B Starter Grounding Problem

Ok...I know this has been covered before, but never thought it would happen to me. Since July 2016 the starter on my B has been very sluggish and most of the time doesn't turn the motor over. To "get by" I've been cranking it by hand. No problem. Always starts quick, and I have never had a kick back, until recently. I noticed it just didn't seem to idle right. It sounded like it was running "lean" and could die any second (I think you guys know what that sounds like). However, it would run that way all day long, but still didn't sound right. So, while it was running, I advanced the timing a bit and made it sound worlds better. Now it has that deep throaty sound and pulls much better than it did. (not that a B can rumble very deep, but you get the idea) The down fall of this is I can't hand crank it without a wicked kick back. I almost broke my arm the first time I tried, and now I'm a little hesitant to try again even several weeks later, as my arm is still sore. It's not how I'm holding the crank, the crank kicks back out of my hand, and makes the spin around and hits the back side of my forearm, all in an instant before I have a chance to withdraw my arm. 

Edited by CrestonM - 26 Mar 2018 at 6:55pm

I guess you have the starter switch bolted to the starter with a push rod ?

I would think there are car starters from that era that would fit these tractors. Why would they specify a whole new starter when the wheel had already been invented? I'd wonder if there aren't car starters that don't have that silly mechanical switch.

Creston you need to re check the timing as they shouldn't kick like you said.  Steve is right on the starter I'm sure but I've seen em not crank if the timing is too far advanced. I think you have two problems.

To help with the grounding problem, put some grease around the install bolt.  That will help insure a good contact.

I am hoping you have lights on the tractor?!  Start with your battery fully charged 24 hours BEFORE you try this.....it will give the battery a time to 'rest' for the next step. 

Turn the light switch to ON.  Now, push the starter rod and see if the headlight go dim or go OUT.  Dimming down is normal, going OUT is a BAD battery.

You can bench test the starter yourself, just put it into a vise and hook the battery to the vise with jumper cables.  Now clamp the starter into the vise so it can't jump around when you hit the switch with the other jumper cable.  I have opened my vise and just sat the starter in it and held it down by hand.  It is just going to push the starter bendix out and make it spin.  Might scare you at first, but nothing to worry about.  You have to 'lock' the starter switch in the 'closed' position, as if you are pushing the rod.  Now, did it turn EVERY time you touched the starter switch?  Are you using the battery out of the tractor? or a different one? ** (going up to the top and put a 1st step in)

Now, after you get it running, get it timed.  I think you've got it too far advanced.  It shouldn't kick back at all....almost never....
Time it and then check the points gap...
You need to buy a timing light and a dwell meter.
Hope this helps!!  Wish I was there to help you.

If the generator is the original 3 brush generator with the charging current set by the light switch it is dependent on the operator backing off on the charging rate after a while to keep from overcharging the battery. If the operator keeps it charging too long the water of the electrolyte will be dissociated into hydrogen and oxygen and the battery will need that water replaced often. The next generation voltage regulators were a definite step forward towards proper battery maintenance.

Gerald J.

If it kicks back, your timing is too far advanced. If the crank hit you in the arm, your not doing it right. Stand to the right as you face the front, pull crank over the top and your arm can't be in the way  of kick back.
 For the starter, take the switch apart and file the copper contacts so they are FLAT and meet perfect when engaged.

CTuckerNWIL wrote: If it kicks back, your timing is too far advanced. If the crank hit you in the arm, your not doing it right. Stand to the right as you face the front, pull crank over the top and your arm can't be in the way  of kick back.  For the starter, take the switch apart and file the copper contacts so they are FLAT and meet perfect when engaged.

You also need to check to see if the centrifugal advance mechanism is working. If its stuck in one position from not being lubricated properly or from the springs on the weights having broken, it won't retard the spark for crank starting or for battery starting. An engine with spark before top dead center can stall a good starter.

Gerald J.

I never had one of these engines kick when timed at TDC before starting the engine. That is seeing the number one plug or plug wire spark. Not moving the crank at upon spark you want the TDC line in the center of the inspection hole. You can do it with your timing light. When timed in this manor I have always seen the fire line in the center of the inspection hole at high idle. Adjusting the timing on these engines different than with the Fire line in the inspection hole at high idle is miss guided and will reduce your performance.

If I could have gained performance with a different timing I assure you I would have been all over it. I built my own pulling track and tested every adjustment before loading tractors to pull.

I have probly posted this video 50 times on here but even if you don't want to watch it, it gives me another reason to wish I was still pulling.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hM4YbM8keMM&t=51s

Dick L wrote: I never had one of these engines kick when timed at TDC before starting the engine. That is seeing the number one plug or plug wire spark. Not moving the crank at upon spark you want the TDC line in the center of the inspection hole. You can do it with your timing light. When timed in this manor I have always seen the fire line in the center of the inspection hole at high idle. Adjusting the timing on these engines different than with the Fire line in the inspection hole at high idle is miss guided and will reduce your performance. If I could have gained performance with a different timing I assure you I would have been all over it. I built my own pulling track and tested every adjustment before loading tractors to pull. I have probly posted this video 50 times on here but even if you don't want to watch it, it gives me another reason to wish I was still pulling. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hM4YbM8keMM&t=51s

Edited by CrestonM - 29 Mar 2018 at 6:01pm