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Darwin W. Kurtz 
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 Topic: Anyone have any secrets that make sprockets on cha
Posted: 17 Dec 2022 at 8:04pm |
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I'm not having good luck with chain saws, Ive cut 2 loads of wood and my saw sprocket is getting chewed up starting to get grooves in it. I've seen posts that people get these to last several years......is that possible and how to do it?
I was running the chain just snug and it's been staying tight, not having to do much adjustment.
Thanks in advance for help!
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shameless dude
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Posted: 17 Dec 2022 at 9:02pm |
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i THINK I'VE ONLY REPLACED 2 (oooops....sorry for yelling) sprockets on different saws in my life. and they've cut many semi loads of firewood along with other tree cutting. as soon as I see the chain drooping i stop and adjust it as I don't want the chain coming off the bar, nor the chain getting stuck in the wood. I don't know if that has anything to do with it or not. where are you buying your sprockets?? I'm sure they have been cheapened up thru the years, prolly made in china now. I would order your next sprocket thru Oregan.com (spelling)
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DiyDave
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Posted: 17 Dec 2022 at 9:06pm |
If your sprocket is wearing that fast and you're not cutting dry locust, or osage orange, Check that the oiler is functioning... 
Edited by DiyDave - 17 Dec 2022 at 9:06pm
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Jim.ME
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Posted: 18 Dec 2022 at 6:10am |
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Also, make sure you are getting sprockets that match the chain you are running on the saw, they are not all the same.
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Dave H
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Posted: 18 Dec 2022 at 6:45am |
I would pay less attention to the sproket and let her rip. 
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Darwin W. Kurtz
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Posted: 18 Dec 2022 at 7:43am |
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I cut mostly dry locust......does that make a big difference?
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Darwin W. Kurtz
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Posted: 18 Dec 2022 at 8:00am |
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Also my sprocket is the spur drive kind, looks like cheap metal
Should I invest in a saw with the other kind of sprocket?
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 18 Dec 2022 at 8:43am |
 Darwin W. Kurtz wrote:
I cut mostly dry locust......does that make a big difference? |
I wouldn't know dry locust from wet locust or even moist locust  I've been running chain saws since 1970 here in Idaho cutting nothing but softwoods so my experience is quite different, but I grew up logging with my Dad and still cut many cords of firewood each year. That said, my sprockets (Stihl) last for YEARS; I can wear out a 24" bar (which takes years) and not need to change the sprocket.
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DaveKamp
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Posted: 18 Dec 2022 at 10:02am |
Expensive saws use hardened replaceable sprockets, regardless of the type, they last longer.
An inoperative oiler will accellerate wear, but you'll have other, more obvious symptoms if that's happening.
The type of wood you're cutting, and the moisture content, will certainly have an impact on chain load.
Debris IN the wood... meaning dirt... will SERIOUSLY erode a blade, bar, and sprocket. When cutting up a tree, I always cut the top portions up FIRST, and leave the trunk for last, as the trunk section is always full of embedded dirt. Wind blows dirt into the bark, which overgrows, then seals the grit in, one ring-at-a-time, leaving you with basically an abrasive de-sharpening log just like putting the bar into the dirt.
BTW... if you're cutting, and touch the dirt with your bar, it's immediately dulled. Pull off the chain, clean off the sprocket, and put a fresh chain on and continue, then take the dirt-chain back, rinse it out with solvent, and resharpen it, your chains, bar, and sprockets will last much longer, and your saw will cut much better.
Locust is awesome hard stuff, it really resists rot, and challenges any sawmill and chainsaw... only thing like it that I've cut, is Osage Orange ('hedge'), and it makes great tool handles. Carbide tooth chains are very expensive, but if you're cutting lots of hardwoods, they really help.
Also- you didn't mention what make and model saw you're using, but there's many different types of chains- there's 0.043, 0.050, 0.058 and 0.063 gauge (width of the drive spurs that pass through the bar groove), and several different pitch sizes (distance between link centers). If you're running a blade that isn't correct for the sprocket (it is possible), then it'll chew heck out'a both sprocket and chain.
Edited by DaveKamp - 18 Dec 2022 at 10:12am
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Les Kerf
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Posted: 18 Dec 2022 at 10:14am |
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Mount St. Helens blew her top shortly after I got out of the Marines in 1980, I worked in the woods all summer as a sawyer; we wore out some saw chains, bars, and sprockets that year for sure! Every time you dropped a tree there was a huge POOF of volcanic ash when it hit the ground. That ash is quite abrasive. Lots of logging equipment lost engines that year due to inadequate maintenance of air filters, you really had to stay on top of it.
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Darwin W. Kurtz
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Posted: 18 Dec 2022 at 10:15am |
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This is a Craftsman saw and I'm using a chain that I bought when I bought the saw
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DaveKamp
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Posted: 18 Dec 2022 at 11:34am |
Ah.
Well, OLDER Craftsman saws were often products by Huskvarna, but most everything since 2017 is from China, imported by MTD.
My guess is that you have one of the newer saws, and betting that the sprocket is very soft. If you're doing any significant cutting, I'd recommend moving up to a professional grade saw, get several extra chains and a sharpening kit.
Also:
Always either run out all the fuel, or dump it out when you're done. Always use fresh gas, I recommend no ethanol (it is incredibly hygroscopic, and attacks the carbeurator's zinc/aluminum die castings) and high quality 2-stroke oil.
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Dakota Dave
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Posted: 18 Dec 2022 at 1:17pm |
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only time I’ve had a sprocket were out fast it had a 3/8 pitch chain and a.325 pitch sprocket came from the manufacturer that way. A new Oregon sprocket and chain fixed my problems. Been running the same one for years now. We’ve had a couple craftsman electric saws at the farm had to replace the sprocket on one of them. The sprockets were cheep to replace, just buy the correct tool they were $5 on Amazon it’s less than a minute to change when you have the correct sprocket socket and piston stop.
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Robert Musgrave
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Posted: 18 Dec 2022 at 1:36pm |
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Reversing the bar (if it is symetrical with a sprocket nose) and deburring the rails will help as will proper chain tension. As the chain works and heats up, it will stretch and as cutting continues, it will need to be re-tensioned. At the end of the day, as the chain cools and contracts, the bar should be loosened to compensate for the chain cooling. Also greasing the sprocket at the end of the day, will drive out moisture and tree sap and set things up for the next use. Inspection of bar rails and periodic "de-burring " with a file will also help extend bar life. R. Musgrave
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klinemar
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Posted: 18 Dec 2022 at 7:29pm |
I'm not familiar with what type of sprocket Craftsman saws use. Most of my saws use a rim sprocket which is reversible. A rim style sprocket normally you just replace the rim and keep the drive sprocket. I very seldom replace either. Here is a link to Oregon Rim Sprockets. https://cspforestry.com/products/oregon-power-mate-rim-sprockets
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HudCo
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Posted: 19 Dec 2022 at 10:05am |
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i was just going to ask if it had a 325 on a 3/8 low or vise a versa your local small engine shop should be able to identify your chain ,bar and sprocket . the bar should have the spec.s stamped in one side. its hard to get the right chain at the hardware stores most of your smallengine shops can make the chains for you or they can order in the right pre made loop
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Ed (Ont)
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Posted: 19 Dec 2022 at 5:29pm |
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Those usually last a long time but the rim type are even better than the spur type. I have both here on old Pioneer chain saws and have never replaced one. But the spur type does get a fairly deep groove in it. As the others said make you have the matching chain and sprocket combo. Can you post pic of the sprocket?
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Dakota Dave
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Posted: 19 Dec 2022 at 6:25pm |
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all the craftsman saws OI've seen had spur sprockets. usualy only comercial saws have rim drive. the spur drive are cheep to replace. the rim drivrs are real nice whe your wanting to change chains. and are easy to revers and get longer life.
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DaveKamp
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Posted: 19 Dec 2022 at 6:47pm |
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My two most common observations of 'department store' grade saws is that the sprockets aren't hardened, and the crankcases are plastic. Once a brand has either of those two characteristics integrated into their product offering, the performance and lifespan are pretty much sealed.
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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Darwin W. Kurtz
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Posted: 19 Dec 2022 at 8:45pm |
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One of the posts said the spur sprocket is easy and cheap to replace.......where do you get this certain tool and the piston stop thing......
also on my say there is the clutch thing with all the springs in it on the outside of the sprocket......how does all that mess come off there, I'm guessing difficult to do yourself?
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DiyDave
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Posted: 20 Dec 2022 at 5:02am |
If I remember right the tool is merely a two titted spanner wrench(adjustable pin spanner wrench). Again, IIRR, the clutch assembly wrench is a left hand thread, so righty loosey! HTH!
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Ed (Ont)
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Posted: 20 Dec 2022 at 8:24pm |
I hold the spur gear with left hand and rattle it off with a 3/8 Snap On battery operated gun. 2 sec. Install the same way but change direction of gun. Lol. No need to torque.just rattle the gun for a sec. 
Edited by Ed (Ont) - 20 Dec 2022 at 8:28pm
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Darwin W. Kurtz
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Posted: 20 Dec 2022 at 8:31pm |
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where do you order sprockets? Is it possible to upgrade to one better than the original
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Ed (Ont)
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Posted: 20 Dec 2022 at 8:55pm |
We have a place called Laser sales inc. here in Canada. They have all kinds of chain saw parts. Pretty good outfit. Check them online. Hopefully they ship to US. Great exchange for you guys so win win deal. See if you can update to rim type sprocket. They are in London, Ont.
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klinemar
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Posted: 21 Dec 2022 at 7:55am |
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ac fleet
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Posted: 21 Dec 2022 at 11:54pm |
ebay and amazon has sellers. anything you get will be made in chimna! Check the oil volume output,---bet its very low!
You can convert most saws to standard sprockets if you want to go that route, so that may be another option for you. dry locust will take out a new sthil saw too so dont be too hasty about going that route! Work with what you have as long as it is running,--and yes I do use sthil saws too along with a half dozen other brands! I used to cut dead locust with a Homelite SXLAO with a 20 inch bar. never had any sprocket problems on it and it had the manual oiler as well as the auto oiler, so I still think you have an oiler problem on your saw!
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Dakota Dave
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Posted: 22 Dec 2022 at 7:14pm |
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I have ordered a couple from Amazon. Got the tools from the same place. The tool unscrews the clutch from the end of the crank. The springs and clutch shoes stay attached then the spur gear and clutch drum slide off the crank. Put a little grease in the new one it’ll have new bearings in it. If you don’t have a piston stop an impact works so does stuffing a rope in the spark plug hole.make sure you have the same pitch sprocket as the bar and chain.
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Darwin W. Kurtz
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Posted: 22 Dec 2022 at 8:53pm |
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So if i'm understanding, that clutch spring assembly comes off and goes back on as 1 piece and doesn't have to totally dis assembled?
how do i figure out what pitch sprocket and chain to order? i know whatever i have are originals
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Ed (Ont)
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Posted: 22 Dec 2022 at 9:30pm |
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Darwin - yes to your first question. Second question I do not have an answer to. I guess start with a visual check and then do some measuring as well. I have some old manuals that talk about saw chain a bit. Let me look at those.
Edited by Ed (Ont) - 24 Dec 2022 at 8:04am
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DaveKamp
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Posted: 24 Dec 2022 at 10:22am |
ac fleet wrote:
dry locust will take out a new sthil saw too so dont be too hasty about going that route! Work with what you have as long as it is running,--and yes I do use sthil saws too along with a half dozen other brands! |
I don't know why you'd say it'd take out ANY PARTICULAR brand of new saw... I know guys that are so ignorant of chainsaws that they'll destroy ANY saw, of ANY manufacturer, within just a few minutes... it isn't the TREE that's the saw's greatest problem. ;-)
The proper way to remove the clutch or sprocket (if it's necessary to do so), is to 'stuff the cylinder', either with a tool (a plastic ball on a plastic stick that 'just fits' through the plug hole) or stuff a couple inches of rope in there with a pair of hemostats or needle-nose, then use the 1/4" impact as noted.
I think the biggest issue you'll run into, is finding a replacement sprocket. If it's an imported saw, the best possible option, is finding an aftermarket (prounounced "Oregon") sprocket, rather than a generic import, as the former will be properly heat-treated, the latter will be much less likely so.
In order to find out what chain type, the best thing to do, is take the saw, bar, chain, etc., to someone who works on lots of saws, and they'll identify it by sight. You can measure the thickness of the bar's groove (feeler gauges), or the width of the drive tabs (probably 0.043 or 0.050 with caliper or micrometer), and the spacing between links (probably 3/8"), then count the number of links in the chain to get a clear picture of what you have.
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Ten Amendments, Ten Commandments, and one Golden Rule solve most every problem. Citrus hand-cleaner with Pumice does the rest.
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