B rear wheel question

This is my first post to this forum, and I am confident that the knowledge base here can help me. I was recently gifted a 1950 Allis B (serial# B110560). This tractor has been in my family for as long as my father can remember. It belonged to my great-uncle, and was passed down to his oldest grandson(my cousin). His grandson was who gave it to me a couple months ago. My father remembers plowing with it when he was young, and I used it on the farm to rake hay as a teenager, so it has a lot of family history and sentimental value. I brought the B home just before Christmas, and have been working to get it mechanically sound again. My plans for it is to get it mechanically sound, and then decide if it is worth a full restoration down the road a bit. Currently it will run, but I have the gas tank off to remove the rust and the carburetor needs to be rebuilt. I have ordered some parts, and am currently waiting on some wheel wedges to arrive to replace two on the left wheel. My current question is with the cast rear hub on the right side. I am pretty sure that the splines are worn in the hub, since I can hold the brakes and the cast hub will rotate some on the final axle shaft. I have looked at countless pictures on this forum and the internet, but I am not sure how to remove this cast hub from the axle. Do I have to remove the axle from the final drive housing, or is there something else holding the hub on that I am not seeing? Many pictures show a nut in the center, but this one does not have one. Please point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance for your help.

One that I removed that looked that I used a 48 inch pipe wrench with a pipe on the handle with heat and still pulled the threads on the axle. If I would have been able to do it over I would have cut the nut with a skinny wheel next to just above the threads so hitting the flat edge of the nut would have opened the threads of the nut.

I think I would find a new nut, and do like Dick suggests, with splitting the nut.

Dakota Dave wrote: That big round thing with three holes is a nut takes a spanner wrench to remove it. Probably need to heat it to get it off.you can make a wrench just cut it out of some 1/4" steel and weld three pins to it . Use a piece of cardboard for a templet. Get the pins in the correct spots and the hole for the axle stub to stick Thur. Weld a long pipe on for a handle.

Those 3 holes are tapped for mounting a sprocket on the wheel. No need to make a spanner wrench. If the nut isn't frozen on the shaft, you could just chase the threads and put a couple bolts in, with a locking nut, and stick a bar between the bolts.

Thanks for the advice. It was pretty obvious that the shaft was threaded after I knocked the rust off with a wire brush. I was able to chase the threads in the three holes last night, and threaded two longer bolts into the holes. I was able to easily remove the nut with a pry bar between the bolts. I was not thrilled with what I found with the hub removed. Both the cast hub and the splines on the axle shaft are worn from years of running loose. Knowing that this tractor will probably be on parade duty and not worked hard (we have other larger tractors on the farm), I am going to remove the final from the tractor so that I can work on it in the vertical orientation, and try repairing it using Devcon Plastic Steel Liquid. I read of guys using it to repair crawler and skidder final drive splines, and the repair holds in that harsh environment. I think my chances are good on a 17 hp tractor. Anyone used this or a similar product?

First tighten up the nut as much as you can and push the hub inward. It should get tight on the splines. If it bottoms out and not tight, then look at the back of the hub. There is a ridge about 1/4 inch high that might be hitting the case. I have ground 1/8 inch off that ridge to let the hub slide on further to the threads.

Edited by steve(ill) - 06 Feb 2020 at 10:00am

cdsloop wrote: I am going to remove the final from the tractor so that I can work on it in the vertical orientation, and try repairing it using Devcon Plastic Steel Liquid. I read of guys using it to repair crawler and skidder final drive splines, and the repair holds in that harsh environment. I think my chances are good on a 17 hp tractor. Anyone used this or a similar product?

I have used a Moglice product on a 2500 ton forge press, to keep the flywheel in place. I cut some wedges to drive in between the shaft and the flywheel bore so I could get the face and OD run-out to a minimum. Then I bolted a plate I made, to the face of the gear and just pumped the gap full thru 1/4 NPT holes I had drilled to match the 'gap'. Let it set up for a day, and the thing ran 24-7 for 6 months and was still stuck in place.

Looks like there are 2 washers, that have been added, under the nut, in the pics.  I think somebody has been in there, sometime in the past.  Don't think they are factory...

cds,

I would fit the wheel center on the shaft after it is all cleaned up to see how far it will go. Make sure if it bottoms out on the shoulder, that it won't rock around or rotate at all. Then I would dress the shoulder back as needed for a bit of clearance. Then I might consider making 3 small shims that are just a bit thicker than the gap between the wheel and the shoulder when fit dry. Fill any wore spots with the mixture and snug everything up on the 3 equally spaced shims behind the wheel. Let it set up, remove the shims and tighten the nut.

I would also replace the axle seal while it apart.

My plans for it is to get it mechanically sound, and then decide if it is worth a full restoration down the road a bit. Currently it will run, but I have the gas tank off to remove the rust and the carburetor needs to be rebuilt. I have ordered some parts, and am currently waiting on some wheel wedges to arrive to replace two on the left wheel. My current question