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Any suggestions on setting the combine? |
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bakwoodsfarm ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 02 Sep 2010 Location: Woodleaf,NC Points: 511 |
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Anybody having to deal with pigweed as bad as I am this year? Any suggestions on little tweaks that will make it flow a little better? I have already raised the feeder beater all the way up, opened up the cylinder to 5/8", upped the speed to 700rpm, pulled the auger back as far as it will go on the head, upped the speed on the reel. It does ok but will still get a pile under the beater behind the cylinder and above the throat raddle. It is a L3 with wide spaced bars and 322 head
Thanks, Brad |
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21499 |
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25 tooth sprocket on the left end of the cylinder speeds up that beater. A must in tough soybeans.
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bakwoodsfarm ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 02 Sep 2010 Location: Woodleaf,NC Points: 511 |
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you have one? I need to try everything I can
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21499 |
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Any AGCO Gleaner dealer should be able to get you one. 18 teeth was std and 25 teeth was available.
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bakwoodsfarm ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 02 Sep 2010 Location: Woodleaf,NC Points: 511 |
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Didn't see the option on the parts book, just the 18 tooth. You have a number?
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21499 |
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71132389 is the 25 tooth sprocket.
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bakwoodsfarm ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 02 Sep 2010 Location: Woodleaf,NC Points: 511 |
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Thanks Doc. Any more suggestions
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MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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If beater behind cylinder is plugging, lower cylinder. Make sure cylinder belt is not slipping. Have you kept drive pulley greased on main drive shaft? MACK
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Adam Stratton ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 11 Sep 2009 Location: SW MO Points: 1363 |
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Are yours as trashy as mine if you ever get them through? Im only running 20' heads and not keeping it full at that. I've got the open screen type doors on the clean grain elevator, took the panels out of the bottom of the shoe, and have about wore out the ladder setting and reseting the seives and either end up with fine seed or sticks in the bin or I run beans over the back. I'm looking forward to a freeze!
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bakwoodsfarm ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 02 Sep 2010 Location: Woodleaf,NC Points: 511 |
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Mack, I'll lower it down a little more. Usually run it at 1/4 but plugged it up solid 3 times in 50ft and burnt the cylinder belt off. I keep everything greased like I should.
Adam, I've had this combine for 4 years and this is the SLOWEST IT HAS EVER BEEN!!!!!!!!!!!! |
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21499 |
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Many of those combines have an option called the "concave extension". It is a hay rake looking thing that extends rearward from the concave, and somewhat covers the thresher raddle. It is supposed to keep straw from back feeding down the backside of the thresher raddle. I had one occasion where the Customer was wrapping and plugging the thresher beater. He had the 25 tooth speed-up sprocket. He had good wide-tooth cylinder bars. Everything should have worked, but his straw conditions were terrible in this one field of soybeans. I walked alongside and watched what was happening, and finally removed the concave extension. His problem never bothered again. Something to consider. Also, be sure to tie up the steel curtain above the separator raddle, or better yet remove it.
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Steve Bright ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 14 Sep 2009 Location: Martinsville, I Points: 2104 |
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Sounds to me like your cylinder bars are worn, Or the concave bar is bad, won't grab and feed it through
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Lonn ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 16 Sep 2009 Location: Назарово,Russia Points: 29792 |
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Zero your cylinder clearance so your side gauges are correct then run at 1/4". Also shim the springs or get new springs for the feeder beater slip clutch ahead of the cylinder.Zeroing the cylinder did wonders for my L2 in tough very green soybeans. Like Steve said bars and concave must be in good shape. No rounded edges on the bars.
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Wink I am a Russian Bot |
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bakwoodsfarm ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 02 Sep 2010 Location: Woodleaf,NC Points: 511 |
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Doc, that concave extension is where the piles are staying. Sounds like it will help if it is removed, that way the pile can get carried on out by the thresher raddle. Now do I need to go back to the 18 tooth sprocket to cut wheat? Can I leave the concave extension out for good?
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DrAllis ![]() Orange Level Access ![]() Joined: 12 Sep 2009 Points: 21499 |
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Probably should change back to 18 tooth if you have very many acres of wheat. As it is, the speed is 1 to 1 with the cylinder. 25 tooth really winds that beater up when the cylinder is at 1,000 RPM. Suit yourself on the concave extension.
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bakwoodsfarm ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 02 Sep 2010 Location: Woodleaf,NC Points: 511 |
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Also need the part number for the header hook on the head that goes into the throat for the quick attach.
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Jwmac7060 ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 04 Jan 2014 Location: Indiana Points: 929 |
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Beans have all been tough as hell this year...don't matter if you have 15 ft or 30ft bout 2mph is all we've been able to run..neighbors are all having the same problem don't matter what color your combine is.
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bakwoodsfarm ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 02 Sep 2010 Location: Woodleaf,NC Points: 511 |
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Now just have to figure out how to fit my big butt through that small door to get the extension out!!!!!
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MACK ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 17 Nov 2009 Points: 7664 |
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I for sure would go back to 18 tooth sprocket for wheat. Have saw that beater come apart from over speed, not pretty. MACK
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tomNE ![]() Orange Level ![]() ![]() Joined: 13 Sep 2009 Location: dorchester, ne Points: 1225 |
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beat sure to hang the feeder beater door behind the feeder beater. 25 tooth sprocket is a must. i just swung the door toward the back. found a bolt hole. ran a nut on like a 4-5in bolt. bolt. installed it from inside out. tightened the nut from the outside. that let the stems fly away from the beater, instead of hitting the beater and bunching up and causing a slug.
the door just drops on the bolt and doesn't allow it to swing forward. proly 20 different ways to do it, the bolt worked ez for me. i believe it was a 1/4bolt.
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AC from the start of my families farming career till the end!
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bakwoodsfarm ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 02 Sep 2010 Location: Woodleaf,NC Points: 511 |
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its 2 3/8 bolts that hold the beater door, I move it every year, down for wheat and up for beans and corn. Thanks Mack that's what I thought would happen, They don't look like they would hold up to high speed very well.
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bakwoodsfarm ![]() Orange Level ![]() Joined: 02 Sep 2010 Location: Woodleaf,NC Points: 511 |
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I got the concave extension out today, and BOY DOES IT HELP!!! It made a beast out of the old L3. No more plugging!!! Ordered the 25 tooth sprocket and it will be here Monday.
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