B hard starting. Driving me nuts

Getting flustered. Got this b back together. Started hard by hand. Checked mag, had somewhat weak spark and was ugly so I bought a reman and put on. Carb was missing, so bought a new zenith and adjusted according to instructions. Engine/mag are in time. Adjusted valves, even swapped out rocker assembly. One I had was in better shape than what was in it. Thought it would start better with the starter. Had that rebuilt. Nope. New plugs and copper core wires.

I have had it running a few times and runs great once running. Quite sure it isn't the mag. Acted the same way with the old one. Maybe the new carb? Ideas? Gas is running out of the carb. I've tried choking/not choking. Stumped. Not a mechanic by any means, but thought I had a basic understanding until now......

'gas running out of carb'... NOT a good sign, great clue...
she's royally flooded ! I suspect a sticky needle valve or binding float( won't close). The B guys will know the specs..since it was running idle + mixture screws should be OK, but best to confirm( +- 1/2 turn is OK for starters...). maybe look for a burr or 'something' that won't allow float to shut off the gas.
I'd blow out all the accumulated gas in the manifold, pull plugs, either turn over or blast compressed air into plug holes. blow off plugs if wet.

My one D-14 will flood..even with the sediment bowl valve 'off'...so you're not alone...lotsa help here !

Jay

I was in your position once. Not a mechanic, but could do basic stuff, like change spark plugs, etc. Wanted to learn more, so got a friend of Dad's to show me the basics, and turns out if you have a mentor (like these Allis guys here) most of that stuff is really easy. Opening up a carburetor was my worst nightmare back when I was 16. All I knew (or "thought", rather) was there were a ton of tiny parts, and didn't know if I could rebuild it. Once I got it all apart, (and realizing it wasn't as complex as I thought), followed some instructions, and took photos of how everything came apart, getting it back together wasn't so hard. In fact, I really learned how a carb worked, rather than just knowing that it worked, which was satisfying. 

I had problems with a new carb as well, and didn't have the sage advice of Creston (thanks buddy, learned yet something else new from you here) to gently tap, so I took it off, separated the two halves and just diiddled with the float.

How is your compression? How did you time it?

It takes proper mix of air and fuel, compression and spark at the proper time to start and run.

To check your time you can slowly crank by hand and the instant impulse snaps and you have spark at number one plug you need to have the TDC or CENTER line in the center of the inspection hole on the compression stroke.

If you have a timing light and the tractor is running at high idle you would need to see the FIRE line in the center of the inspection hole.

I don't know what your carburetor setting instructions are but when setting your carburetor after you are running you need to first set your idle. The idle speed is set with the stop screw on the back of the carburetor at the throttle lever. The idle screw sets the fuel air mixture to cause the engine to run smooth at the speed setting. The stop screw and idle screw needs to have slight changes as you slow the engine speed.

After you have the idle screw set you then open the throttle to full speed. You then adjust the power jet to get the fastest RPM's the engine will run. At that point you turn the power jet screw in until you notice a slight slowing of the RPM's. That will give you the best setting you will get without using a dyno.

The above settings worked in the 1950's when I was instructed and it still works in the 2000's

Edited by Dick L - 15 Feb 2018 at 8:27pm

The last B I bought acted exactly as you described. Previous owner put resistor plugs in, changed them out and that cured the problem.

The shop manual should help get it started.
http://geraldj.networkiowa.com/Trees/Allis-Chalmers-G-B-C-CA-Service.pdf

A dirty air cleaner can make it act like its choked all the time. Mud dauber nests in the intake plumbing can do that too. A loose lining of the hose from air cleaner to carburetor can do that too.

Gerald J.

Have all manuals. Been though them numerous times. All intake plumbing is clear. Have been off tractor to verify.

Nick m wrote: I will. Had that laying on the bench. Didn't have the other.

The picture was an attempt in sarcasim. I pulled that tractor for over ten years with the rubber hose and the no no never in line filter as well.

You can take the carb off and blow into the gas inlet. If the air goes through needle valve is down, turn the carb upside down and do the same. If you can't blow into it the float should be working. I have been told if you have a rubber tip on the needle valve to tap it into the seat to kinda set it. Not fool proof but may help.

Understand. Hard to read facial expressions on here ;)

Nick m wrote: Understand. Hard to read facial expressions on here ;)

Oh, Nick, If you and I was face to face you would not detect in my facial expression when I was using sarcasm. Since I was in grade school I have used sarcasm as a form of self entertainment. Family taught! I learned to laugh until tears came streaming down my face without cracking a smile when people do not catch on. Sales clerks and waitresses are the most common victims. Drives Dixie crazy. She says it is mean.

Also tractor pulls in past years.

Edited by Dick L - 16 Feb 2018 at 10:30am

Dick L wrote: Nick m wrote: Understand. Hard to read facial expressions on here ;) Oh, Nick, If you and I was face to face you would not detect in my facial expression when I was using sarcasm. Since I was in grade school I have used sarcasm as a form of self entertainment. Family taught! I learned to laugh until tears came streaming down my face without cracking a smile when people do not catch on. Sales clerks and waitresses are the most common victims. Drives Dixie crazy. She says it is mean. Also tractor pulls in past years.

Oddly enough, I do the same thing. Whether right or wrong, I like to give service workers a day out of the ordinary. It gets really bad when I'm with a friend with a similar personality. Tend to embarrass our wifes while making a waitress laugh.

Pointing the rotor as you say works on a distributor. Not with a magneto. The clock spring spins before the rotor points to the terminal and then the rotor goes past the terminal. It happens quickly and if you move the rotor a tooth or so yo get it to point at the rotor at TDC the spinning of the armature would make the power after the rotor was past the terminal. Clear as mud I bet.

Dick L wrote: Pointing the rotor as you say works on a distributor. Not with a magneto. The clock spring spins before the rotor points to the terminal and then the rotor goes past the terminal. It happens quickly and if you move the rotor a tooth or so yo get it to point at the rotor at TDC the spinning of the armature would make the power after the rotor was past the terminal. Clear as mud I bet.