1951 AC B - Any idea what model this is?

Having never used a tractor, I'm quite unfamiliar with which pedals and levers are which. For the time being, if I'm going to move this thing, I figure I should know how to operate the brakes. Is that pedal controlled? If I recall, there was one pedal on the left and 2 on the right.

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HTH

Looks like it has a starter as I can see the starter bulge on the bellhousing in the last two pics.  You could use a battery and jumper cables to start it or one of those booster packs.

The starter is a 6 volt, but will handle a 12 volt boot for a while.  It's obviously been used with 12 volts for a while as it has been fitted with an alternator.

Good luck with at and have fun.  I have 3 of those 'B's.  Great little tractor and still capable of a good amount of work.

Good Luck,

Dusty 

yep, that's a B.  Alternator means it's been updated, probably to 12v negative ground, and a 12v battery will whip that engine into action in a heartbeat.

Magneto means it'll hand start with a dead battery.

Front end loader means you will stay younger, longer, and stronger.  No power steering means that when the bucket is full, you'll need to be rolling either forward or backward to turn the wheel. 

Tractor brakes... on 'serious' tractors, have two pedals- one for each wheel.  Usually, you'll only use brakes for steering tight, or to make forward progress when one wheel is slipping massively.  A spinning tire needs only a little brake pressure to pull it's partner into operation.  You might stomp on both brakes in the event that you need to stop, but most of the time, to slow down, just reduce the throttle.

Since this is a B, you'll find that any other tractor of similar size and weight, will be a sissy... that's normal, because the B was an extremely powerful machine in comparison to it's competition.  You'll also find that it's rather tedious to climb up onto when you're walking with a catch in your giddyup... but once in position, you'll be okay.  The seating position might seem a little odd at first, but operate a WC or WD for a while, and you'll really enjoy the B.

The bolts on the sides of the bellhousing are there to hold spare washers, just in case you'll need them.  One of those bolts is an extremely rare, and commensurately expensive one, as it is wearing green paint.  Green paint on tractors is ghastly expensive, and reserved only for those who bleed money.  Because of the green paint on that bolt, it is automatically rated to five times' normal strength, and it's replacement cost is ten times' that of an ordinary fastener.  I suggest you carefully remove, clean, and put that one on Ebay, and replace it, and the washer, with a plain Grade 5 fastener, and torque it to zero inch-pounds with first finger and thumb, and put the difference in a long-term investment.

The two most expensive parts of an antique tractor restoration (regardless of the intended use) are engine and tires.  If yours has bad tires, put good rubber and a good set of rims on it all the way around at your first fiscal opportunity.

as for making it run, put the crank in it, and turn it by hand a few turns, just to see how it feels.  If it turns over with consistent feel, then you've got a really good chance that it'll start up without any effort.  Open the radiator cap for a look.  See coolant?  That's a good thing.  Pull the dipstick... Is there oil?  A little low wouldn't be surprising... but if the oil level is HIGHER than the FULL mark, then pull the pan plug, drain it, and observe for water or coolant running out with the oil.

Grab a spare sparkplug, pull off one of the plug leads, connect the spare, and set it on the engine somewhere within sight of the crank.  Open up the magneto grounding switch (that's the wire coming off side of the magneto going to one of the switches on the small console)... and pull the crank past TDC four times.  ONE of those times, you SHOULD see a nice, white hot, snappy spark when the magneto coupler goes CLACK.  If not, move the kill switch to the other position and repeat.  If you have consistent compression and a hot spark, spray a shot of something flammable into the carb throat (you'll hafta pull off the air cleaner boot) and pull the hand crank a few times, see if it'll pop and vroom for a moment. 

Under the steering wheel, small looped handle on right by throttle is the choke.  Loopy pedal-thing under your foot is the starter switch... press it, and the battery energizes the starter motor, cranking the engine.  Doesn't matter if the magneto is on, or not, the engine will crank.

Once you have that, it's time to clean out the fuel tank and sediment bowl.  That picture shows yours as being deep reddish brown, so it's nasty.  The fuel filter is probably there for a reason... so you'll be cleaning it a bit.  If it were me, I'd nix that extra filter, replace the hoses (eventually, replace them with proper metal lines) and unthread the sediment bowl from the tank to get it ALL rinsed really well.  I'd probably also drop the carb bowl and clean out any crud in there, and on the carbeurator fuel inlet, unthread that fitting and clean out the little catch-screen in the fitting (if there IS one).  After that, add a little fresh fuel, make sure the carb bowl fills (and hopefully, doesn't overflow), and then fire it up.

Left hand pedal is the engine clutch. 

There's a small looped-end lever down there... controls the Power Takeoff.  You'll probably need to press the foot clutch in, and lift this lever to engage the power takeoff, in order to make the hydraulic pump operate.  You'll know when PTO is engaged, because the PTO shaft under the seat will start spinning.  Keep your trousers away from it.

Lever with loop to the right of your right leg is the hydraulic control valve.  With engine running, and clutch released (but leave trans in neutral for testing), lift the lever... after a moment or three, the bucket should start to raise.  Move lever to middle, it should hold.  Down should drop it.

Bit lever up on the loader arm releases the bucket.  it's a 'trip bucket'... that means gravity makes it dump.  To reset it, lower bucket to the ground, and back up... bucket will roll to horizontal position, and the trip latch SHOULD reset.  Oil and cussing may be required to make it operate well.

Additions or subtractions in red...