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bolt holes in lower housing of final drives |
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cdon_FL ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 15 Aug 2016 Location: NE Florida Points: 116 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 31 Jan 2017 at 2:29pm |
Mounting a Woods mower under my CA. But I believe that C and B are very similar....
The holes in the lower part of the final drive housing have 4 holes each. Two of them seem to be smooth bore and two are threaded. The holes in my woods mount pretty well match (CL to CL) with the threaded holes, but those threaded holes seem shallow and not particularly strong. Is not my intent to jerk out stumps with a chain hooked to my mower deck, but is there a way to increase the strength of my mount where it attaches to the final drive housings (?) Do these threaded holes have a bottom ? and for bonus points....What are the smooth holes for (?) |
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Chris in NE Florida
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cdon_FL ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 15 Aug 2016 Location: NE Florida Points: 116 |
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My bolt holes were crusted up with paint and gunk. Blew them out pretty well with my air nozzle -- just not sure how far to run the bolts into them.
Seem to bottom out after just a few complete rotations. Can't tell if I have running into gunk or that's as far as they go. |
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Chris in NE Florida
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Bob-Maine ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Central Maine Points: 922 |
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Chris,
I will speak to the Models B and C. I would have to look at My CA to see if it is same. The holes are used to fasten the draw bar to the tractor. A clamp or lock is used which has a smooth round extension which fits through the draw bar and into the smooth hole. The lock goes on the outer surface of the draw bar and a threaded bolt goes through both the lock and the draw bar. The draw bar height can be adjusted as there are three holes in it into which the bolt can be inserted to vary the height. I am going to leave alone your idea of jerking out stumps with a chain hooked to a mover deck. Any tractor I have seen has cautions about pulling from any place but the draw bar. Be safe. Bob@allisdowneast |
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I used to think I was indecisive, but now I'm not sure.
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steve(ill) ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: illinois Points: 86655 |
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the threaded holes are 5/8 inch on all except the very early Bs that were 1/2 inch. I would guess they are 7/8 inch deep.. The threads do get old and sloppy over the years. I have drilled out some to 7/8 inch and installed helicoils to get back to 5/8 inch. ... clean out the holes with a pick, and use a bottom tap to get threads as deep as possible, if they are still good ....When drilling out the hole, if you go thru the case, its not a big deal.... just gear lube inside... put sealer on the threads of the bolt when you install to keep oil inside............. as mentioned, the smooth hole is a locater pin for the bracket...It also gives you something to "PULL" against in addition to the bolt, but stumps might be a little much !!
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Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Dakota Dave ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: ND Points: 3969 |
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The threaded holes on my C have been tapped oversized to 3/4" To tap them requires a bottoming tape as ther not very deep But the CA still has 5/8" holes. The smooth holes are for the draw bar of plow drop brackets on a B or C the pull force of the draw bar is Thur these pins and the threaded holes are to hold the clamps in place. When installing the woods mount it's very important to use the spacers between the mount and the castings. The spacers are a very tight squeeze between them. Properly installed they are quite strong. I have hit the barn foundation with the end of the mower deck and it stops the tractor.
Edited by Dakota Dave - 31 Jan 2017 at 9:10pm |
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Chalmersbob ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Pennsylvania Points: 2122 |
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The holes in question were from the B & C. Used to mount the drawbar. You will not hurt them even if you try to pull out a stump. Bob
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4 B's, 1 C's,3 CA's, 2 G's WD, D14, D15, B-1, B10, B12, 712S,
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bradley6874 ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 05 Sep 2010 Location: salisbury md Points: 1349 |
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If your worried About how deep the threads are, chase the threads and put a stud in that way you get full thread and then use a lock nut
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You can wash the dirt off the body but you can’t wash the farmer out of the heart and soul
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Dick L ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5087 |
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If I was you I would rethink using the mower deck as a drawbar for pulling stumps. An Allis C drawbar will work with a Woods mower and can be on the tractor all the time to pull other things. Might be cheaper than rebuilding a bent twisted mower.
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stu(ON) ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 377 |
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Is not my intent to jerk out stumps with a chain hooked to my mower
deck, but is there a way to increase the strength of my mount where it
attaches to the final drive housings (?)
In this day of misinformation and alternative facts, it remains interesting how a misinterpretation can carry itself through an entire thread. Or are you guys just pulling the OP's leg? Edited by stu(ON) - 04 Feb 2017 at 8:57am |
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Dick L ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5087 |
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Hooking to a mower mount is hooking to part of a mower. Adding a drawbar solves the problem. The C drawbar will fit as in the picture. I have practiced the occupation of breaking things taking short cuts for over 50 years and was passing on my (OPINION) from experience. So sorry if I ruffled your feathers and caused you to print colors to point out my stupidity. If you look at the drawbar mount you are pulling on three shear pulling points on both sides. Remember you have no more strength in the depth of threads than the diameter of the bolt in good threads. That is why bolt nuts are not three inches long. ![]() This is what goes in the smooth hole and is shown in the above picture. ![]() Edited by Dick L - 04 Feb 2017 at 10:15am |
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