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Blade for model B?

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Ziradog View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ziradog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Blade for model B?
    Posted: 21 Feb 2015 at 1:25pm
Did Allis ever offer a back blade for the B?  I don't have snap coupler nor 3-point adapter, but am getting a gravel driveway & thought a blade might be helpful maintaining it.  hate to spring for a 3-point adapter & the blade too though.
1953 "B"
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Dick L View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2015 at 1:56pm
I never heard of a back blade just for the B without a three point. I have seen pictures of a belly blade for grading drives mounted under a B that were home built that really looked good.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2015 at 3:10pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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steve(ill) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote steve(ill) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2015 at 3:11pm
the above was made out of a plow beam. If you have a rock shaft and cylinder, you could do similar. I bought the tractor with the beam and blade already on... it wobbled all over. I added the 2 inch pipe brace to one side. It slides and pins to adjust the left- right angle.......... I guess you could start from scratch and pin a 3 inch pipe or c-channel under the transmission area that stuck back 5 ft, to a blade / plate.

Edited by steve(ill) - 21 Feb 2015 at 3:15pm
Like them all, but love the "B"s.
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Dakota Dave View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dakota Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2015 at 3:43pm
If you want to use for grading a belly mounted blade works so much better than a rear mounted. I've built a couple for C s and still have one. Just run a push bar foward from each plow point or else from the draw bar wel one side to a grader blade and make a pivot for the other side. A couple cables pulleys and hand levers and your in business. I'll try and find a picture of one mounted.



Edited by Dakota Dave - 21 Feb 2015 at 4:43pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jaybmiller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2015 at 3:59pm
The old farmer across the road would pull a length of chain link fence behind his tractor after church and before lunch every Sunday.500' driveway,putt,putt,putt...sure was a nice looking weedfree,level driveway!

JAy

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Kubota BX23S lil' TOOT( The Other Orange Tractor)

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulB Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Feb 2015 at 6:24pm
It's real easy to make a belly blade for a B or C starting with a plow drawbar. We had 3 oak 2X6 s bolted on the plow drawbar of our B back in the 60s when I was a kid. you'd be surprised how much it would go through.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dakota Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2015 at 2:12pm
When you have a back blade every time the front wheel go over a bump or down a dip the rear wheel act as a fulcrum and the back blade moves about as far in the opposite direction. When you have a belly blade it moves in the same direction but only halve as far. It's much easier to get a nice smooth surface with the blade in the middle. Just fix the blade at about a 30 deg angle and dirt and gravel will roll smoothly from one side to the other. Feather the outboard end to limit the spread to where you want it. If you want it on the other side drive the other direction. To maintance a real nice road make a pass pulling material to the center. On the second pass cut about half the center and feather the edge. Done correctly this will leave a crow in the middle and you'll have a nice smooth road. In the spring we would doo this every week. And as summer drys it out cut down to once a month.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WF owner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Feb 2015 at 4:24pm
Originally posted by steve(ill) steve(ill) wrote:

the above was made out of a plow beam. If you have a rock shaft and cylinder, you could do similar...


I have a B plow that is manual lift for my 39 B without hydraulics. I think you could build a manual lift blade from a plow frame.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ziradog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 2015 at 9:25am
Seems to be two camps: 1. Use a belly blade, 2. Make a rear blade set up using a plow arm.  I do have the rocker shaft & hydraulics on my B, but no plow parts lying around.
 
It also sounds like I want to be able to adjust the angle from sidie to side (my old Gibson only had 3 positions: straight, left 30 degrees, right 30 degrees).  Also need to be able to lift it (duh).  Do I need to be able to adjust the tilt top to bottom?
 
The gravel section is only going to be about 30' long, so I don't want to spend too much time/$$$ on it and do want to be able to install/remove it fairly easily.  That would seem to favor a rear blade.  Everything else would seem to favor a belly blade.  Guess I better start looking at some examples & my scrap pile.  Thanks for the help.
1953 "B"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote corbinstein Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 2015 at 10:20am
How about using a cultivator equipment rack and then just drop the cultivators for favor of the Blade?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CrestonM Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Feb 2015 at 2:56pm
Originally posted by corbinstein corbinstein wrote:

How about using a cultivator equipment rack and then just drop the cultivators for favor of the Blade?


I've been contemplating doing the same thing on my G.
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