Another 190XT no start

This time not necessarily a request for advice but rather what I've been dealing. Feel free to pitch in though.
This tractor is new to me and always started great till just a week ago then yesterday no start no smoke. There is no primer on this tractor so I disconnected the fuel at the injector pump and had almost no flow. Went to the inlet side of the fuel filter, again almost no flow. Back to the sediment bowls

Screens are clogged. This stuff is gooey and sticky like uncredited gasket sealer. Presumably bio diesel crud. Anyway, got it all cleaned up.

Decided to drain the tank completely as the fuel left in there is cloudy

I poured some gas in the tank to act as a solvent to cut the crud as that appears similar to molasses. I clanped a brush on a stick to scrub some. Obviously I can't get all of it due to the baffle but some is better than none. I now have 10 gallons fresh diesel, clean sediment bowls and new filter. Have good flow out the sediment bowls but not so much from line itself. I did get the tractor to start and run briefly but I think there is still a restriction in the supply line. Ran out of time yesterday and this is an outdoor project with rain today's so will have to wait some.
Thanks for looking

Clean up fuel system as best as you can and treat fresh fuel with bio kleen.  Sounds like algae

I would unscrew the sediment bowls from the tank and insert about a 2" long roll pin in the middle of the bowls to stick up in the tank - this will prevent a 'sink stopper' effect if a rust flake occurs. The slot in the roll pin will allow the tank to drain .  A stand pipe will never let the tank drain and the results are not pretty. With today's fuel and algae, I would vote no on the screens. The main reason is they are so hard to get to at 70 years of age... the fuel filter is not.   

Screens are out. At present, I am not able to get fuel through the injector pump to the injectors. Have loosened 3 lines at the injectors. Nothing so far but now also fighting an intermittent starter solenoid and maintaining battery charge. To think, all I wanted to do was try to isolate a buzzing hydraulic line from the pump tooil cooler

An update
Apparently this tractor has had a combine engine swap according to someone looking it over at the consignment auction where I got this.
There are electrical gremlins under the dash of this thing. The start button is good, the safety switch is good, power to the starting system is sketchy. I can bypass all that and jump across the starter solenoid and starter works as should. All safety should be observed when using this method
It does not have a fuel primer pump so I put an electric pump in to compensate.
I also removed the fill cap and fuel level sender and stuck a swab on a stick to scrub the inside of the tank as best I could with gasoline. Replaced the cap and sender, sediment bowls minus the screens and a new fuel filter. The electric pump is downstream of the spin on fuel filter so it will draw clean fuel. Still unable to push fuel through the injection pump. This was last year yet. At Hutch last year I picked up a primer pump from one of the vendors and hard piped it to the filter base outlet. Shortened the line to the Roosa DM. Removed the end cap from the Roosa and cleaned that inlet screen. Loosened two lines on the pump outlet and four lines at the injectors.
With my accountant operating the starter I worked the hand primer and got fuel to move through all the loosened injector lines. Tightened up all the lines and got her to run finally. At first it tried to run away so shut off the fuel immediately. It restarted and settled down to a normal idle. I drove it around a while to get the engine warm. The throttle response is a little sluggish. That was two days ago. Gonna check on her again tonight to see how it goes.
Thought you’d like to know

Tried it again tonight
No fire, no smoke, no joy
I did find the fuel supply line to the injector pump was loose. May not be out of the woods yet

Very common for the Roosa DB pumps to have the plungers stick when they sit in this crappy modern fuel we have. Tractors that sit must have as low a bio content as possible, most fuel suppliers offer a premium diesel, and it is worth the higher price!

There should be a disclaimer with every sale of biodeisel. "Warning-do NOT let vehicle/equipment set for extended periods when using this product."  It's like recap tires. Cheaper initial cost but risk of damage outweighs savings. Left 1/2 tank in F2 one winter and rusted the crap out of fuel tank. I burn it all the time in my road truck but it doesn't set around. Some farms use it through busy season but switch to straight diesel near end to clean out systems for over winter. (hassel) I don't know if soy oil biodiesel causes trouble but there's alot of bio that isn't soy based. I don't chance it with farm equipment. Straight diesel only. Does it really cost more in the end?

FWIW, the problem began with the fuel that was in the tractor when I bought it. I never gave it a thought then cuz it ran well for a couple months with little use. It literally ran when parked then this after a week of sitting. All of the existing fuel has been drained, cleaned, flushed and the fuel filter replaced. I believe what I am dealing with now is a sticky residue left in the pump.
I do not use bio diesel from any convenience store outlet. Rather I have fuel delivered from the local ag supplier and believe there is no bio in it.