B-Allis Chalmers

Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic

   I bought my son a CA and my son in law a B a couple years ago. the CA still runs like a champ but the B has never ran like it should. The motor has great compression, and is timed correctly. I replaced the points, condenser, coil and rebuilt the carb. the only thing that helped was the carb but now it's doing it again. It will start and run pretty good but sounds somewhat loke it's loaded with fuel. If the idle scwer is set at 1 3/4 turns out it sounds like its flooding but if you run it all the way in it sounds good. It will sit there and idle or you can through the throttle wide open and it still runs good but if you get on it and move around it will cut off. It will restart in a minute and do the same all over but you can leave it sitting with the throttle wide open it will run all day. What have I overlooked or am I missing something? thanks. Nat

	This site is not affiliated with AGCO Inc., Duluth GA., Allis-Chalmers Co., Milwaukee, WI., or any surviving or related corporate entity. All trademarks remain the property of their respective owners. All information presented herein should be considered the result of an un-moderated public forum with no responsibility for its accuracy or usability assumed by the users and sponsors of this site or any corporate entity.
	The Forum	Parts and Services	Unofficial Allis Store	Tractor Shows	Serial Numbers	History

Author	Message Topic Search Topic Options Post Reply Create New Topic Printable Version Translate Topic
Nat Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 22 Sep 2009 Location: Lexington NC Points: 141	Post Options Post Reply Quote Nat Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: B-Allis Chalmers Posted: 12 Aug 2014 at 2:29pm
	I bought my son a CA and my son in law a B a couple years ago. the CA still runs like a champ but the B has never ran like it should. The motor has great compression, and is timed correctly. I replaced the points, condenser, coil and rebuilt the carb. the only thing that helped was the carb but now it's doing it again. It will start and run pretty good but sounds somewhat loke it's loaded with fuel. If the idle scwer is set at 1 3/4 turns out it sounds like its flooding but if you run it all the way in it sounds good. It will sit there and idle or you can through the throttle wide open and it still runs good but if you get on it and move around it will cut off. It will restart in a minute and do the same all over but you can leave it sitting with the throttle wide open it will run all day. What have I overlooked or am I missing something? thanks. Nat
	Nat

Sponsored Links

Dick L Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5087	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dick L Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 Aug 2014 at 3:06pm
	For this discussion the carburetor has two circuits. The idle circuit and the power circuit. The adjustment at the top is the air adjustment for (idle) Most B's do not have an adjustment for the power. The factory determined the size orifice needed for full power for the way the engine was built. The idle rpm is actually set with the stop screw on the backside of the carburetor. The idle adjustment screw is to mix the correct amount of air into the fuel to make the engine run smooth where the stop screw is set. To get the smooth running at idle both the stop screw and air adjustment screw will need to turned a small amount each until you have the desired rpm's. When you are running wide open you are not in the idle circuit. You can at that point remove the idle screw and it will still run fine. If you can not get the idle adjusted you may have dirt in the idle circuit blocking fuel or air. Could even be a gasket covering a hole.

Nat Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 22 Sep 2009 Location: Lexington NC Points: 141	Post Options Post Reply Quote Nat Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 Aug 2014 at 5:05pm
	I took the carb back apart and cleaned it really good and for 20 minutes it ran as nice as new. someone has removed the setteling bowl and replaced it with one that doesnt have a shut off. they then put a plastic cut off valve in line so I'm thinking that is the problem. maybe not letting enough fuel to keep the bowl full makeing it run fine sitting but sputter and stop when moving. Does that make sense to anyone?
	Nat

Dick L Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5087	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dick L Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 Aug 2014 at 8:02pm
	The first thing I would do at this point would be to take the plug out of the bottom of the carburetor and see how long you get a good flow of fuel out of the bottom of the carburetor. If not solve that problem by what ever means it takes. New sediment bowel? New fuel line? Just make sure you have a good flow. I would venture a guess that you are dealing with more than one problem. When you are running wide open and it does not have enough power to move the tractor in low gear you might want to check timing. If a good fuel flow solves you problem your done but if it doesn't timing would be the next place I would check. Tackle one thing at a time.

Dean (West MI) Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: West Michigan Points: 1282	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dean (West MI) Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 12 Aug 2014 at 9:07pm
	Why not take the carb off the CA and put it on the B and see how it runs? If it runs good, then you know the problem is in the B carb. If it doesn't run right, then start on other things. Process of elimination, start with the known variable and work from there.