: 26 Jan 2012 at 2:58pm |
SteveC(NS) wrote:
Turbo_760 wrote:
I have pulled the pan off the bottom of the final drive to see if there is any oil in there to leak. |
So, was there any oil in there? |
That was a typo on my part. I have not pulled the pan yet. I will pull it tonight and have a look
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1951 CA
Cub Cadet 149
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Turbo_760
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Posted: 26 Jan 2012 at 9:36pm |
Didn't get a chance to work on the CA tonight but thought I would post some pics
I was pleasantly surprised to find the drives still had oil in them. looks like it must have been changed at 1 point as this oil appeared to be gear oil.. very thick when I poured it out
The main gear looks to be in decent shape no broken teeth. There is definitely some wear on the teeth especially the tips, but it still has a lot of life let. 
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1951 CA
Cub Cadet 149
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SteveC(NS)
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Joined: 12 Oct 2009
Location: Nova Scotia
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Posted: 27 Jan 2012 at 1:41pm |
Good work! Must be a bit of a pain to work on that floor, I sympathize. Are you going to/able to use a press as per Dick? Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe you need to remove the bearing retainer/cap from the outboard side of the final drive and then set it up as per Dicks pic, it's frustration free and more time in the set- up than the job. The new one will go onto the cleaned up pinion shaft with a little tapping. If you don't have a press or access to one some of the more "brutal" methods mentioned before will have to be applied. Keep us informed of your progress
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Turbo_760
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Posted: 27 Jan 2012 at 1:53pm |
As you may have guessed by my working conditions I will be trying the more brutal method first....
I have a decent selection of hand tools that has served me well for all of my project. I am used to working with "not quite the right tool". Someday I will have a properly equiped shop with a cement floor!
I really looking forward to using this tractor once I get it fixed up. I plan to get a 3pt for it but that isn't going to happen for a while as funds are tight
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1951 CA
Cub Cadet 149
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