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Best round bailer for d17 series 1 |
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Hunt4Allis ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Mar 2018 Location: Ohio Points: 1172 |
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Posted: 15 Sep 2022 at 8:14am |
What would I look for in a round baler( make model and buying used)if one exists running behind d17 series 1 gas?
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21541 |
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Got 2-way hydraulics on your D-17 ??
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Allis dave ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 10 May 2012 Location: Northern IN Points: 3007 |
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I don't see that working well on a Series 1. 2 way hydraulics are required to open and close the door unless you get creative.
It's a pretty small tractor for a round bailer. You wouldn't want to go bigger than a 4x4 bale I'd think Edited by Allis dave - 15 Sep 2022 at 11:20am |
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exSW ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 21 Jul 2017 Location: Pennsylvania Points: 914 |
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Hydraulics are the hangup. One of those New Idea 484's or derivatives would work fine. 40 hp will run one just fine.There's a vid on youtube of a guy running one with a WD. You can pick up a nice clean shedded one for under five grand.
Edited by exSW - 15 Sep 2022 at 11:40am |
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Learning AC...slowly
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DSeries4 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Ontario, Canada Points: 7455 |
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For a series 1, there is no good round baler! The series 1 (and 2 and 3) hydraulic system is very antiquated and does not have the capacity to efficiently run a round baler. IF you want a D17 to run a round baler, you need a Series 4. It has the modern 2 way high volume hydraulic system that round balers use.
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'49 G, '54 WD45, '55 CA, '56 WD45D, '57 WD45, '58 D14, '59 D14, '60 D14, '61 D15D, '66 D15II, '66 D21II, '67 D17IV, '67 D17IVD, '67 190XTD, '73 620, '76 185, '77 175, '84 8030, '85 6080
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Hunt4Allis ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Mar 2018 Location: Ohio Points: 1172 |
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Hmmm, sounds like last 2 posts are opposite from each other ( 1 says d17 will, next says can't unless has 2way hydraulic s?)
Can I make my series 1 have 2way?sounds like hp isn't the issue... |
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exSW ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 21 Jul 2017 Location: Pennsylvania Points: 914 |
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You will have to plumb a way for the non pressure line to return to the tractors hydraulic sump. I've yet to see it done that doesn't look Rube Goldbergish at best.
Edited by exSW - 15 Sep 2022 at 5:57pm |
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Learning AC...slowly
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im4racin ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 12 Jun 2017 Location: Garrison ND Points: 1024 |
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rotobaler…
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AC7060IL ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 19 Aug 2012 Location: central IL Points: 3499 |
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Hunt4Allis,
Allis-Chalmers Roto-baler would be a given. But If you’re after a big round baler, then some hydraulic modifications would be necessary/suggested? With hydraulic mods, the older Vermeer model F, model G, ... might suffice at an moderate pace?? These balers are good simple designs that produce a larger 6’tall x 5’ wide bale. But,... you don’t have to entirely capacitate baler to 6’ tall? Can stop/finish bale at any height(3’,4’,5’...??). Depending on material being baled, bale capacity (weight) could be a factor?? What are you wanting to bale? Straw? Hay? Cornstalks, ....etc?? |
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caledonian ![]() Silver Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 02 Apr 2016 Location: Nebraska Points: 470 |
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Hesston and AGCO balers had their own hydraulic pump and system PTO driven, do not need tractors hydraulics. But a D17 would be plenty light for a 5 by 6-foot baler.
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Clay ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Udall, Kansas Points: 9720 |
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Even if a Series 1,2 or 3 D-17 had an adequate hydraulic system (which they do not, IMHO). The brake system lacks the stopping power required for a big round baler.
Just because a tractor can pull an implement does not mean it can stop safely.
Edited by Clay - 15 Sep 2022 at 8:04pm |
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jvin248 ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 17 Jan 2022 Location: Detroit Points: 432 |
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. Check out these videos... Just a WD running a large round baler. Installation of the two-way valve robbed off another tractor. Running the WD+round baler in the field rolling up the hay. .
Edited by jvin248 - 15 Sep 2022 at 8:34pm |
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Ky.Allis ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Jan 2010 Location: Kentucky Points: 1022 |
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Ok, you get it plumbed for 2 way hydraulics and get a full bale. The tailgate will raise SUPER SLOW unless you increase Hyd. flow by adding front pump and more reservoir capacity. If you only bale a few bales I guess you could get by if you have plenty of time.
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 12029 |
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That was going to be my reply, but I held off.
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Hunt4Allis ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Mar 2018 Location: Ohio Points: 1172 |
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After watching video of plumbing 2 way valve I do have a return to pump line already so I think my d17 would be same principle.
I will look at roto balers option also,thanks! Anyone have a good 2 way valve they want to part with? |
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21541 |
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You'd better settle in on what baler you're going to use first!! Some balers may require TWO VALVES instead of one. Some might have electric twine tie or some might have hydraulic. You need at least ONE 2-way valve to open and close the tailgate.
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Tbone95 ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() ![]() Joined: 31 Aug 2012 Location: Michigan Points: 12029 |
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And further to Doc's last comment, you haven't told us what you're baling and how much of it? This will probably step on some toes.....but if you're doing actual "farming" or wanting to grow into it, skip the rotobaler. At this point in time, they are truly for hobbyists, for several reasons.
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matador ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 10 Nov 2014 Location: Wyoming Points: 1727 |
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If there’s a 4x4 Hesston with it’s own hydraulic pump, that would be your best bet. A larger round baler is just out of the question. My Case 830 doesn’t like my Deere 530 baler, and that’s a tractor that’s a good bit larger than what you have. To keep that baler running happy in thick straw, we had to put it on our White 2-105. Those large bales take a lot of power to turn. Stick with a small size bale
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Tractors: Allis WD (x2), Allis 7040, Oliver 1800A Diesel, Case 830 Caseomatic, White 2-105, Massey 1105 | Plus a Gleaner F2, 30' A-C 1300 Cultivator, Flightline bale elevator
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BillinAlberta ![]() Silver Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Saskatchewan Points: 353 |
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My D17 series 2 has an E Gleaner engine and I run a Claas Rollant 62 4x5 baler.
It has to be run slower than when I had a 7085 Deutz-allis but it works fine.The power director is actually handier. I have also run it behind my series 4 D17 but the difference in horsepower is noticable. We put up as many as 200 alfalfa/grass bales and 100 straw bales in a year. The hydraulics come from the front mounted loader pump. Edited by BillinAlberta - 16 Sep 2022 at 10:32am |
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Gregor ![]() Silver Level ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: Prague, Ne Points: 305 |
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I agree with Billinalberta as you need a 4x5 baler.. Do you have hills? I have a D 17 and that would not be capable of running my 856A Hesston baler. Ya empty and maybe making a half bale, but I'd struggle to keep from stuffing full and I'd think it push the D 17 sideways on a hillside and if any wetness. I often pull it with my white 105 and works good with that. I'd think you'd have to look for a 4x5 baler or a smaller style. My Hesston doesn't utilize the tractor hydraulics and has a pump system on it that the PTO drives and use the bale monitor (electric over hydraulic) to control the lift gate/kicker, and the pickup. So look for one that doesn't need hydraulics.
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Hunt4Allis ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Mar 2018 Location: Ohio Points: 1172 |
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I would make at most 20 round bales per year(mostly orchard Grass, Timothy, and clover mixs)honestly if a wd45 will run a new idea 483 like he shows in video after installing 2way valve in other video( both links from post today from jvin 248)I don't see why my d17 would not handle it(of course I'm not trying to set any speed records, I use a 7 ft Allis Chalmers sickle mower.) I currently cut with that and rake with an old steel wheeled international harvester rake. I only pay to have bales made so I'm thinking of what I could get to not have to rely on someone else and pay them, with using what I have in tractors... Only a couple cows and small hobby farm here...
Edited by Hunt4Allis - 16 Sep 2022 at 11:35am |
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Hunt4Allis ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Mar 2018 Location: Ohio Points: 1172 |
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Looks like a wd 45 hydraulic valve is mounted under seat area on exterior, wonder if my d17 will be as simple to access?( I never paid attention to where it's valve is located for hydraulic?)
I would also need to know what the new idea cylinders pressure ratings were to make sure that if I did run it from my d17 that it wouldn't be too high of a pressure it sounds like correct? Edited by Hunt4Allis - 16 Sep 2022 at 2:09pm |
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21541 |
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Any older D-17 needs the additional valves to the left of the seat so you can operate the hand clutch and hydraulic levers at the same time.
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Hunt4Allis ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Mar 2018 Location: Ohio Points: 1172 |
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I'm not sure what you mean by" so I can operate the hand clutch and hydraulics at the same time"?
It looks like in the guys video on YouTube that if you have a return line which I do it could come from my current hydraulic fitting that is the supply into the two-way valve and connect the return into that valve. Am I correct in that thinking? |
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21541 |
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Locate and mount your 2-way valve to the left of the seat where is is easy for you to reach. The "IN" port on the 2-way valve needs a hose connected to it that will reach around to plug into the remote outlet on the tractor that already exists. When you want 2-way hydraulics, plug the hose into your remote outlet and raise the LIFT/LOWER lever to the top window and lock it to stay up. You will now have 2-way hydraulics set at 2,000 psi. When you disconnect the hose, your tractor will then be like it was before, single acting and 3,700 psi. The "OUT" port on the 2-way valve needs to return to the hydraulic sump. If you have an existing return line, you may be able to graft in a tee at one end or the other.
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exSW ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 21 Jul 2017 Location: Pennsylvania Points: 914 |
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Best ,most concise explanation I've yet heard on how to do this. Now to find a correctly oriented valve. Otherwise it'll look like you dropped acid before you plumbed it. And also buy a baler with electric tie.
Edited by exSW - 17 Sep 2022 at 4:01pm |
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Learning AC...slowly
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thendrix ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 Feb 2013 Location: Fairmount GA Points: 5040 |
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M&W 4500 has electric tie
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"Farming is a business that makes a Las Vegas craps table look like a regular paycheck" Ronald Reagan
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Hunt4Allis ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Mar 2018 Location: Ohio Points: 1172 |
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How does it go from 3700 down to 2,000 by adding the valve? (Is it a special valve that limits it down?)
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21541 |
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The kind of 2-way valve you should be using for this application has its own relief valve built into it. The pressure setting should be 2,000 to 2,200 psi.
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Hunt4Allis ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 13 Mar 2018 Location: Ohio Points: 1172 |
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Okay, thanks for the info
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