B Overhaul

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   Good evening, I am in the process of overhauling a B that was getting water in the oil. I've gotten along great until now. We can't seem to get the engine to separate from the clutch housing. Of course I removed the 4 bolts that hold them together but my IT book says that's all you need to do to separate them. Is there anything else I need to do? Thanks for the help. Joe

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smith29 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 05 Jun 2013 Location: Victor, Iowa Points: 31	Post Options Post Reply Quote smith29 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: B Overhaul Posted: 16 May 2017 at 8:17pm
	Good evening, I am in the process of overhauling a B that was getting water in the oil. I've gotten along great until now. We can't seem to get the engine to separate from the clutch housing. Of course I removed the 4 bolts that hold them together but my IT book says that's all you need to do to separate them. Is there anything else I need to do? Thanks for the help. Joe
	Allis-Chalmers WD, WD45, 912H, B110, 1973 White Top Roto-Baler, 82T Sickle Mower, Push Mower, and several Snap-Coupler attachments

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Dick L Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5087	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dick L Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 May 2017 at 8:59pm
	That is all except for the steering arm, throttle rod, fuel line and wiring harness. Nothing on the inside that will hold it if you are not cocked to cause a bind. You could have rust on the drive shaft splines the clutch slide on when you engage the clutch pedal. Just pry it apart.

Bill Long Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Bel Air, MD Points: 4556	Post Options Post Reply Quote Bill Long Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 16 May 2017 at 9:06pm
	We sure split enough of them when we sold them. Never had a problem. As Dick L says pry it appart. I do not know the condition of the B - is it rusted a lot - which may mean that the drive shaft is rusted to the clutch. Perhaps you can remove the clutch inspection plate at the bottom of the clutch housing and spray some oil in there. May help. In any event we all wish you the best. Take good care of my favorite. Let us know how it goes. Good Luck! Bill Long

smith29 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 05 Jun 2013 Location: Victor, Iowa Points: 31	Post Options Post Reply Quote smith29 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 May 2017 at 5:50am
	Thanks for the help guys. I was hoping that there weren't any bolts coming in from the back cause there isn't really a way to get to them. Been a real easy project until now. Thanks again! Joe
	Allis-Chalmers WD, WD45, 912H, B110, 1973 White Top Roto-Baler, 82T Sickle Mower, Push Mower, and several Snap-Coupler attachments

Gerald J. Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Hamilton Co, IA Points: 5636	Post Options Post Reply Quote Gerald J. Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 17 May 2017 at 9:42am
	The I&T manual is marginal and sometimes suspect. There is a copy of an original AC shop manual on my web site at: http://www.geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/Allis-Chalmers-G-B-C-CA-Service.pdf Gerald J.

smith29 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Bronze Level Joined: 05 Jun 2013 Location: Victor, Iowa Points: 31	Post Options Post Reply Quote smith29 Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 May 2017 at 9:16am
	Thanks for all the help guys and the link Gerald J! I finally got it to come apart. We anchored the rear of the tractor to the shop floor and hooked the engine to our skid loader with a come-along to keep pressure. Drove a splitting wedge in the top and the second jar it was loose. But instead of the shaft coming apart at the clutch, it came apart in the transmission. I was then able to heat the clutch splines and finally get the shaft to let loose of the clutch. So now my question is, sliding the shaft back in the trans. Do I have to take the torque tube off to match the splines again or is it just a matter of pushing back in and finding the splines where it sets? Thanks. Joe
	Allis-Chalmers WD, WD45, 912H, B110, 1973 White Top Roto-Baler, 82T Sickle Mower, Push Mower, and several Snap-Coupler attachments

Dick L Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Orange Level Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Location: Edon Ohio Points: 5087	Post Options Post Reply Quote Dick L Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 20 May 2017 at 12:41pm
	I think I broke my torque tube last week by using my loader to remove it after I had the engine removed from the front. Here is some pictures that might help. They have to match the splines and have a cotter key. I drilled this one out and put a 5/16" grade eight bolt with a double nut. I have changed several and used a cotter key without a problem. The drive shaft splines can get damaged when not fully engaged and held with a cotter key. Here is a link to more pictures. They are not in any order. http://public.fotki.com/DickL/tractor_parts/allis-chalmer-c-dri/