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B 125 Power Unit Question...

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GBACBFan View Drop Down
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    Posted: 13 Oct 2011 at 3:53pm
I have a few of these little buggers, both with an without a starter hole in the bell housing. I had an extra housing with a hole and a tractor flywheel, so I replaced the ring gear, and installed the bell housing with the starter hole to make the conversion on one of my crank start units. Everything went well, but I used a tractor starter, and there is no relief hole in the starter housing to line up with the starter hold down bolt in the PU bell housing.
 
Should I drill a relief hole/dimple in the starter for the pointed starter tightening bolt to go into to secure the starter? I'm thinkin' I should, but I'd like to confirm my thinking.
 
Any and all help is appreciated.
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Chalmersbob View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chalmersbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Oct 2011 at 9:30pm
If you used a tractor starter, what tractor is it from? The B, C and CA starters all have the locking hole in them. The hole for the tapered bolt is the only way to keep the starter in place, so if it's not there, then I guess it's best to drill one. Bob
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob(W-Md) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct 2011 at 10:01am
The B power-unit starter I have has a hole that looks like its NOT factory drilled but tapered inward.It also is stamped on that snout B PU.I tried once to put it on a B tractor and the starter switch was in the wrong possition for the starter rod.I don't know if the snout could be turned to acomadate that position,but I do remember I couldn't use it on the tractor.So I rebuilt the tractor starter.
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Dick L View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dick L Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct 2011 at 12:12pm
The CA starter switch is on top as does the later B's after the CA begain. They had a pull rod up by the throttle rather than the pig tail heal kick rod.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GBACBFan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct 2011 at 7:02pm
ChalmersBob, the starter is off of a B, and it has the locking hole in the right place for the tractor but not in the right position for the PU. (The PU bellhousing screw is in a different place) You guys are correct, the tractor starter has the switch is in the wrong position, and that would be a problem using the PU starter on a tractor. I don't care about the position on the starter switch installed on the PU. I doubt I'll ever find a PU starter, so I'm inclined to drill a relief hole in this tractor starter to try it. I'll report back on how I make out.
 
Good information, thanks for the insight.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GBACBFan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct 2011 at 8:35pm
As you can see from this pic, the tractor starter on the PU has the terminal at 4 o'clock from the rear, and the "hold bolt" on the PU is at 9 o'clock. Do I need to drill a recess in the tractor starter for the "hold bolt" if I use it on this PU? Am I missing something here?
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Edited by GBACBFan - 14 Oct 2011 at 8:37pm
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Chalmersbob View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chalmersbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct 2011 at 9:00pm
Take the srarter apart and turn it 1/2 turn and the terminal will be at the 10 o clock position. Bob
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GBACBFan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2011 at 7:52am
That's a good thought to get the terminal at the top, Bob, thank you. I think I'll still need to drill the recess hole in the starter for the PU position of the set screw. I guess that's not the worst thing in the world.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bob(W-Md) Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2011 at 7:17pm
Here is the B Power Unit starter. Note the hole is kind of oblonged not looking factory, but it tapers inward to accept the pointed set screw.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chris/CT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2011 at 7:26pm
I recognize that bellhousing, glad it may getting some use!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chalmersbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2011 at 8:30pm
If you look at a starter on the early B, with the switch on the bottom, the switch is 1/4 turn from the screw which is on the right side. Your power unit has the screw on the left side so if you install a B starter the switch would be at the top, not where your is, which is 1/2 way around from the bolt. Ihad that same power unit and installed a B starter with no issues. Bob
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GBACBFan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2011 at 9:33pm
Bob(W-Md) Thanks for the PU starter pic. That helps me understand.
 
Chris, you are correct, you should recognize that piece. It even has your weight marking written on the side!
 
Chalmersbob, You are exactly right in what your saying as far as orientation. I've been trying to keep the starter nose cone shroud directly opposite the ring gear as in Bob(W-Md)'s pic, and that's what's throwing me off. That part of the orientation is different on a tractor vs the PU. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Chalmersbob Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2011 at 9:40pm
You are correct. I don't remember drilling a hole in the nose cone to get it to align with the ring gear. I guess that is your only choice to get it right. Bob
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MNLonnie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 2011 at 9:49pm
Larry your PM inbox is full.
Waukesha B, B, IB, G, styled WF, D15, 615 backhoe, 2-Oliver OC3's, 6 Ford Model T's, 3 Model A Fords, AV8 Coupe, AV8 Roadster, 1933 Ford Wrecker
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