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B rear valve stem/axle interferance

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DaveKamp View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: B rear valve stem/axle interferance
    Posted: 12 Jun 2011 at 9:54pm
Hi All!

I have a particularly perplexing problem to publicly ponder.

My '48 B had tires set to not the outermost, but quite-a-ways-out position with hub flare turned inward (meaning, if I flipped the hubs, they'd be WAY WAY out... but they were about out as far as they can get without flipping the centers....

Anyway, the valve stems were facing out.  To get to the INNER positions, the valve stem has'ta face in, which is the way my '39 B is.

Well, the rear track is substantially wider than the front, and while I like the stability, I certainly never needed it, and it's always been a problem getting it in and out of it's 'spot' in the barn, because it was about a foot-and-a-half wider track in the rear.

So John and I jacked and blocked it, flipped the wheels (and swapped sides, so they're facing the right direction).... and it was almost same track as front tires...

But when I spun the wheels, the @@#%%^ valve stem contacted the axle tube!!!

Now, this has tubes with large cores, where you thread the adapter in to use a Schrader type chuck.  Fortunately, it just broke the end off the adapter, and the valve in there was stuck anyway, so no loss of fluid or air.

Had 'ta do something, so I unscrewed both adapters, sawed 'em off, and filled the hole through with epoxy, and threaded 'em back in.  Yep, lost air pressure and fluid, but only so much.  Obviously, I can't pump 'em back up now, but I could at least drive it back into the barn.

But WTH do I have this interference problem?  Seems to me, there'd be plenty of clearance... unless of course, the thing was never intended to have the fat core tubes, and the original stems were supposed to be turned...

But I look at my '39, and there's much more stem clearance.  Now, I haven't gone out to look at tire size... but they don't LOOK any different in diameter... and obviously someone didn't 'substitute' different wheels, 'cause there really ISN"T a compatible substitute... so what in the wide world'a sports is 'a goin' on here???


Edited by DaveKamp - 12 Jun 2011 at 9:54pm
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Boogerowen View Drop Down
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Joined: 23 Apr 2011
Location: Mannford Ok
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Boogerowen Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2011 at 9:20am
What kind of "suds" are you sippin ???
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Nathan (SD) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nathan (SD) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2011 at 10:10am
Do you have the C style rear wheel castings? Those have more adjustment than a B can handle. Those cannot be set as far in as they allow.  If you got the regular one nut wheel castings I would wonder it your eccentrics are right.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wfmurray Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2011 at 11:22am
I think you could  solve problem  but it would involve quit a bit of work . Take tires of rims  and reverse direction of tread and remount.
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DaveKamp View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2011 at 11:45am
I must be drinkin' too much calcium-chloride water... perhaps I should clarify-

This doesn't have 'spin out' rims... it has bolt-on rims, where the the 2-petal wheel centers (5-bolt flange) with four 'loops' on each rim.  You can mount the rim with loops either facing in, or out... and you can mount the wheel center to the inside, or outside of the wheel center... and you can flip the wheel center so that the offset faces in, or out.

When using the rim flipped to put the loops facing outward, this puts the valve stem  facing towards the inside... such that when the wheel turns, the stem strikes the axle tube.  This interferance is possible on the second-to-closest setting, and closest setting.

I looked at my '39, which has different centers (tapered shaft, non-reversable), but already has stems facing inward... and there's plenty of room... like the rim is larger diameter than the '48...  baffling.
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DaveKamp View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2011 at 11:55am
Taking off tires and reversing 'em won't change the fact that the valve stem faces the axle... in order to get the narrow widths, the stem HAS to face inward... the only other solution, would be to dismount the tires and tubes, plug the old stem hole, drill a new stem hole, reverse the TUBE, and put the tires back on.  Kinda silly IMO... I'm sure they had something in mind when they designed this...

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dakota Dave Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2011 at 12:25pm
thats because it never came with loop wheels. the valve stemm hole on a original wheel is on the hump side of the rim. this is to prevent the problem you are having. When the wheels are in the narrowest position the valve stem should be on the outside of the rim. take them off redrill the rim on the correct side. or live with what youve got.  make sure the new hole is located between the loops so it lines up with the notch in the wheel center.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2011 at 1:36pm
My rears are all the way in.  Valve stems on outside. 1949 B


Bob, North Carolina

1949 B
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Jacob (WI,ND) View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jacob (WI,ND) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2011 at 8:56pm
Originally posted by Dakota Dave Dakota Dave wrote:

thats because it never came with loop wheels.
Bingo was his name-o    ;)
Jacob Swanson
1920 6-12; 1925,1926 20-35 longfenders; 1925,1926 15-25's; 1927,1929 20-35 shortfenders; C; B's; IB; WC's; WD; WD45
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DaveKamp View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2011 at 9:49pm
So if the '48B never came with loop-bolt wheels...  what did the come OFF of?  They're wearing 24" tires...

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DaveKamp View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2011 at 10:08pm
Here it is-  this one is on a C... this is what's on my B...  if the axle housings are same, though... how did they make this wheel clear when flipped IN?









Edited by DaveKamp - 13 Jun 2011 at 10:09pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2011 at 11:09pm
Dave, look at the picture Bee posted. That is the kind of rim that Allis used on the B. You can also see where the valve stem is on that rim. The picture you posted is a loop rim which Allis never used on the B or the C.
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2011 at 11:14pm
I may have to go look at my B. I have one of those loop rims on it and it is set in. There might be different manufacturers that made these a little different??????  I think the little Farmall's used a rim like that and Ford N's used a similar 6 loop I believe.
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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DaveKamp View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DaveKamp Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2011 at 11:33pm
Yeah, I see Bee's setup, and that looks similiar to my '39B... odd thing about Bee's... is that it uses the tapered-spindle 1-nut setup... rather than the 5-bolt setup that I'd expect to see on a late '40's era B.

My '48 has 5 bolt hub, with the recessed dish (has 2 petals) and has four loops, just like what's shown in the picture I posted.  The picture I posted, is supposedly an Allis C from '48. My B's serial number is clearly a B... so what do I have here??
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CTuckerNWIL View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CTuckerNWIL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 2011 at 11:48pm
I believe Allis used the five bolt flange and wheel center on some B's but that 4 loop rim is after market. A rim like in Bee's picture will work on your wheel centers with the proper wedges and eccentric bolts and that is what would have came on your tractor.
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Lena 1935 WC12xxx, Willie 1951 CA6xx Dad bought new, 1954WD45 PS, 1960 D17 NF
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nathan (SD) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2011 at 12:21am
The C style rear wheel castings came on the B when you got the adjustable wide front axle. It was this way for all years. The one nut castings were used all the way to the end of B production with the wishbone front axle.
 
You can put the rim loops on the inside of the casting but that is as set in as you can get with those. They are not correctly designed for a B. I think the modern term is " will fit "
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 2011 at 12:37pm
Dave, That aftermarket rim comes in different widths. It looks by your picture you have a wider rim than would have been for a B. It comes down to the same mounting problem and having to buy different rims but I think the narrower four loop rim would clear the final drives. I mounted the C cast centers on my 9523 same as 5020 and used looped rims.  I have changed one to the B/C type clamps on one side and will do the same on the other side.  
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